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Thread: bushing or not bushing
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14th August 2013, 02:03 AM #1Member
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bushing or not bushing
hi everybody I m making woodworking jig and I always embedded Drymet bushing in moving parts.i used also hard chrome linear shaft.
here I m attaching 2 pictures for better understanding.do I need to embedded bush or just simply linear shaft is more than enough in aluminium which is 6063 grade.the maximum weight of total moving mechanism is including motor is 6kg.bush size is 6mm ID and 8mm OD and length is 12mm. your suggestion would be very important for me.
sorry in the picture there is no router motor
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14th August 2013 02:03 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th August 2013, 03:05 AM #2
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14th August 2013, 03:21 AM #3Member
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14th August 2013, 07:03 AM #4
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14th August 2013, 07:10 AM #5
Hi Again,
I think I've spotted a potential problem. When you clamp the router/motor those arms are going to flex. That could cause some binding and stiffness of the pivot points. It may be be better to use a pressure plate and grub screws to secure the motor.
Regards:
BaronJ.
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14th August 2013, 07:28 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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14th August 2013, 07:57 AM #7Philomath in training
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I would be bushing simply because over time I think that the holes in the Al would elongate and so the mechanism would get sloppy.
That device looks like a reduction pantograph - is it? It looks very nicely done regardless.
Michael
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14th August 2013, 10:08 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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14th August 2013, 10:51 AM #9Member
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thank you very much for all your suggestion.
yes I m using 10mm hex with 6mm female thread spacer to keep them together so stiffness is no problem.
yes it's reduction pantograph.the bushing I m suing called drymet.i choose it for it's thin wall.there is no any fast movement so I didn't chose needle bearing.
OILES Drymet LF
here is the video of my earlier model so you can see how much it has maximum movement.
Quadro mortise and tenon joint - YouTube
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14th August 2013, 12:35 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Ahh, I see, very nice. I was wondering what the springs were for.
I would definitely stick with the bushings even if only for the torque while cutting the as aluminium would just become sloppy over time.
-Josh
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14th August 2013, 04:38 PM #11Member
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Thanx
thank you very much so now I have decided to stick with bushing as you all suggest.
Last edited by hillpanther; 14th August 2013 at 04:54 PM. Reason: wrong spell
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14th August 2013, 05:09 PM #12
Nice looking machine, very well made and looks like it does an excellent job especially, thanks for the video.
Regards
Ray
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14th August 2013, 11:49 PM #13Member
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15th August 2013, 09:53 AM #14Mechanical Butcher
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Aluminium on polished steel is a good bearing combination, but a bush is a quality point, that someone might appreciate when it comes to service it, many years later perhaps. It means a quick repair rather than a slow one.
Also, a sintered bush that is impregnated with lubricant will be cleaner, and not need to be oiled routinely.
Jordan
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15th August 2013, 10:55 AM #15
Its a very sleek unit, i like it. With the right templates there would be no end to what you could do. The only thing i might suggest is to use a spiral flute cutter though, in harder timbers the straight one will struggle unless you take it real slow.
Love to see a vid of MK2 when it is done.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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