Thread: Chuck Stops for Hercus 260 Lathe

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob1514891

If it's that easy why don't you make one for me.

Hey that was my idea :P

Originally Posted by Abratool

Its a bit like holding a rifle, its hard to hold steady without "flinching"
A small tripod might help.

I've taken to using dial guage stands, they work very well in the shed as there is almost always something metal handy about. Also I use 2 second delay for longer exposures.

You still have the same picture twice in the second post?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hey that was my idea :P


I've taken to using dial guage stands, they work very well in the shed as there is almost always something metal handy about. Also I use 2 second delay for longer exposures.

You still have the same picture twice in the second post?

Stuart

Yep, I made an error in putting up the 2 pictures.
How do I go about getting rid of one of them?
Bruce

Originally Posted by Abratool

Yep, I made an error in putting up the 2 pictures.
How do I go about getting rid of one of them?
Bruce

.

You should still be able to edit your post Bruce. Open it up, select the go advanced option and delete the extraneous photo. Leave it too long and editing isn't an option. You'll notice I "edited" my previous post. Reckon you blokes are old enough to take your own photos.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

.

You should still be able to edit your post Bruce. Open it up, select the go advanced option and delete the extraneous photo. Leave it too long and editing isn't an option. You'll notice I "edited" my previous post. Reckon you blokes are old enough to take your own photos.

BT

Bob
Thanks, I went to "Advanced Option" & deleted the whole message, as I could not see how to delete one photo.
No problems, I will post up the correct photo.
regards
Bruce

Originally Posted by Abratool

Bob
Thanks, I went to "Advanced Option" & deleted the whole message, as I could not see how to delete one photo.
No problems, I will post up the correct photo.
regards
Bruce

Bruce,

In the go advanced mode scroll down to Manage Attachments, find your photo and remove it. Easy.

Now, forget editing, what about my suggestion of a push rod extending out the back of the handwheel?

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Bruce,

In the go advanced mode scroll down to Manage Attachments, find your photo and remove it. Easy.

Now, forget editing, what about my suggestion of a push rod extending out the back of the handwheel?

Bob.

Bob
Yes, I think your idea of a an extended push rod would be easy to make.
I just measured the hole going through the Draw tube Collet closer & its 13/16" dia.
You may notice its designed to screw onto 4C collets. I have machined up an adaptor to accept 3C collets which can be easily interchaged by unscrewing to take the 4C
So summarizing, an expander could be made with a 13/16th" OD to fit into the rear end of the tube, to hold the push rod idea.
To answer your other question, because of the machining I used free cutting mild steel.
For the very occasional use the stops will get, it will be adequate.
I am just careful not to bump the Bung section so as not to damage or cause burrs on it.
regards
Bruce

I had noticed the reducer. Was the decision to purchase the 3Cs based on their more ready availability as opposed to the larger collets. Do you have any 4Cs?

As you point out Bruce, 1214 would be more than adequate for the job it's required to do.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I had noticed the reducer. Was the decision to purchase the 3Cs based on their more ready availability as opposed to the larger collets. Do you have any 4Cs?

As you point out Bruce, 1214 would be more than adequate for the job it's required to do.

BT

Bob
Correct, I went with the 3C collets because of availability.
I have 4C collets in 1/2" 9/16" 5/8" 11/16" & 3/4"
They are a wonderful collet but availability became practically nil, & the price was way too much.
The 3C collets I purchased from "Tools 4 Cheap" in the USA They range from 3/64" to 37/64" in steps of 1/64" So that covers a vast range. Some of them will even accept some metric sizes, not exact but very close.
It would be nice to get some metric common sizes, but I have not needed those yet.
I like collets, they are accurate, hold the work in a very secure way, & are good from the viewpoint of space up near the operations near the headstock, particularly for high speed, small Dia work.
They are particularly good for second operation work, because of the secure grip over a short gripping area.
Also re your question on the "Rohm" vs " Burnerd" 3 jaw chuck.
When I purchased the lathe, for some reason I wanted a bit bigger chuck than the 5" that came from Hercus.
I reckon Burnerd are tops, but I had a contact at that time who was a distributor in Australia for Rohm chucks. So I purchased at the right price.
Sadly that contact & the business have now long gone.
The last time I looked at Chucks ( a few years back) they were priced out of my range so I settled for an H&F 4" chuck which is not made to the standard of Rohm or Burnerd but one that does everything I ask of it.
I like the Griptrue chuck you own.
Also noticed the 5C collet Bison chuck out of the USA would offer a lot of good advantages. I think Ive seen them at "Little Machine Shop" in the USA.
Workholding is an important part of owning & operating a lathe.
There are lots of good equipment available.
regards
Bruce
ps Just checked & "Tools 4 Cheap" USA do carry the 5C collet chuck I mentioned above.

