Thread: Cincinnati No.2 Tool and Cutter Grinder

Originally Posted by RayG

Hi RC,

Funny that, yes the bottom is bowed such that the ends touch first, but I'm thinking that might be partly the way it's supposed to be... The locking bolts are in the center so they will pull the center down anyway... so for stability of the table you would want the end to touch first... not really sure...

I doubt it. That would require accurate knowledge of just how much force was going to be used on the bolts to pull it square.

More likely a T slot has been stretched causing the table to bend up.

PDW

Hi PDW,
I dont think it has a T slot, maybe thats why?
The slot it has is in the base I think.

Hey Ray any chance of a picture or two to refresh my memory, it needs all the help it can get.

Stuart

In any case if it is bowed, Stuart will be able to flatten it out for you on the mill.... I remember seeing his milling work at the scraping class...

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi PDW,
I dont think it has a T slot, maybe thats why?
The slot it has is in the base I think.

Hey Ray any chance of a picture or two to refresh my memory, it needs all the help it can get.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

RC is just jealous...

Here's the bottom of the top table, since the picture I've done a breakup pass, so I'll get a better read on it a bit later.



You can see it's just touching at the ends, no significant signs of wear through the middle, you can still see original scraping.

Still stuck in the survey mode until I figure out what needs to be done...

Regards
Ray

See if the table is not bowed as well..... Mine was, but yours is better supported then mine.... By table I mean the bit that runs on the rollers...not the top bit...

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi PDW,
I dont think it has a T slot, maybe thats why?
The slot it has is in the base I think.

Hey Ray any chance of a picture or two to refresh my memory, it needs all the help it can get.

Stuart

Doesn't it have a single T slot down the middle of the table for clamping down the attachments?

PDW

Originally Posted by .RC.

In any case if it is bowed, Stuart will be able to flatten it out for you on the mill.... I remember seeing his milling work at the scraping class...

In my best Bart "I didnt do it"
besides flatten isnt the f word I would use for what was done to that table lol


Hi Phil,
Do you think that the table was made like that or just the casting moving? (I cant imagine the middle would wear more than the ends, but thats just a guess)(Do good castings really move like that or is that just a story?)

Originally Posted by PDW

Doesn't it have a single T slot down the middle of the table for clamping down the attachments?

Hi PDW,
Got you, Sorry I forgot all about that one and was thinking about the pivot ones. So maybe as you say that explains the bow


Stuart

Still confused a bit, but the top table is definitely bowed... ( I blame RC.. )

Here is a heavy blue on the top of the saddle, it's a bit misleading, because it was blued against the small surface plate, and it really needs to be done in sections with a longer reference.



Underneath the top table, A heavy blue, just trying to get a read on it at this stage..


Clean up the blue and start again...



I can get an 8 thou feeler gage under the center section....

I'm starting to think I've got to grind the bottom first....

Regards
Ray

Ray.

In that picture just above, can you mount an indicator reading off the top, and push down on the sub table. Trying to get a feel for how much force it takes to flex it back to flat. 8 thou over 3 feet, might not take a lot, in which case it could be O.K if it conforms to the real table.

Without clamps on the ends, there might be a reason its concave like that. 3 bolts would surely pull it flat without too much grunt.

Phil.

Hi Phil,

Just pushing in the center I can get 2-3 thou movement, so, when it's bolted on the base, it will pull down the 8 thou. I mapped the amount of the bowing and it's a fairly smooth curve from end to end.. no bumps or twists..

I'm thinking the best way to scrape the top is to do it when it's bolted down to the base.

I'd been looking at ways I could set up to regrind the top, but if the part flexes as it's mounted then I'd be wasting my time regrinding.. Also when I put it on the mag chuck the chuck, I was hoping the chuck would pull it down, it does, but not quite all the way..

PlanB

So if I remount it and indicate along the length ( bolted down in it's final position) to give me a reference line to scrape to.. I've got a length of flat channel that I've surface ground flat, that I could scrape to make a spotting master.

Still planning.....

Regards
Ray

New spindle bearings have been fitted.. mit, uber kluber grease... special thanks to Phil.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg0NtmJjfkI"]New Spindle Bearings - YouTube[/ame]

Back to the machine survey, to decide what to grind and what to scrape..

Regards
Ray

Looks good..... The bearings seem to have been worth it...

Hi .RC,

Here's one for you, can you pick the vital difference...



I picked a couple of the lower ones on ebay where they were listed as Sopko 1 1/4" 200-1 LH spindle arbors...

Regards
Ray

I see the taper per foot is different...