Thread: CC engineering tool and cutter grinder

I feel like a kid in an ice cream shop!
What colour to paint it?
The pics online of the originals shows them as shiny black, as does the final coat of paint clinging to the castings.
I'm tempted to do it shiny black, but Ive bought a $3 can of dark metalwork grey at the cheap shop.
Decisions , decisions!!

I'm about to venture into unassembling the column (post) to give it a good clean because it seems very sticky.
There are 4 fasteners down the side.
From the
1-- grubscrew
2--hex bolt (tapped into a small piece of flat bar)
3--countersunk metal thread screw
4--hex head bolt

I'd appreciate any advice please on a sequence to unassemble it all.

Hi Brian,

One of those will be to stop the lead screw from backing out when you turn the handle, maybe the counter sunk grub screw? remove that and see if you can wind the lead screw all the way out.

Ray

Originally Posted by Briangoldcoast

I'm about to venture into unassembling the column (post) to give it a good clean because it seems very sticky.
There are 4 fasteners down the side.
From the
1-- grubscrew
2--hex bolt (tapped into a small piece of flat bar)
3--countersunk metal thread screw
4--hex head bolt

I'd appreciate any advice please on a sequence to unassemble it all.

Hi Brian, I would say that the top grub screw holds the top assembly in place, stopping it from rotating. The 3 lower ones the hex heads hold the block in place while the counter sunk one would be an adjuster to limit backlash, I could stand to be corrected but I'm pretty sure that is what they are for.
I'd remove the hex heads and counter sunk,after lowering the head as far as is will go, (to prevent it slipping down while holding it), then the grub screw at the top which should allow the shaft assembly to be removed, them the spindle assy should come off. You might need to scrape/clean of the sticky stuff to allow the spindle assembly to slide off.
Kryn

I think it goes like this.
Undo the 4 slot head grub scews around the top of the column.
Remove the collar and screw from the column.
Undo the 2 hex bolts and slot screw, the nut falls* out and then you can slide the spindle off the column
I'm pretty sure the top hex bolt isn't factory(maybe an attempt to stop the spindle rotating so much on the column) .

Stuart

*ok it might need a tap

Thanks Ray, Kryn and Stewart. Helpful gentlemen as usual.
That should keep me amused over the weekend
regards
Brian

Brian, did it come apart as I'd suggested?
As I've said before, I've a mate that goes to Qld and can pick it up for me, "so I'll take it off your hands" if it becomes to hard.
Just funnin ya. Nice work by the way.
Pity there wasn't a green eyed monster in the smilies "Jealousy".
Kryn

Well with Kryn's encouragement (read lust), I've got it apart!!
Pic a and c show a brass threaded block which is firmly 'stuck', in the column. (Details in pic b)
It seems to me that this block should slide smoothly in the slot of the column to raise and lower the grinding head, when the screw is turned???
Am I right?
If I'm wrong--what should I do next?
All help gratefully appreciated.
regards
Brian

It should.
Have you undone the screw that spreads the slit in the nut?

Stuart

Brian,
As Stuart suggested, clean out the crap that is in the first hole from the front, there should be a plug screw in there, possibly with a slotted head, going by the rest of the fasteners. This plug screws unto a tapered hole, allowing the brass block to open/close depending on where the plug is. Removing the plug will/should allow the block to come free, some CRC/WD40 sprayed on it would probably help also.
You are right, that I'm LUSTING after it.
Kryn

Stu and Kryn,
I will look more closely and clean out some of the crap and then gently 'attack' the screw
Thanks again for your guidance
regarfs
Brian

Sorry I was away when you asked....
But I see you almost woked it all out.
Give the block a tap INWARDS with a soft-faced hammer or a block of wood. It should just 'pop' into the column. You can then fish it out or invert the column and it will fall out. The adjustment screw mentioned in the above posts will need to be cleaned and made mobile again for adjustment later on. But you need to get the block into the column to get it out in any case. Just spray some CRC on it and bump it in in the first instance.

PS: what was the crooked piece of metal above the Bronze block - held on by the off centre bolt with the 'N' on it?

Hi Joe,
Now I know I won't be damaging anything I can do as you suggest.
My concern was that the brass block is really jammed in the slot in the side of the column, and even with the adjustment screw completely removed, it won't move.
Is that 'normal' for it to be so hard to move?? I guess I'm asking how much 'force' should be required to move it up and down.
The 'slot' is smooth and there does not seem to be any 'rubbish' inside, it's just that the brass block fits so tightly.

I have added a pic of the piece of flat bar attached to the hex head metal thread with the 'n'.
"Someone" had added this to 'clamp' the grinding head to the column--by the look of it. I have no idea why. But we all know about that mysterous oriental gentleman (Sum Won) who does these sorts of things.
The workmanship on this 'bit' is pretty ordinary.
Any ideas why it would have been needed, please.
thanks and regards
Brian

Hi Brian, was this block on top of the brass block? If it was, I would say that it was to prevent the brass block from hitting the top of the slot, and damaging it, if the operator was careless.
Kryn