Originally Posted by Abratool

Bob
Correct, I went with the 3C collets because of availability.
I have 4C collets in 1/2" 9/16" 5/8" 11/16" & 3/4"
They are a wonderful collet but availability became practically nil, & the price was way too much.
The 3C collets I purchased from "Tools 4 Cheap" in the USA They range from 3/64" to 37/64" in steps of 1/64" So that covers a vast range. Some of them will even accept some metric sizes, not exact but very close.
It would be nice to get some metric common sizes, but I have not needed those yet.
I like collets, they are accurate, hold the work in a very secure way, & are good from the viewpoint of space up near the operations near the headstock, particularly for high speed, small Dia work.
They are particularly good for second operation work, because of the secure grip over a short gripping area.
Also re your question on the "Rohm" vs " Burnerd" 3 jaw chuck.
When I purchased the lathe, for some reason I wanted a bit bigger chuck than the 5" that came from Hercus.
I reckon Burnerd are tops, but I had a contact at that time who was a distributor in Australia for Rohm chucks. So I purchased at the right price.
Sadly that contact & the business have now long gone.
The last time I looked at Chucks ( a few years back) they were priced out of my range so I settled for an H&F 4" chuck which is not made to the standard of Rohm or Burnerd but one that does everything I ask of it.
I like the Griptrue chuck you own.
Also noticed the 5C collet Bison chuck out of the USA would offer a lot of good advantages. I think Ive seen them at "Little Machine Shop" in the USA.
Workholding is an important part of owning & operating a lathe.
There are lots of good equipment available.
regards
Bruce
ps Just checked & "Tools 4 Cheap" USA do carry the 5C collet chuck I mentioned above.

I reckon a four jaw is easier to use that the Griptru Bruce. Seems like a lot of going around in circles setting the latter up. If they had 4 adjustment screws rather than three I think they would be easier to use. Bison are Polish ( or used to be) and well regarded. I'm happy with the Czech TOS, I would buy another. The only down size of the TOS is that the bore is smaller than the original Hercus fitted 5" Burnerd. Would you consider a 5C setup? An ER40 spindle mounted chuck could be a better alternative given the clamping range of individual ER collets. Peter " Pipeclay" was making a screw on ER adapter for either the 9 or the 260, I can't remember which. Could be a nice alternative to a far eastern import. I wonder if Peter is still making them. Might have to dig up an old thread.BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I reckon a four jaw is easier to use that the Griptru Bruce. Seems like a lot of going around in circles setting the latter up. If they had 4 adjustment screws rather than three I think they would be easier to use. Bison are Polish ( or used to be) and well regarded. I'm happy with the Czech TOS, I would buy another. The only down size of the TOS is that the bore is smaller than the original Hercus fitted 5" Burnerd. Would you consider a 5C setup? An ER40 spindle mounted chuck could be a better alternative given the clamping range of individual ER collets. Peter " Pipeclay" was making a screw on ER adapter for either the 9 or the 260, I can't remember which. Could be a nice alternative to a far eastern import. I wonder if Peter is still making them. Might have to dig up an old thread.BT

Bob
The ER Collets seem to be very popular.
I have not had any experience with them.
I know Localale purchased a set up from Pipeclay not too long ago, so guess he is still making them.
I got a bit interested in the 5C collets because of the availability & range of sizes & lower price compared to other fixed size collets. The restriction again with the 5C collet as with other collets of this design is the workpiece needs to be accurate to be accepted & held by the collet.
regards
Bruce

I trialed out. One of peters er 32 collet chucks when I had a hercus It was pretty darn useful and Is the first on my list of projects once I level my lathe and master internal threading my new lathe has an unusual 2" 8 tpi spindle.

When it comes to work holding I personaly dislike 3 jaw chucks as I have had bad luck with them and have since become a 4 jaw convert as most of the time it only takes a few minutes to set up.

Originally Posted by Abratool

The chucks are a bit over 20 yrs old, I find using "Inox" on them is good & I keep them under the lathe covered with an oily rag.

Thanks Bruce,
I bought a 5L container of Inox for my boat's motor, so I have plenty. First I need to clean off the surface rust. Apparently this can be done under power with a long strip of emery tape once the jaws and adjusting screws are removed from the body of the chuck. The face of the chuck can be cleaned with a piece of emery stuck to a wooden handle. I'll give it a shot.
Chris

Originally Posted by jack620

Thanks Bruce,
I bought a 5L container of Inox for my boat's motor, so I have plenty. First I need to clean off the surface rust. Apparently this can be done under power with a long strip of emery tape once the jaws and adjusting screws are removed from the body of the chuck. The face of the chuck can be cleaned with a piece of emery stuck to a wooden handle. I'll give it a shot.
Chris

Chris,

Using carborundum paper glued to something wide and flat will prevent the elongating of the holes in the chuck which can happen with tape. I remove the light rust that appears from time to time on my chucks, with a Scotch Brite pad. I buy pads from a panel beater's supply shop. I favour grey pads because they are not aggressive.

Bruce's chuck looks sparkly because he has the lathe in his lounge room.

BT

Bob,
thanks, I'll get some grey scotchbrites. Do you use elbow grease or spin the chuck on the lathe under power?

Unfortunately I don't have a 3 phase outlet in the lounge.