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Thread: Collet Chuck for the Lathe
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15th January 2015, 12:53 PM #31Senior Member
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15th January 2015, 07:00 PM #32
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15th January 2015, 07:47 PM #33I have a spare shaft if you want, for what it cost me, $15.00 plus postage. The collets I use are ER25 metric, as that is what came with the mill when it was given to me.
In regard to the air compressor, I had a couple of those and hooked them together for spraying, only just kept up. If you go to the local tip you might find a couple or more . Early last year I gave a tank from one away, as well as a NEW top assy. that was given to me the year before. I gave a friend my old one, that made 7 that he had to repair, a lot of them it's the head gasket (if you could call it that) that lets go, or the valves.
I went to trash converters to look for a larger unit, they wanted $450 for a S/H unit, went to the local Auto pro and got a brand new one with warranty and delivered for $399 (same unit) .purloinedtraded goods.
An email came from CTC Tools today. 6 - 9 weeks delivery. I should be starting vintage soon and all I will have time for will be to open parcels and look at the contents, so that is not really a problem. I have decided to go with their ER40 collet set. They have a 10% sale for January. I had enquired about the collet set, a pair of collet nuts, an MT4 ER40 collet chuck and a Microadjustable Angle Block. I have now added 2 sets (5) 30mm grinding wheels, a set of 4mm needle files and an electronic digital 0-1/0-25 micrometer.
If your air tank is leaking due to corrosion I strongly suggest you stop using. The rust weakens the tank and it will catastrophically fail eventually. They go off like a bomb when they fail. People have been killed and maimed when their air tanks have exploded.
Dean
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15th January 2015, 08:57 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
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Unless you bore the back of your collet chuck taper larger than required you will not be able to use the wheels you have unless you dress them down quite a lot.
Are you able to achieve a good finish with your lathe tooling ? If so just use different grades of emery and oil to polish the bore.
If you can't achieve a good finish with your lathe tooling I think it will be a long drawn out process.
Even the pictured chuck that has had the taper ground with the die grinder doesn't look very good from the partial picture taken of it , it appears to have a lot of vibration or wheel bounce in it.
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15th January 2015, 09:17 PM #35GOLD MEMBER
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I had a very fine stone in it, it came out polished for the first 2 mm, but I think I got a bit aggressive first time around, as it broke . I ended up having to use a very coarse stone, hence the finish. Will go to the green shed next week to get a couple of fine stones and redo it.
Kryn
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15th January 2015, 10:54 PM #36
Thanks for that info PC.
I don't know what sort of finish I will get. The steel I have decided to use is a mystery steel, but it was/is a machined shaft that looks like it should be made from a decent material. Only time will tell. My lathe does produce a reasonable finish, but most of my work is with ms. Maybe I can improve on that finish.
Part of this process is to try out new things and see what works and what doesn't.
Dean
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