Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 25
Thread: colchester progress
-
9th September 2013, 05:02 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
colchester progress
Hi some of you may all ready know this but i like machine tools and think fixing stuff can be fun.
There is an earlier thread regarding my $700colchester master 1 1/2 here.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/op...ve-buy-141307/
Basically it was cutting a large taper and had tons of slop in the cross slide.
So i started to level the lathe. I wasn't getting the results i was looking for with leveling and getting the bed straight so i pulled the lathe
off its stand to see what was going on between the lathe and base. there was a lot of built up gunk in the small gap between the base and bed
photos of the lathe base before after some cleaning.
SAM_0435.jpg
SAM_0675.jpgSAM_0677.jpg
I refitted the lathe to the base and tried to level it. Using the feet id made to get the headstock end level and then check the other end of the lathe to attempt to get the twist out of the bed.. After adding a 0.1 mm shim to one side of the tail stock the twist was reduced to around 0.06 mm over the length of the the bed.
SAM_0433.jpg
Regarding the cross slide slop i managed to buy a second hand cross slide screw,nut and hand wheel from the uk for $140.
I have to say it was a great improvement. With relatively no back lash.
Now the tapper cut on a piece of 50mm steel over 100mm is about 0.008mm
or about 0.0003" measured with a 0 to 4"
imperial mic. a very significant improvement.
I found the use of the level and vee blocks sitting on the bed flats a little tedious.
For my test cuts i used a triangular carbide insert tool( with wrong insert fitted) small cuts about 0.1mm doc
Id like to get rid of the remaining taper and once the bed is straight there is a few options regarding head stock alignment.
do i need to improve the 0.06mm reading on the level between both ends of the lathe.
Maybe im just being to fussy for an old lathe. there is head stock pivot point jacking bolts to adjust head stock alignment.
im hesitating using them with out the bed completely flat.
SAM_0828.jpg
SAM_0811.jpg SAM_0821.jpg SAM_0823.jpg
SAM_0814.jpg SAM_0823.jpg SAM_0815.jpg
-
9th September 2013 05:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
9th September 2013, 10:01 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Big a the tailstock end?
-
9th September 2013, 02:34 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
taper
hi Stuart, it is bigger at the tail stock end. Only just really i tried using a o.oo2mm thickness gauge
to measure the bar but could really get a repeatable measurement. Id post a photo but need to get
some new battery's for the camera. I might try to measure the taper with a comparator stand.
-
9th September 2013, 02:45 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Is the bar still in the lathe?
Do you have a 1/10th or there about metric DTI?
Do you have any HSS tools?
Stuart
-
9th September 2013, 03:11 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- sydney
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 3,566
Are you measuring imperial and writing metric as .002mm is a very thin feeler, I would say if your able to get it in but not repeatable let it be.
-
9th September 2013, 03:46 PM #6Distracted Member
- Join Date
- May 2010
- Location
- Lower Lakes SA
- Age
- 58
- Posts
- 2,557
Have you tried to assess bed wear? If the bed is straight - the two unworn ends read the same on the level - and it still cuts a taper I think it means either the headstock is out of alignment with the bed or the ways are worn. My money would be on the ways. Well that's where my problems were anyway.
-
9th September 2013, 06:36 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
dti and thickness gauge.
and thickness gauge.
Stuart i do have a metric dti and the bar is still in the machine. how would u us it?
pipe clay i made a mistake in that post instead of o.oo2mm thickness gauge i should of
said " indicating snap micrometer"like this one.
http://www.sometcz.com/en/obchod/mic...-25-50-mm.html
i was measuring in imperial and typing in metric
i do get the point about leaving it be.
-
9th September 2013, 07:58 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Set the DTI up on the tool post at center height, move it from one end to the other and see what it has to tell you.
Like PC I certainly wouldnt be losing a lot of sleep over it as it is, but sometimes it interesting to find out just whatswrongless than perfect.
