Thread: Brown & Sharpe #2 grinder restoration

Thank you very nuch Lex, that helped me tremendously!
In the intervening time, this has been bugging me enough to go and do some checks:
I undid the vertical jack screw (which moves the spindle block up and down) and found that for all intents and purposes the head was 'locked' tight. I could not budge it. So I took the drive motor off and the rear plate which hold everyting tight and in position (see my earlier photos of the spindle motor conversion). I then clamped the spindle block with some large clamps to ensure the original location in the box slide ways, and put a straight edge across the ways. THe rear plate had in fact no play at all, maybe was even sprung a bit - on the tight side! If that makes any sense.
So I cut some 2 thou shims and put it all back togethe. WIthout the jack screw I still can't move the spindle up or down with reasonable force, so it certainly is still tight.
Once the spindle motor was back on, I reconnected the electric jack drive again and 'voila'! It worked! THe mittle motor draws around 5A going down and a bit over 6A on the way up. I discovered a tighter spot near the very top, where it draws nearly 7A just before the spindle hits the top limit. I can live with that. The spindle is now MUCH easier to wind by hand too! I'm guessing its still a bit more than yours, Lex, but no longer a chore.
So tomorrow I'll clean up the motor moutn and paint it and wire up a DPDT momentary switch I found I had with the right current rating, all my puch button switches had too low a rating. This switch will easily fit in the column dust cover and will be quite unobtrusive - and keep all the 24V wiring short.
I'll take more photos when its all finished.

I read all the discussion about grinding methods with great interest too! My spindle motor is 1Hp and will at a pinch grind a couple of thou if the table is moved laterally slowly. I was amazed at how much power surface grinding actually takes, I must admit. My wheels are only 1/2" wide and I'm no longer surprised and the large motors on wider wheeled grinders. I'll try the 'creep feed' deeper grinding method one day, see what that does to the wheel and the finish.

I think the next project will be cooling though, dry grinding makes an amazing mess!

Well, it was 'cutting and splitting firewood' day at the Hovels' hovel today .... but I managed to sneak off into the shed for a couple of hours
I made a bit of progress on building the spark guards and towards the splash guards for coolant use.

IMAG1327.jpg

I also figured out how to fit the coolant tank and pump on the side of the base removably (for easier cleaning out). Will make a start on cleaning up and painting the coolant setup as I go, and make the mounting frame for it.
I think I have decided to use another 24V DC motor for the in-out feed (Y-axis) as I can see an obvious way of mounting that and I have the bits to do so. After the vertical motor installation and tests, I think these motors are up to the task of driving the saddle.
I've also reassembled the 3-phase gear motor (after digging out and connecting the star point a little while ago) and tested it on the designated VFD. It is a 2-pole motor and perfectly happy to run at 175Hz! Just for a test mind you. This motor will be driving the table left and right under limit switch control. I expect it not to run above 50 or 60Hz ever. I'll have to find or make two gears to fit that in and have the handwheel selectively isolated from the the drive. I'll dig around my 'useful box' and see if I got something that fits, if not I'll make them on the shaper....

I really like he clear guard Joe, much easier than a solid one to work with.

I have spent a fare bit of time today finishing my sine plate. I have tried grinding with 2/3 step over and 1-2 thou feed. It has worked well, the only thing is it seems to show up poor dressing more than the smaller step over. What I don't know is how fast my table travel should be. Having 8 (from memory) hp means there is not really any signs of "slow down this is too much"

Ew

Looking good Joe!

I like the clear perspex guard too, not that I have any experience with SG, but I like it none the less!
I've been keeping my eye out for SG too. After seeing yours I got SG envy!

Wood cutting day eh? That must be quite relaxing, especially when using that machine you have, the trees must really cringe when you fire that up!

Simon

Joe, I wanted to thank you publicly for ringing the other day and getting me back on the forum. I am very impressed with your restoration of this machine. It is also gratifying, as a foster parent of this machine, to see that it found a very good home.

Best,

Greg

Well Greg, with a great project like that thanks to your generousity, how could I not include you in the loop somehow. Phoning you was the obvious option - and I'm glad you had a look at the progress - and the forum in general.
Welcome back!

Well, it's been a while - of distractions, contemplation and other 'interim projects' - but progress is being made:
I've completed the guards for the table, drilled & tapped the table for a drain, cleaned and repainted the coolant system (with a white bottom to more easily see sediment when cleaning), fitted a single phase motor to the coolant pump, made up a nozzle and plumbing and found and fitted a filter in the delivery line.
IMAG1839.jpg IMAG1842.jpg IMAG1841.jpg IMAG1840.jpg IMAG1843.jpg

Still to make and fit is a 'mudguard' do the wheel to stop coolant getting sprayed up on the 'uphill' end of the wheel. Didn't even think of that until I tried it out
In the meantime I have ordered and received a container of Ecocool 610 clear grinder coolant. So I'm all set!

The table has a low area around the t-slotted 'boss' which obviously collects coolant but can't drain. Fitting a secondary drain at that end is too complicaed. So I've started filling that table end with epoxy filler (in thin layers because fo the hot weather). I'll fill it to the bottom of the T-slots with a slight slope towards them. That will allow the right side to drain along the T-slots to the left and dry out. The coolant is meant to prevent surface rust after it's dried off. RayG has found that to be reasonably effective.

Remaining tasks are the motorisation of the table in both axes, but the design is well under way. A DC motor and drive system is selected for the y-axis along wiht limit switches and controls. A 3-phase gear motor, VFD, suitable drive gear and switch (visible in the last picture) have all been collected.
I'll update the thread when any progress is made on those.

Watching with much interest Joe. I've read a bit about the clear coolant use on sg so I may have to look at that too.

Cheers,

Simon