Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 61 to 73 of 73
Thread: Bugga. Broke a tap
-
14th November 2014, 01:06 PM #61SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
In my experience you will have zero chance of directing a TIG arc down into a small hole like this. The arc will instead get pulled to the bore of the hole.
-
14th November 2014 01:06 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
14th November 2014, 02:12 PM #62
-
14th November 2014, 02:42 PM #63GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2,951
Nice work Michael. I will remember that idea.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
-
14th November 2014, 03:05 PM #64Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Ballina N.S.W.
- Posts
- 371
Michael,
Good to hear that you have solved the problem.About six months ago a mate of mine arrived with a piece of casting that he had broken a 1/8" whitworth tap off in,below the surface just like your problem. I removed the tap by putting a short as possible length of soft steel (piece of soft tie wire around .080" dia) in a hammer drill,held it down firmly and gave it a very short burst,then while maintaining the pressure hit reverse and out it came.It was a HSS tap. The hammer effect had driven the soft steel just a little way into the flute grooves just enough to enable it to turn in reverse.
Bob
-
14th November 2014, 05:12 PM #65SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
Oh ok, but now I'm completely lost. So you take your TIG torch stick the electrode on the end of the tap and turn the welder on? What happens then? A genuine question BTW, not trying to be a smart-ass, as I don't follow this at all.
BTW a thousand apologies to BaronJ, I read back through the thread to see what I'd missed in terms of the TIG solution Ray pointed out, and instead found, to my complete horror, that BarronJ had already suggested essentially the same idea as I did, except that I proposed a fastener instead of the welding rod. Sorry 'bout that, there were a lot of potential solutions coming through pretty quickly and I missed that one. At least you know I think it's a great idea though
-
14th November 2014, 06:03 PM #66Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,149
I must apologise as well, as I misunderstood this idea too. Next time I get the TIG out I may have to try this. My TIG has all sorts of idiot proofing in built (probably just as well considering the user...), so if I started with a dead short it would probably not kick in (this one has an auto OCV reduction thing which effectively stops that when using stick. Not sure whether it is still in the circuit when using TIG)
Michael
-
14th November 2014, 06:11 PM #67SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
Ah ok, I found the post referring to that now, and understand why I couldn't get it. You must have an old School transformer welder Ray, as that won't work on modern semiconductor based TIGs, they have protection in to shut them down with a short. Mine won't do squat if you short the tungsten out. You can still scratch start them, but it's not great, they do however come to life as the short is removed.
-
14th November 2014, 06:34 PM #68
Great to hear Michael.
I used the masonry drill trick to drill a hole in an almost new ride on mower blade that I stuffed. It split about a third of the length and came off the bolt. I decided to fix it just to prove I could and for experience. Also it was on the weekend. The mowers get lots of use at this time. I drilled a hole to prevent the crack extending further. I managed to straighten the 2 sides as I mig welded it bit by bit. The blade has done quite a bit of work since.
I will try this trick on my broken tap tomorrow. I can easily tap the next size. It does not matter.
Dean
-
14th November 2014, 08:01 PM #69
My TIG is a pretty basic smps model, but doesn't have all the bells and whistles that yours obviously does.
In any event the TIG is only the power supply to provide a current pulse, and also happens to have a convenient holder for a tungsten electrode.
No reason you couldn't try the same trick with just a car battery and a few wires hooked onto the tungsten electrode. The purpose is to apply a current pulse to the tap and heat it up enough to loosen it, not weld or erode it.
Ray
-
14th November 2014, 08:14 PM #70SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
Yeah I think it's a good idea Ray, I just couldn't grasp the concept as I was thinking of my own welder.
If using TC masonry drills, they strike me as something that wouldn't be too difficult to change to LH. The helix serves no useful purpose in this instance and it would likely just require a bit of a touch up of the TC tip on an appropriate wheel to change the clearance from RH to LH so they can cut. I've often found taps come out on their own when I'm trying to do something else with them, hence always try to run a drill etc in reverse if I can. I think masonry drills go down to about 3 mm IIRC, certainly 4 mm as I have some of those, so getting in to the useful territory for this type of thing.
-
15th November 2014, 07:20 AM #71
Hi PeteF,
BTW a thousand apologies to BaronJ, I read back through the thread to see what I'd missed in terms of the TIG solution Ray pointed out, and instead found, to my complete horror, that BarronJ had already suggested essentially the same idea as I did, except that I proposed a fastener instead of the welding rod. Sorry 'bout that, there were a lot of potential solutions coming through pretty quickly and I missed that one. At least you know I think it's a great idea though
Incidentally I've never had a TIG/MIG welder and only had, and still have a transformer based welder, not that it gets much use nowadays.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
-
15th November 2014, 09:31 AM #72
-
15th November 2014, 10:08 AM #73SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 2,340
The amount of chips you'd need to deal with would be minimal Dean, besides which, when drilling a tap I'd expect them to come out more like a powder. Just pull the drill, wipe it off, and reapply lube.
Similar Threads
-
Bugga@#$%%
By PsychoPig7 in forum CNC MachinesReplies: 15Last Post: 8th March 2011, 05:06 PM -
Bugga!
By artme in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNINGReplies: 10Last Post: 5th April 2009, 01:32 PM -
Bugga
By Daddles in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRINGReplies: 4Last Post: 11th July 2008, 04:03 AM -
bugga
By Tonyz in forum NOTHING AT ALL TO DO WITH WOODWORKReplies: 7Last Post: 5th October 2006, 09:39 PM -
Bugga, Bugga, and Sod it.
By chrisb691 in forum MARQUETRY and INTARSIAReplies: 8Last Post: 8th May 2006, 07:32 PM