Thread: Making Bronze bushes

Hi Simon,

I'm confused

Why cant you chuck with 250mm sticking out. Support with a live center, turn to size*, fit fixed steady, bore to size, cut off in bandsaw?

Are you saying your fixed steady cant be used 220mm from the chuck?

Stuart

*depending on sizes I might just turn a witness then fit the steady and turn a new center, remove steady turn to size.. but you get the idea.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Simon,

I'm confused

Why cant you chuck with 250mm sticking out. Support with a live center, turn to size*, fit fixed steady, bore to size, cut off in bandsaw?

Are you saying your fixed steady cant be used 220mm from the chuck?

Stuart

*depending on sizes I might just turn a witness then fit the steady and turn a new center, remove steady turn to size.. but you get the idea.

It's hollow so will need a pipe centre.

Hi Simon, you could make a plug with a shoulder and a centre hole to fit in the end of your hollow bronze and then use your tail stock centre into that.

shed

You could also use what I think industry calls a cathead...

http://www.angelfire.com/d20/lathework/page12.htm

Originally Posted by simonl

Hi all,

One thing that I struggle with (and it annoyes me that I struggle given the simplicity of the task) is using bronze hollow bar to make bushes. I usually buy it in 12" (300mm) lengths from the scrap metal place when a favorable size catches my eye.

Question is, how do you maximise the use of a 300mm length of bar without cutting to size before turning down? I mean, if you chuck it with 250mm hanging out it's no good, you can't turn between centres and a fixed/travelling steady is still too close to the chuck. Once the outside is turned to the required OD you can at least cut off with a bandsaw (or whatever) and then put in the 3 jaw (4 jaw if accurate concentricity is vital) but what system do people use to turn down the OD from a length of stock without cutting extra (80mm piece to make a 30mm brush) for the chuck? There must be a simple method that people use that escapes me.

Oh BTW, I am talking about a bronze bar that's maybe 40mm in diameter.

Cheers

Simon

Get a lathe with a 40mm or bigger spindle bore. Problem solved.

Or as people have said, support the outer end with your choice of techniques. Live centre or pipe centre works for me.

PDW

Originally Posted by .RC.

You could also use what I think industry calls a cathead...

http://www.angelfire.com/d20/lathework/page12.htm

Got to make me one of those!(if I make one I'll never need one right? )
I made one for the spindle but that could come in handy!

Stuart

Wow, you guys are quick!

Hi Stuart,

Well I was about to say that my steady is no good so close to the chuck because of the gap bed. The TS V ways finish when the gap starts which is what the fixed steady clamps on. I thought I better go have a better look and bugger me, the fixed steady would have solved most of my problems! How silly of me! I should have tried it in the first instance.

Once the bar gets used up to the steady then a pipe centre would help.

Thanks Pete, Shed and RC.

I cathead? Never heard or seen that before. Another piece of info to store in my peanut brain!

Simon

If your bar is hollow, why not turn a pipe centre to fit the live centre. TWID. That's What I've Done

Originally Posted by PDW

Get a lathe with a 40mm or bigger spindle bore. Problem solved.

Or as people have said, support the outer end with your choice of techniques. Live centre or pipe centre works for me.

PDW

Buy a bigger lathe. Thanks PDW, what would I do without you?

Thanks KB, I think that's a good idea.

Originally Posted by simonl

Once the bar gets used up to the steady then a pipe centre would help.

Once you get that close, put the four jaw on and you'll likely be close enough not to need the steady.
You should also have at least of 120 of wiggle room in the chuck.

Stuart

Yep. You're right.

Thanks