Thread: Where can I buy 1" or 3/4" Galvanised water pipe from?

try Reece's or Tradelink or even bunnings

most steel places should sell it , and it is normally threaded on the ends . if i was doing it i would be going 2" though much more air storage like a bigger tank by quite a bit too.

johno

I found it was cheaper to buy from a pipe supplier rather than a plumbing supplier and definitely don't get it from bunnings.

Have you got the right size BSP die and die holder? if not you will need one as the threaded ends on the pipe will be nowhere near enough to do the deed.

1" threads you can do yourself, 2" Humm, after cutting one 2" thread I was knackered.

In my shed I had to cut 32, 3/4" threads for my system and I tell you what by the end of that I was shot. My die holder has 12 handles

BTW Trefolex makes a big difference in cutting the threads.

You will also need a bunch of adapters to bring the pipe down to the air fitting thread sizes.

I used lots of connectors and adapters from my FILs large box of galv fittings - this meant I was using up to 3 adapters to go from 3/4 to 1/4" for the air fittings - ib variably most of these leaked. I have since then purchase a bundle of 3/4 to 1/4" brass adapters (not cheap if you buy them locally) on eBay which reduced leaks significantly.

Originally Posted by BobL

I used lots of connectors and adapters from my FILs large box of galv fittings - this meant I was using up to 3 adapters to go from 3/4 to 1/4" for the air fittings - ib variably most of these leaked.

Buy black or painted pipe, it's cheaper, and weld the fittings. That way they won't leak (as much)....

PDW

Thanks Guys.

I can't weld anywhere near good enough so I'll be cutting threads!

Do you guys use PTFE tape and still get the leaks?

May sound like a silly question, but to utilize a 1"BSP thread & fittings do I need 1" (or 1 1/4") pipe or is it all sold as metric 25mm?

I had planned on using brass adapters, probably home made to cut the qty and cost down.

Jon


Thx
Jon

Last time I bought gal pipe (it was 1") I got it from a fencing supplier.

Goes on nominal bore size so you likely want 25mm NB Sched 10 for light wall, standard wall is Schedule 40.

I never buy threaded pipe so can't help there. OD is supposed to stay the same regardless of wall thickness.

PDW

G'day Jon,
You need to get 1" or 25mm, pipe is usually sized by nominal bore. I would stick with gal rather than black pipe, less chance of rust and there's not that much difference in price.

Don't bother with Teflon tape, buy a tube of Stag jointing compound and use it on all joints and leaks won't be a problem. If you do go with Teflon tape, don't waste your time on the cheap stuff, look for a good brand name like Boston and use the yellow one which is for gas.
Don't just tighten the joints by hand, get a good strap wrench or some stilsons if you don't mind the marks.

For reducers you can just buy plugs or caps then drill and tap them to 1/4" BSPT.
Good luck.
Cheers,
Greg.

Originally Posted by ventureoverland

Thanks Guys.
I can't weld anywhere near good enough so I'll be cutting threads!
Do you guys use PTFE tape and still get the leaks?

Only if you don't tighten hard enough and use 7 layers of PTFE
Also you need to go back and check periodically

May sound like a silly question, but to utilize a 1"BSP thread & fittings do I need 1" (or 1 1/4") pipe or is it all sold as metric 25mm?

You buy 1" pipe - to use 1" fittings but the pipe is not 1" its a bit bigger.

I had planned on using brass adapters, probably home made to cut the qty and cost down.

Unless you have already have the brass I found I could not buy the brass for the price of a ready made adapters.
I bought mine on Aliexpress for about $2 each
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-X-N...828949375.html

Another source of gal pipes and fittings is suppliers of fire sprinkler equipment.
I bought some 45 degree elbows in BSP 1" from one for a very reasonable price a few months back.

Jordan

Originally Posted by BobL

You buy 1" pipe - to use 1" fittings but the pipe is not 1" its a bit bigger.

It's a lot bigger. Pipe size's were always nominal bore. You see that by the term N.B. (Nominal Bore) Outer diameter varies by schedule. That's the ratio between the inner and outer diameters.

Your one inch bore, Schedule 40 pipe would have an O.D of 33.4mm. That's a fair strait from 25.4mm

Originally Posted by Machtool

It's a lot bigger. Pipe size's were always nominal bore. You see that by the term N.B. (Nominal Bore) Outer diameter varies by schedule. That's the ratio between the inner and outer diameters.

Your one inch bore, Schedule 40 pipe would have an O.D of 33.4mm. That's a fair strait from 25.4mm

I was referring to the bore

My data for 1" Medium Galv pipe says a 33.7 OD and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm

33.7 - (2 x 3.2) = 27.3 mm as the actual bore, so 10% more - I guess that's also a bit more than a bit?

I would be using 3/4 or 1/2" pipe myself...

Have you considered poly water pipe? Same sizes as steel pipe are available and you can mix and match with metal fittings without galvanic corrosion occurring. Best of al the joints can be done up by hand. The pipe and the fittings are more costly than gal but you only need a hand saw and a knife to join them.

Gal pipe and fittings are cheap but you also need quality tools to join them. A proper threading head with adjustable cutters is the best way to cut pipe threads, solid dies like Warrigal dies are really only suitable for cleaning up or polishing the threads prior to assembly although with sufficient force you can rip threads with them. Talking of force, how are you going to hold the pipe while you cut it? A normal engineers vise isn't much cop for holding pipe securely it its flat jaws although some do have pipe jaws built in.

Lastly... I hate PTFE tape! Especially on rough cut threads, you can end up with fragments of the stuff coming down the pipe and blocking orifaces etc. Loctite 567 is a thick white NONE SETTING compound that does the job of PTFE much better. Loctite 577 is a HARD SETTING compound that works even better but you only get one attempt to make the joins as you can physically see it harden off as soon as you start to tighten it.