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22nd January 2013, 06:54 AM #1
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Cheap Coolant system for a mini-mill
I am now making an El Cheapo coolant system for my mini-mill
I have made a drip tray of 40mm high with a boat basin drain that will go to a bucket with a piece of pipe. The bucket will be of a size that will be fixed to the side of my mill stand.
Inside will be a fountain water feature pump that will lead the water to a mill cooland spout, equiped with a small tap. I will direct the water to the spot where the cutter meets the work piece. The pump at its slowest setting is a little strong, but closing the tap a bit control the water flow.
The mill is mounted on spacers, on top of the drip tray, equiped with silicone washers. I will also waterproof it further with a proper sealant tomorrow and test the dqay after tomorrow.
The pump can deliver up to a 1000l / hour. I am aware that there will remain a little water in the drip tray that will evaporates during the day because of very hot conditions, as well as due to spatter, but the loss will be minimal. At least now my cutters will remain cool.
Any other ideas? Any points I have to take in account?Regards
Johan
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22nd January 2013 06:54 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd January 2013, 06:12 PM #2
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Splash guards to keep the coolant off the floor and you, and a filter to keep chips etc out of the reservoir.
Dean
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22nd January 2013, 06:17 PM #3
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Pics
is what we need Johan
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22nd January 2013, 07:32 PM #4
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And by "water" I take it you mean coolant? Soluble oil and water?
My planned tank will have provision for a UV light and bubbler to keep the anerobic bacteria at bay.
GregIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™
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22nd January 2013, 07:45 PM #5
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On my lathe my coolant is pumped continuously in a loop almost at the full speed of the pump.
The advantage of this is that the constant higher coolant flow rate keeps the coolant oxygenated which reduces the formation of anerobic bacteria and hence a bad smell.
Details here -> https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/coollant-tank-135745/
On my BS, I flood the blade at whatever the pump can deliver.
Details Here -> (start at post #49) https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/ba...91/index4.html
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22nd January 2013, 07:47 PM #6
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Do you leave your coolant system running constantly when your machines are not in use to eliminate the bacteria problem.
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22nd January 2013, 08:31 PM #7
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Not constantly, but if I have not used the lathe for a few days (I'm supposed to mainly be a woodworker
Originally Posted by pipeclay
) then I will turn the coolant loop on for a few hours. I think the main reason I have no smell problems, compared for example to the machines at work, is because I'm using fully synthetic lube. My tank still gets a scummy layer at the top that I skim off every 6 months or so - thats the oxygen loving bacteria at work, but it does not get that camel urine smell from the low oxygen content.
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22nd January 2013, 10:02 PM #8
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I have to admit that on a couple of occasions I have gotten infected fingers from cleaning out
coolant tanks,
and...... before anyone says it, nup, gloves are for girls
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24th January 2013, 04:10 AM #9
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24th January 2013, 10:57 AM #10
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Looks pretty straight forward.
Lathes and mills seem to have fewer problems with swarf in the coolant, but I found that unless I use magnets to catch the superfine dust from my bandsaw that this dust would build up on the magnets inside the motor. If it stops pumping you know what might have happened.
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24th January 2013, 06:15 PM #11
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+1 :d Originally Posted by shedhappens
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25th January 2013, 05:54 AM #12
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I have milled for about an hour today. The motor keeps moderately cool and the cutter remains cold. IT works, even for a homemade carbide insert dovetail cuter. However I have ruined the cutter that ran too hot before the coolant. Tapping fluid as a coolant did not cooled it down enough. The cutter, after sharpened will again be excellent for aluminium and brass.
Regards
Johan
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