Thread: Chuck removal device

Been a long time since I had anything to do with threaded spindles, but its the the "other end" people normally have problems holding and thats when they damage things?(like back gears)

Stuart

Looks like Fidos collar received a makeover.

Whatever gets the job done.

Best chuck removal tool I've seen (for a 3 jaw anyway) is a short length of 2" hex with a steel tommy bar welded onto it. For a 4 jaw I guess you could use 2" square bar. Maybe even mill a square on one end of a 6" length of hex to make a double-ended tool. Handle could be screwed into the tool. Picture a mallet with a hex head on one side and a square head on the other. Although it's probably just as easy to insert a bar between the jaws of a 4 jaw.

Originally Posted by jack620

Best chuck removal tool I've seen (for a 3 jaw anyway) is a short length of 2" hex with a steel tommy bar welded onto it. For a 4 jaw I guess you could use 2" square bar. Maybe even mill a square on one end of a 6" length of hex to make a double-ended tool. Handle could be screwed into the tool. Picture a mallet with a hex head on one side and a square head on the other. Although it's probably just as easy to insert a bar between the jaws of a 4 jaw.

I use a big hammer and a lump of wood against the end of a jaw sticking out a bit, but I hope not to have to do this for too much longer.

Dean

Originally Posted by jack620

Best chuck removal tool I've seen (for a 3 jaw anyway) is a short length of 2" hex with a steel tommy bar welded onto it. For a 4 jaw I guess you could use 2" square bar. Maybe even mill a square on one end of a 6" length of hex to make a double-ended tool. Handle could be screwed into the tool. Picture a mallet with a hex head on one side and a square head on the other. Although it's probably just as easy to insert a bar between the jaws of a 4 jaw.

Like using an allen key to remove the chuck from an electric drill. I just wish that I found out that trick before I had to use it. Haven't needed it since I found it! Sigh

Dean

I have that exact strap wrench, and coincidentally I was using it just the other day. Normally I just remove my chucks by putting the key in and giving it a tap with the back of my hand.

Originally Posted by Pete F

I have that exact strap wrench, and coincidentally I was using it just the other day. Normally I just remove my chucks by putting the key in and giving it a tap with the back of my hand.

Pete
Same here.
regards
Bruce

Originally Posted by Pete F

I have that exact strap wrench, and coincidentally I was using it just the other day. Normally I just remove my chucks by putting the key in and giving it a tap with the back of my hand.

The "Back" of your hand? The first time after I got my lathe It took some getting off but since then It has only required a bit of a tap but to do this with the back of the hand I don't understand. That's the bit that always hurts like %&&% when I knock it on something. Maybe I am just not tough enough.

Dean

Why not chock the chuck to the bed and switch the motor on in reverse for a split second?
Worked for me, after a few attempts, and taking precautions to prevent the chuck coming off completely (tailstock, although not needed).

Jordan

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

The "Back" of your hand? The first time after I got my lathe It took some getting off but since then It has only required a bit of a tap but to do this with the back of the hand I don't understand. That's the bit that always hurts like %&&% when I knock it on something. Maybe I am just not tough enough.

Dean

Maybe Sadly the post was the product of 36 hours between decent sleeps, the palm of my hand was what I meant. The point being that some people see a thread and seem to think they have to tighten whatever goes on it to within half a pico-Newton of its ultimate yield strength. In fact if the lathe is being used in normal rotation and with even semi-intelligent use, there's nothing to be gained from doing other than just snugging the chuck up and it will unscrew again very easily.

Pete

Originally Posted by Pete F

Maybe Sadly the post was the product of 36 hours between decent sleeps, the palm of my hand was what I meant. The point being that some people see a thread and seem to think they have to tighten whatever goes on it to within half a pico-Newton of its ultimate yield strength. In fact if the lathe is being used in normal rotation and with even semi-intelligent use, there's nothing to be gained from doing other than just snugging the chuck up and it will unscrew again very easily.

Pete

I dont know how you cope with this flight thing.
We just returned from England after a 22 hr flight & suffering from jet lag.
Totally punched out !
Any clues on how to rectify or reduce the time to return to normal ?
regards
Bruce
ps Have used the granite surface plate purchased from you a while back.
It been a very handy piece of equipment.

I'd often joke to people when they'd say that. Ok how would you now feel if I said you had to turn around and go back the other way 24 hours after you arrived? Have a few days off, then do it all again. Not such a glamourous profession at times!

In all seriousness though Bruce, get outside in the sunshine if possible, and spend as much time in it as you can for a couple of days. The more sunshine you can get, the faster you'll "reset".

Failing that? Copious amounts of alcohol!!!*

Pete

*Shame I don't typically drink

Originally Posted by Pete F

Maybe Sadly the post was the product of 36 hours between decent sleeps, the palm of my hand was what I meant. The point being that some people see a thread and seem to think they have to tighten whatever goes on it to within half a pico-Newton of its ultimate yield strength. In fact if the lathe is being used in normal rotation and with even semi-intelligent use, there's nothing to be gained from doing other than just snugging the chuck up and it will unscrew again very easily.

Pete

Makes more sense. I agree totally with the tightening. What's this? "semi-intelligent use,". Got me stumped! That's a big word there but don't get me started cos you wont be able to stop me.

There are so many things that people act in an unitelligent way about. One example is gas cylinders, specifically fork lift fuel cylinders. Only a turn or so of the valve is needed but how many times do people turn the valve on fully and then hard against the stop just in case there is not enough gas coming out. Then when you come along you don't know whether the valve is open or closed.

Oops! I told you not to get me started.

Dean

Holding the chuck is not usually the problem; it's holding the spindle.