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  1. #16
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    well done Ian i wonder if you can add another pic or 2 of the vise looks like a self aligning fixed jaw if thats what it can be called
    john

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  3. #17
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    Jul 2010
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    Hi Ian,

    I assume the Z is the handle to the left of your new switch?

    Whats the tapered shaft on the Y carriage for? (rapid X? for a dividing head?)

    Just one thing with a single phase motor. If you ever think about power tapping using the "throw it in reverse" technique, don't it wont work, the motor will likely just keep spinning the same way.(of course you may already know this lol)

    Would be a handy machine if you are left handed lol (though I guess you'd get used the the left handed quill feed soon enough?)

    Stuart

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    Far West Wimmera
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Ian,

    I assume the Z is the handle to the left of your new switch?

    Whats the tapered shaft on the Y carriage for? (rapid X? for a dividing head?)

    Just one thing with a single phase motor. If you ever think about power tapping using the "throw it in reverse" technique, don't it wont work, the motor will likely just keep spinning the same way.(of course you may already know this lol)

    Would be a handy machine if you are left handed lol (though I guess you'd get used the the left handed quill feed soon enough?)

    Stuart
    My mill reverses sometimes when I push the reverse button. I think I need a firm press for it to work properly. There is a micro switch at the bottom of the depth rod travel which reverses the motor. Just needs to be set exactly right with the head raising handle because the switch is fixed in position in the head and the depth setting block with the arrow on it has to hit the bottom of its full travel to activate the switch. There is a switch at the extreme top of the travel which turns the mill off. I just had to go out and try it to make sure of my facts. Micro switches both worked as described. "Reverse" then "off". Using the reverse button manually worked 6 times out of 6 with a firm press. I tried a gentle press and it turned the mill off.

    Dean

  5. #19
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Hi Dean,

    Must say I'd forgotten about those single phase mills with the power tapping option. (anyone know how the motors are wired?)
    I was thinking more of a cap start motor with centrifugal switch. Useless the motor slows enough for the centrifugal switch to close, the motor just keeps spinning in the same direction. I must be missing another way of doing things.

    Stuart

  6. #20
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    Jan 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Hi Dean,

    Must say I'd forgotten about those single phase mills with the power tapping option. (anyone know how the motors are wired?)
    I was thinking more of a cap start motor with centrifugal switch. Useless the motor slows enough for the centrifugal switch to close, the motor just keeps spinning in the same direction. I must be missing another way of doing things.

    Stuart
    The direction reverse is instant.

    Elecrical Circuit.jpg

    Maybe this will help. Don't ask where I got it.

    Dean

  7. #21
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    Feb 2012
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    Willunga
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    Hi All

    Sorry about the delay in getting back to you, I have been away.

    Stuart - it is a very left handed machine which is a concern, my left hand is only for balance! It is the Z, knee lift to the left of the switch. Its action is light and smooth but it is a bit awquard. The drilling handle and lock for the quill is on the left and the clutch and the micrometer down feed on the right.

    There was a power feed option that fitted on the right of the X and I imagine that this is why they put the manual feed on the right. When I get a minute I will have a look at moving the manual feed to the RH side. Externally it appears to be easy...

    To the right of the Y feed it is a rapid movement spindle for the the X, there is a rack underneath the table. I have put the handle on in this photo. It is however very poorly designed and I think of little value. It is impossible to get a full turn of the handle as it fouls the Y.


    IMG_0223.jpg

    To use the rack you have to release the half nut from the X leadscrew, this is the bolt visible below the table in this pic. It might well work with a dividing head, it would need to be something like that to be worth the trouble of setting it up.


    IMG_0222.jpg

    With care it would I think be OK for through tapping but it be very chancy for bottoming. It does stop fairly quickly. For obvious reasons I haven't tried throwing the machine direct into reverse.

    John - that vise is a strange beast. I can see that it might well be a useful thing to own but I am not sure that it is suitable as the main vice for the machine. The two jaws swivel separately as you can see and it will hold something round or irregularly shaped vertically. With the jaws reversed it held the piece of bar to its left very effectively.


    IMG_0226.jpg

    It hasn't got a fixed jaw to tram so this is what I resorted to. I then put in some smaller precision blocks that didn't contact right across the swivels and it seemed to hold them square. It is a good size for the machine 85mm wide and 80 high.


    IMG_0224.jpg

    It is an aftermarket vise of some sort and needs a bit of work to clean up on some small areas on the castings. For example there are dags at the base of the swiveling jaws that would foul a parallel.

    I would be very interested to hear if anyone has one or knows anything about the vise? I can't find anything on google.

    Regards

    Ian


    IMG_0222.jpgIMG_0223.jpgIMG_0224.jpgIMG_0226.jpg
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