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Thread: New chuck
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24th February 2014, 12:48 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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I've got an excellent 4 jaw Pratt Burnerd with the Schaublin, and also collets.
I wanted to use the scroll chuck for small not so critical stuff, and expected to get about 0.02 mm runout consistently from one - but not to be.
I took the chuck back to the store this morning and they were excellent about it, no problem.
They offered me a replacement, but I took a refund, as I had no confidence in the product.
I'm thinking now I may be better off fitting an ER collet head to the lathe instead of a small scroll chuck.
I use ER32 collets extensively in the head and tailstock of my CQ9325, and they are excellent - no sticking, 1 mm pull down tolerance, first class.
So I think I will look closely at the ER avenue.
The existing Schaublin collets I have only go to about 15 mm or so, and are imperial, but the biggest bug bear is that they only have very small pull down tolerance.
General Tools did offer me a 100 mm TOS for about $350 which was tempting, but that's about as much as the lathe cost.
Anyway at least the monkey is off my back and I can move on.
Cheers
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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24th February 2014 12:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th February 2014, 01:12 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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I thought the advantage of the Griptru was on multiple pieces....sure a little painful to set up but once done you have the speed of a self centering chuck with(close to) the accuracy of a independent chuck(at that diameter). A lot like(if you lathe is big enough) using a small 3 jaw mounted in a 4 jaw.
Stuart
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24th February 2014, 02:42 PM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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While I had the test gear out I thought I may as well check the 5" Chinese no name brand scroll chuck that came with my CQ9325 lathe for runout.
0.02 mm at 20 mm diam and 0.04 mm at 10 mm diam not too shabby for a 10 year old lathe that's done a heap of work.
So if I can get that out of my old clunker, I should be able to get similar from a new chuck. Well you would think so
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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24th February 2014, 03:01 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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Since you've the small stuff covered I'd look at ER40 or whatever size goes up to the max spindle bore plus a bit.
Bad comparison. It's not really relevant what you paid for the lathe, what is relevant is what you want to do with it. I once bought a lathe for $100, does that mean you think I should never buy a tool costing more than the machine cost me?
PDW
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24th February 2014, 04:56 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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24th February 2014, 05:05 PM #21
Hi Rob,
What's the spindle bore size on the Schaublin 120? ER40 goes up to 1"
In any event, I think you should show some respect for the Schaublin brand by sticking with W20 collets, ( or is it W25? ) of course they are probably three times the price and unobtainable...
Ray
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24th February 2014, 05:06 PM #22Senior Member
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I absolutely agree with you. I didnt buy the bison because it would have so little runout, its just a nice side effect. Mind you, it gives you a bit of flexibility when things didnt go to plan. If I had collets, id probably use them, but for 90% of my work, the new chuck is plenty good enough. I do have a 4 jaw, but recently, the only time ive justified getting it on is when the bison doesnt have enough reach. I do have a pratt burnerd that came with the lathe, but whilst it runs true, the bell mouthing in it is so bad that all its good for is turning precision rounded triangles as the workpiece flops around. And dont even think about parting.
But back to the original point, I dont see why anyone would want to own such a fine machine and foist a below average chinese made chuck on it. Im also from the school of thought that I dont have lots of money and that the best way to waste it is to cheap out and buy the option that might not do the job to my satisfaction. After reading reviews of the bison, there was no mystery as to what I was getting. The fuerda could have gone either way in my experience.
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24th February 2014, 05:30 PM #23
As someone with a saved searches for Rivett collet, Schaublin Collet and Hardinge Collet on ebay i can tell you the W style collets are far more common then the 4C i am after, and not that expensive. Schaublin gear is only made from unobtainium, Rivett gear is made from weapons (or maybe surgical?) grade unobtainium....
Since i paid zip for the lathe i don't feel the need to scrimp on chucks and collets, if it costs me $1000 in gear then i still have a cheap lathe for what it is (will) be.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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24th February 2014, 05:35 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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It's 22.5 mm by my measurement.
Ray I can't believe the prices Schaublin collets bring now.
I saw a dead centre collet for the headstock listed on fleabay at over $70 recently. I have one of those and probably 30 others, which is rather mind boggling when you add it all up.
They work OK but ER has better capabilities IMHO.
RobThe worst that can happen is you will fail.
But at least you tried.
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25th February 2014, 08:56 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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25th February 2014, 09:00 AM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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