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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default colchester progress

    Hi some of you may all ready know this but i like machine tools and think fixing stuff can be fun.
    There is an earlier thread regarding my $700colchester master 1 1/2 here.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/op...ve-buy-141307/

    Basically it was cutting a large taper and had tons of slop in the cross slide.
    So i started to level the lathe. I wasn't getting the results i was looking for with leveling and getting the bed straight so i pulled the lathe
    off its stand to see what was going on between the lathe and base. there was a lot of built up gunk in the small gap between the base and bed
    photos of the lathe base before after some cleaning.
    SAM_0435.jpg
    SAM_0675.jpgSAM_0677.jpg

    I refitted the lathe to the base and tried to level it. Using the feet id made to get the headstock end level and then check the other end of the lathe to attempt to get the twist out of the bed.. After adding a 0.1 mm shim to one side of the tail stock the twist was reduced to around 0.06 mm over the length of the the bed.
    SAM_0433.jpg
    Regarding the cross slide slop i managed to buy a second hand cross slide screw,nut and hand wheel from the uk for $140.
    I have to say it was a great improvement. With relatively no back lash.

    Now the tapper cut on a piece of 50mm steel over 100mm is about 0.008mm
    or about 0.0003" measured with a 0 to 4"
    imperial mic. a very significant improvement.
    I found the use of the level and vee blocks sitting on the bed flats a little tedious.
    For my test cuts i used a triangular carbide insert tool( with wrong insert fitted) small cuts about 0.1mm doc

    Id like to get rid of the remaining taper and once the bed is straight there is a few options regarding head stock alignment.
    do i need to improve the 0.06mm reading on the level between both ends of the lathe.
    Maybe im just being to fussy for an old lathe. there is head stock pivot point jacking bolts to adjust head stock alignment.
    im hesitating using them with out the bed completely flat.


    SAM_0828.jpg
    SAM_0811.jpg SAM_0821.jpg SAM_0823.jpg



    SAM_0814.jpg SAM_0823.jpg SAM_0815.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #2
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Big a the tailstock end?

  4. #3
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default taper

    hi Stuart, it is bigger at the tail stock end. Only just really i tried using a o.oo2mm thickness gauge
    to measure the bar but could really get a repeatable measurement. Id post a photo but need to get
    some new battery's for the camera. I might try to measure the taper with a comparator stand.

  5. #4
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Is the bar still in the lathe?
    Do you have a 1/10th or there about metric DTI?
    Do you have any HSS tools?

    Stuart

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
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    64
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    3,566

    Default

    Are you measuring imperial and writing metric as .002mm is a very thin feeler, I would say if your able to get it in but not repeatable let it be.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
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    2,557

    Default

    Have you tried to assess bed wear? If the bed is straight - the two unworn ends read the same on the level - and it still cuts a taper I think it means either the headstock is out of alignment with the bed or the ways are worn. My money would be on the ways. Well that's where my problems were anyway.

  8. #7
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default dti and thickness gauge.

    and thickness gauge.
    Stuart i do have a metric dti and the bar is still in the machine. how would u us it?

    pipe clay i made a mistake in that post instead of o.oo2mm thickness gauge i should of
    said " indicating snap micrometer"like this one.
    http://www.sometcz.com/en/obchod/mic...-25-50-mm.html
    i was measuring in imperial and typing in metric
    i do get the point about leaving it be.

  9. #8
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    Jul 2010
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    Stuart i do have a metric dti and the bar is still in the machine. how would u us it?
    Set the DTI up on the tool post at center height, move it from one end to the other and see what it has to tell you.

    Like PC I certainly wouldnt be losing a lot of sleep over it as it is, but sometimes it interesting to find out just whats wrong less than perfect.

    Stuart

  10. #9
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    Aug 2010
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    Default

    Just to add to Stuart's point, Aaron: once you have the deviation in the horizontal plane, mount the same DI vertically above the centre of the bar and measure again (in a plane 90 deg to the first one). The comparison of the two sets of numbers will give you a bit of a handle about the wear of the bed. I would repeat these two series with a known parallel bar long enough to give you a picture of the whole bed length. You will have to mount it running as true as you can though - preferably without using the tailstock, although I have think that through a bit more... it may not matter in term of geometry but may help in terms of measuring consistency by removing the sag.....
    Just thinking aloud here - may all just be interesting hot air
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  11. #10
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default thinking

    thanks guys. i think ill go out and have another look and run those tests.
    I think in general its a good lathe ive made a few things with it and have
    liked slowly fixing up.
    aaron

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default tapper

    hi again. ok after using a sharp hhs tool and a borrowed metric mic.
    for another test cut on my colchester. I cant measure any taper so
    it looks like the machine is cutting straight. you beauty.
    ill still run the dti check's as suggested.
    any way thanks guys. im very happy with the this. A cheap at least
    50 year old lathe some work and second hand parts. Cutting as straight
    as i can measure.
    aaron

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default some progress

    the old lathe has a brand new chuck.
    Ive never had a new chuck before its good.
    chuck3.jpgSAM_0965.jpg
    you may notice on the bead at the top on the top of the chip tray.i have been testing out a new green for the lathe.
    I think its a little bright. I haven't all ways been very concerned about the paint job of old machines. All of a sudden im testing out colours ect.
    i decided to make the L0 backing plates for the chuck upgrades. that's all slowed down a little
    since i was about half way thru cutting the tapper on the second backing plate and i relished id
    set the job up backwards.

    bp2.jpgbp1.jpg

    not having any spare material i decided to plug the hole with a brake piston.
    any way silly mistake. having a drawing hanging near the lathe i think would help reduce
    stuff ups.

    the tail stock barrel isn't locking so i investigated that.
    Its a nice devise to lock the barrel. its locked in place by a key that also stops the barrel turning inside the bore of the tail stock.
    the tail stock barrel locking lever moves the key up and down to lock and release the barrel.
    IM not shore but maybe other tail stocks do it the same.

    ts2.jpgts3.jpgSAM_0972.jpg
    in the first pic you can see the worn barrel clamp cam and the worn barrell
    clamp lug.
    Is it all worth it??
    I reakon
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #13
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    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    3,277

    Default

    What was wrong with the old chuck, or is the new one just a different jaw configuration?
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  15. #14
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne, laverton
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    Default chucks

    hi Dsel how are you. i really needed a smaller 3 jaw as mine was worn out and wouldn't repeat an accurate set up.
    the replacment is not as big as i would like but was what i had.
    Plus i didnt have a 4 jaw. which i need and i have a larger 12" 3 jaw that good but its a bit big for the lathe.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi Aaron,

    You must be over the moon with your $700 Colchester!

    You took a punt and it's paid off. Fortune favours the brave. Can't help with the TS, I'll just sit back and watch.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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