Thread: Chuck Stops for Hercus 260 Lathe

As usual, beautiful work. Not bad for an old codger.

A nearly as old BT

Nice job Bruce.

Not drinking too much beer and whiskey help's too

Thats Latte people

Came up great, did you mean to have the same picture twice? I feel I'm missing out on something.

I hope you made a matching set for BT

Stuart

Thats nice

I wish I could machine up morse tapers like that Your top slide must have a long travel, or do you use a taper attachment ?

How did you machine the internal bore of the bung to accept the 3C collet ?

For larger work pieces I use tapered roller bearing cups in the chuck as spacers , but they tend to move around as the chuck rotates

Originally Posted by morrisman

For larger work pieces I use tapered roller bearing cups in the chuck as spacers , but they tend to move around as the chuck rotates

I know a guy with a hole in his ceiling from doing that!

Stuart

Yes it is of interest Abratool and they very noice.
The simpler one just went on my list for my small lathe(9"x 20"). I pinched a couple of pics to remind me.

Cheers.

Nicely done Bruce. In practice, how do you set the depth of the simple version? Obviously the grub screws must be tightened before placing the bung in the spindle bore. Do you use some sort of jig to set the depth stop before installing it?

P.S. How do you keep your chuck so shiny?

Nice one Bruce
Good to see the KISS principle hard at work. Should be nice and easy to use. I take it you can get them in and out with the chuck in use on?

Nice bit of turning they look great

Originally Posted by jack620

Nicely done Bruce. In practice, how do you set the depth of the simple version? Obviously the grub screws must be tightened before placing the bung in the spindle bore. Do you use some sort of jig to set the depth stop before installing it?

P.S. How do you keep your chuck so shiny?

Chris
I can set the depth by lightly pinching up the grub screws & using the tailstock to push in the depth stop, to say a rule measurement, or using a Depth Micrometer if need be.
The chuck is removed the grub screws tightened & "Bobs your Uncle"
(I am not sure if hes my uncle)
The chucks are a bit over 20 yrs old, I find using "Inox" on them is good & I keep them under the lathe covered with an oily rag.My next project is to build a couple of good wood drawers to fit under the lathe, to house all the goodies that go with the lathe.
You blokes have kept me on my toes chasing E Bay & more & more stuff, thanks.
regards
Bruce
ps Rifle specialists, use "Inox" effectively & that is where I first found out about this stuff.
For me it works
With the 3C type collet for the larger chuck its an easy matter of adjusting the stop with everything in position.

Hey Bruce,

Would you consider an extended stop that projects out the back through the draw bar handwheel? With a threaded bush installed in the handwheel bore and portion of the drawbar threaded, depth adjustment could be made then the hand wheel turned to pull up the collet and lock the stop in position. You could even do away with any threads and simply push the stop into position with only a simple bush in the handwheel to centre the stop.

Something else. Was the Rohm a Hercus option when you purchased the 260? If so, why German in preference to an English Burnerd?

Bob.

Originally Posted by morrisman

Thats nice

I wish I could machine up morse tapers like that Your top slide must have a long travel, or do you use a taper attachment ?

How did you machine the internal bore of the bung to accept the 3C collet ?

For larger work pieces I use tapered roller bearing cups in the chuck as spacers , but they tend to move around as the chuck rotates

Mike
To turn the 4 Morse Taper I used the compound slide. It has enough travel in it to do this job in one setting. A little while back I showed on a seperate post a Sine Bar set up I made for accurately setting the Compound Slide to a predetermined angle.
A photo of that set up is attached.
It produces a very accurate angle.
After turning the 4 Morse taper & without disturbing anything the Bung is drilled & bored to suit the parallel section of the rear of the 3C collet.
The Bung is then mounted in the 4 Morse of the lathe headstock, & boring continued, providing a relieved section at the front end & then the compound is set again to exactly 12 degrees using the Sine Bar. The front of the Collet Holder is then finished to size, to suit the 3C dimension
Doing it this way ensures very good concentricity.
A small grub screw 8-32 UNC is fitted to act as a key to prevent the 3C collet from rotating when the draw bar is tightened.
Accuracy measured with a tenth indicator (thanks to Ray G) was 2 tenths of a thou max.with the 3C collet.
After completing this bung, which seemed difficult at first, would now be easy.
But then I guess that applies to a lot of jobs.
regards
Bruce

[QUOTE=Abratool;1514877
After completing this bung, which seemed difficult at first, would now be easy.
But then I guess that applies to a lot of jobs.
regards
Bruce[/QUOTE]

If it's that easy why don't you make one for me. Ha Ha just bullsheeting Bruce.

How do you reckon the 1214 will shape up? Was there any temptation to go harder?

Thanks for taking the time to explain that Bruce

Your pics are a delight ! Large and clear