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23rd February 2012, 12:28 AM #136
Hi,
Thanks again Dave.
It may be a little while but i'll post some pics when i get there, i promised my sister an entertainment unit before my niece was crawling.....she started last week and i haven't done a thing.
My machine doesn't have a groove in the quill, something that i didn't notice until i made a hollow chisel morticing jig, which of course didn't stay square to the table.
Without going to look i think mine was built in 2002 or 2003.
Thinking about you having to shim your nuts (now thats not something you hear everyday...) my long feed gets tight at each end, i thought maybe it was just the weight of the table being so far off center, but it could also be the nut bending the leadscrew.
I have already had problems (very early on) with the powerfeed shimming, in that the feed would skip a tooth or two under heavy load. It turned out there was just so much muck in with the shims that a good clean and re-lube fixed the problem.
Ewan
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23rd February 2012, 12:57 AM #137Dave J Guest
No problems, we are all not going anywhere, LOL
My table was like that and so was the Y axis, once I shimmed them it all runs nice. I would say thats your problem as I don't think the bloke before you wore out the lead screw for it to be tight on the ends.
I did start a thread on the quill slot with measurements, found it
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/hm...l-slot-121511/
Dave
PS
I am not sure if you know, but if you are looking for something from a thread you know someone started, a quick way to find it is
click on their name
view public profile
show all statistics (on the right)
find all threads started by XXXX (on the left)
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24th February 2012, 05:09 PM #138SENIOR MEMBER
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???? I didn't have any problem buying a can of 0.010" (I think, it's in the shed) shim stock in Hobart, and if you can get it here, you should be able to get it *anywhere*.
Other thicknesses were available as well. Problem is that a can is a lifetime or 3 supply for most of us. I think I've used maybe 100mm.
PDW
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24th February 2012, 05:18 PM #139GOLD MEMBER
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How do you live 3 times.
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24th February 2012, 05:30 PM #140
Maybe we need to start a shim register, listing drink, oops I mean shim manufacturers and the thickness of shims they make.
But seriously I have only really used al foil, taly-ho's and newspaper as shims. The can idea is a good one.
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24th February 2012, 06:40 PM #141GOLD MEMBER
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24th February 2012, 07:15 PM #142Dave J Guest
I think PDW is talking about a can of shim stock, not a can as shim stock. It sometimes comes in rolls like that.
Dave
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24th February 2012, 08:30 PM #143GOLD MEMBER
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25th February 2012, 08:20 PM #144
I had to go to my local industrial supply shop today to get a belt. I asked about shim stock and they showed me a small range that included rolls and flat sheets in steel and brass. I bought a pack of 6 8" square pieces, 2 x .025, 2 x .05, 1 x .15 and 1x .25. It was $17 or so. I have already used a piece of .15 to snug up a hss boring bar broach so the HSS bit was firm before tightening the screw.
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25th February 2012, 08:25 PM #145GOLD MEMBER
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25th February 2012, 08:32 PM #146
Simon,
If you, or anyone else, would like some just pm me and i'll pick some up, sandwich it in some thin mdf or ply so it doesnt get trashed in the post, and post it to you. Its only light so i don't imagine postage would be that much.
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25th February 2012, 09:59 PM #147Dave J Guest
For the X axis gib shimming, you would be better off with a single piece that goes end to end and leave a little bit (5mm or so) to fold over at 90 degrees at the ends to hold it in place to stop it sliding when you adjust it. You can still make it up as 2 pieces but it will make it fiddly to adjust the gib and keep them in place, but on the other hand you don't do it that often anyway.
Dave
PS
Ueee
When I said about photos earlier I was mixing you up with CJ and his US Grizzly mill, sorry about that. Still be interesting to see any other differences though. Just with the 3 machines I had in my possession there where many differences, some as small as the knee handle being a much thinner design. I notice now they don't even come with a vise, the vises where not much to start with but at least you had something to use while saving to get a better one. So they take away the vise and put up the price of the mill even with the dollar being around it's highest, who knows they might sky rocket to around $7000 when the dollar dives again.
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25th February 2012, 10:21 PM #148
Dave,
Oh that blue lump is a vice? I thought it an oversized paperweight LOL. I took it off its swivel base and remachined the jaw seats long ago. Its actually not too bad now (but not great either) From memory my machine was just over 4k in 2004, with vice, collet set, chuck (whick broke long ago) MT adaptors etc. I think i saw them a few years later at 3.5k or so-i was pretty peeved about it.
When i get to shimming i will test it with small pieces and then buy a roll of the right size.
Thanks
Ewan
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25th February 2012, 11:44 PM #149Senior Member
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26th February 2012, 02:50 AM #150Dave J Guest
Hi
I reworked my first one as a spare because I bought a Kurt clone. When the mill was returned I told them about it and they said I could keep it if I wanted to, but the new mill was from another manufacturer and turned up with a different vise which was better, so I let the reworked one go back. Someone will get that vise with the mill and wonder what all the fuss is as it will be accurate, LOL
The newer vise has a single way instead of 2 like the older one, but the ways still fall short of the fixed jaw like the other one.
I paid $4200 for mine and then had to pay another $1000 because the dollar went down at the time and the new ones had a DRO (even though I already had one and they wouldn't take it off the new one) so it ended up costing me $5200. They where retailing for $5800 with DRO at the time with the dollar being low and $5200 without. Don't sweat it on those cheap ones, they where the older models being sold off I that I had trouble with.The HM50 where down to something like $3300
Back in 2004 they where good machines as Chich on CNC zone bought one and converted it, but I think the manufacturer got slack and they ended up with bad batches around 2006-2007. My first one was a 2006 model that had a tapered table over it's length, milled Y axis dovetails (not ground as advertised) and the next 2007 model had a warped table along with a lot of other things wrong with it. At that time they checked and all 3 HM52's left in Sydney had warped tables as well.
What broke, your collet chuck or the collets? I haven't used mine a great deal because I have ER32 collets, but if it was the collets some Chinese sellers on ebay seem to have those weird collets for sale and I think it was ARC trade from UK had some also.
Dave
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