Stuart
-
9th September 2013, 10:52 PM #9
Just to add to Stuart's point, Aaron: once you have the deviation in the horizontal plane, mount the same DI vertically above the centre of the bar and measure again (in a plane 90 deg to the first one). The comparison of the two sets of numbers will give you a bit of a handle about the wear of the bed. I would repeat these two series with a known parallel bar long enough to give you a picture of the whole bed length. You will have to mount it running as true as you can though - preferably without using the tailstock, although I have think that through a bit more... it may not matter in term of geometry but may help in terms of measuring consistency by removing the sag.....
Just thinking aloud here - may all just be interesting hot airCheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
-
9th September 2013, 11:32 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
thinking
thanks guys. i think ill go out and have another look and run those tests.
I think in general its a good lathe ive made a few things with it and have
liked slowly fixing up.
aaron
-
13th September 2013, 05:09 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
tapper
hi again. ok after using a sharp hhs tool and a borrowed metric mic.
for another test cut on my colchester. I cant measure any taper so
it looks like the machine is cutting straight. you beauty.
ill still run the dti check's as suggested.
any way thanks guys. im very happy with the this. A cheap at least
50 year old lathe some work and second hand parts. Cutting as straight
as i can measure.
aaron
-
24th January 2014, 04:58 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
some progress
the old lathe has a brand new chuck.
Ive never had a new chuck before its good.
chuck3.jpgSAM_0965.jpg
you may notice on the bead at the top on the top of the chip tray.i have been testing out a new green for the lathe.
I think its a little bright. I haven't all ways been very concerned about the paint job of old machines. All of a sudden im testing out colours ect.
i decided to make the L0 backing plates for the chuck upgrades. that's all slowed down a little
since i was about half way thru cutting the tapper on the second backing plate and i relished id
set the job up backwards.
bp2.jpgbp1.jpg
not having any spare material i decided to plug the hole with a brake piston.
any way silly mistake. having a drawing hanging near the lathe i think would help reduce
stuff ups.
the tail stock barrel isn't locking so i investigated that.
Its a nice devise to lock the barrel. its locked in place by a key that also stops the barrel turning inside the bore of the tail stock.
the tail stock barrel locking lever moves the key up and down to lock and release the barrel.
IM not shore but maybe other tail stocks do it the same.
ts2.jpgts3.jpgSAM_0972.jpg
in the first pic you can see the worn barrel clamp cam and the worn barrell
clamp lug.
Is it all worth it??
I reakon
-
24th January 2014, 08:56 AM #13
What was wrong with the old chuck, or is the new one just a different jaw configuration?
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
-
30th January 2014, 01:43 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2010
- Location
- melbourne, laverton
- Posts
- 1,469
chucks
hi Dsel how are you. i really needed a smaller 3 jaw as mine was worn out and wouldn't repeat an accurate set up.
the replacment is not as big as i would like but was what i had.
Plus i didnt have a 4 jaw. which i need and i have a larger 12" 3 jaw that good but its a bit big for the lathe.
-
1st February 2014, 06:41 AM #15GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2,951
Hi Aaron,
You must be over the moon with your $700 Colchester!
You took a punt and it's paid off. Fortune favours the brave. Can't help with the TS, I'll just sit back and watch.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
Similar Threads
-
A box in progress
By Shedhand in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 30Last Post: 13th October 2011, 05:29 PM -
Progress - where are you at?
By Sebastiaan56 in forum MUSICAL INSTRUMENTSReplies: 95Last Post: 29th April 2010, 03:23 PM -
Progress...
By Malibu in forum MUSICAL INSTRUMENTSReplies: 69Last Post: 10th April 2007, 10:42 AM -
More progress,but ----
By jacko in forum WOODWORK PICSReplies: 7Last Post: 17th August 2005, 10:05 AM -
A little progress
By jacko in forum WOODWORK PICSReplies: 15Last Post: 6th August 2005, 07:45 AM