Thread: Collet Chuck for the Lathe

Hi Dean,
The drive plate may be CI so welding may not be that simple.

If you think you will need larger sizes and not smaller i would look at an ER50 set from Taiwan Tools. They go from 10mm-34mm, and you only need 12 collets as they cover 2mm each. the downside is they are $15 each. http://www.taiwantool.com.tw/product...a02c=210560005

Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

Hi Dean,
The drive plate may be CI so welding may not be that simple.

If you think you will need larger sizes and not smaller i would look at an ER50 set from Taiwan Tools. They go from 10mm-34mm, and you only need 12 collets as they cover 2mm each. the downside is they are $15 each. http://www.taiwantool.com.tw/product...a02c=210560005

Cheers,
Ew

I was not going to weld the drive plate. I will still keep it intact so it may be returned to its normal state. All I will need to do is drill and tap it.

I would use a thick plate as the mounting base and press and weld the round stock into it.

I meant to make it as per quote and this would then be bolted to the drive plate. I would leave a ring at the back to locate into the bore of the drive plate to centre it. I would probably loctite the bolts to prevent them moving, but they would still be able to be removed later.

Thanks for the reminder about ER50 having a 2mm grip range. This does make them more viable, but still quite a bit more expensive. If I bought ER40 collets from CTC, I would also get an MT4 chuck so they could be used in my mill. I am not sure how much use an ER40 set would be in the mill, but I am aware that the ER50 set would be very useful in the lathe. I see that the price you quoted is in $US. What is the freight cost like at Taiwan Tools? Damn computer. It keeps dropping letters when I hold down the shift key. I have seen the results of this in my posts a number of times in the past. Cannot blame it for all the other faults tho.

Can someone tell me the OD of an ER40 chuck please? Oh, and ER50 chuck as well. I have some sort of spindle in my steel stock that is being saved for a special job. This may be it. The only piece of 65mm stock I have available. I measured it for an MT6/ER collet chuck but not quite big enough. The 65mm diam is not very long, and from memory knurled.

Dean

Dean

Ok, i understand now.

ER40 nut is an M50x1.5 thread, i can't remember the size of the ER50.

Mick Moyles in Sydney sells D1-6 backplates. IIRC approx $130 each. Not too bad considering.

You can also buy a MT5 ER40 collet chuck for cheap. Buy a 6-5 reducer and done.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281338172...84.m1423.l2649

Of course now you're at risk of tolerance stacking giving you more runout.

Making one is a good way to go IMO. I'd go at least ER40 as ER32 doesn't go big enough.

I have a Pratt-Bernard EC series collet chuck and it's almost a permanent fixture on the Chipmaster, I use it all the time. I keep thinking of fitting one to the Monarch CY but I'd only gain the ability to handle round bar from 35mm to 40mm over what I already have so I haven't bothered. I have a spare L-00 spindle nose collet chuck awaiting butchery if ever I have the need....

PDW

Hi Dean, if you look in the"your latest project", you will see that I made one for my ER25 collets, the same way. Post 1371 is what you'll be looking for.
I marked a point on mine so that it always went back on at the same location. Seeing you already have ER32 collets, why not make one to suit the 32s, then later if and when you need them you could make one for the 40 or 50 as required. At least, it will give you something to do at work.
Kryn

Would something like this work for your situation? I made it a while ago and mainly use it in the 4 jaw for eccentrics. Its drilled right through for long stock.

One thing against the chuck PDW linked to is if you are doing long work you may be* limited in dia that can pass through the draw bar. This may not worry you of course.

I have three ER32 chucks for my lathe. MT5 draw bar like "thing" with a 19mmish though hole, a flange mount mounted on a camloc backing plate and shaft mount for eccentrics as Bobs above.

Stuart


* I dont know the thread size on the draw bar

Originally Posted by Stustoys

One thing against the chuck PDW linked to is if you are doing long work you may be* limited in dia that can pass through the draw bar.

True, I hadn't considered that. I've got it bookmarked as I'm going to buy one for my HBM and only need it for tool holding, not feeding bar stock.

Making one in situ is going to give the best results I think.

PDW

Mick Moyles in Sydney sells D1-6 backplates. IIRC approx $130 each. Not too bad considering.

I was waiting for something like that to come up. How things change over time. Probably just knowledge rather than availability.

It is worth considering, tho as I already have one there may not be any point.

You can also buy a MT5 ER40 collet chuck for cheap. Buy a 6-5 reducer and done.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281338172...84.m1423.l2649

Of course now you're at risk of tolerance stacking giving you more runout.

That is what I thought. I did consider this, tho not with ER50.

Making one is a good way to go IMO. I'd go at least ER40 as ER32 doesn't go big enough.

I will go at least ER40. ER50 would be even better tho. I could have used collets up to this size on a number of occasions in the past.

Hi Dean, if you look in the"your latest project", you will see that I made one for my ER25 collets, the same way. I marked a point on mine so that it always went back on at the same location. Seeing you already have ER32 collets, why not make one to suit the 32s, then later if and when you need them you could make one for the 40 or 50 as required. At least, it will give you something to do at work.
Kryn

I will take another look when I get time. I do recall another collet chuck in that thread now that you mention it.

I only have one D 1-6 back/drive plate and my plan was to make this a semi permanant job.

Unfortunately all I can do at work is cerebral metalwork and there is a limit to how many chicken scratch plans one can draw up.

Dean

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

I will take another look when I get time. I do recall another collet chuck in that thread now that you mention it.

I only have one D 1-6 back/drive plate and my plan was to make this a semi permanant job.

Unfortunately all I can do at work is cerebral metalwork and there is a limit to how many chicken scratch plans one can draw up.

Dean

Dean 1371 is the thread you'll be looking for, it was made to go on a little 7 X 12 lathe and goes all the way through,
Kryn

Originally Posted by bob ward

Would something like this work for your situation? I made it a while ago and mainly use it in the 4 jaw for eccentrics. Its drilled right through for long stock.

I think it would be quicker and easier to just mount a camlock chuck. I don't have a lot of practice with 4 jaw work. Most of the recent work has been for eccentrics. I am not sure tho, how much work I would have for such a chuck. I could always make an MT4 taper with parallel OD to fit the ER32 chuck in if I had enough need.

My plan for an MT6 mounted collet chuck was to use a tube drawbar. Mt6 and 52mm spindle gives a decent diameter to play with.

Dean 1371 is the thread you'll be looking for, it was made to go on a little 7 X 12 lathe and goes all the way through,
Kryn

I did find it Kryn, and had a look.

I also had a look at Mick Moyles site. You must get a good discount PDW. The price I found was a bit more than $130.

Dean

Hi Guys,

Treat this link with caution ! It tried to install something on my machine.


http://www.taiwantool.com.tw/product...a02c=210560005

Another question that has come to mind. Setting the taper for the collet chuck.

The idea I came up with is to carefully turn a shaft in the lathe to the diameter of the max size of the largest collet. Slide the collet on as it would be facing when in the chuck. Indicate and adjust taper to suit. The collet should be a firm fit on the shaft. I hope my TTA will adjust to 8 deg.

Does anybody have any other ideas?

Dean

Just bought a 20mm collet and mounted a 20mm shaft in my lathe. The collet was relatively snug, certainly wasnt wobbling about or at the point where the dial indicator was going to push it around. I dialed off that, did the last cut and then blued up the inside of the taper. I pushed the collet in with the 20mm shaft still in it and it came out with a pretty even spread of blue throughout the taper, so I called it done. I didnt bother with the 30° taper, its so short that I just set the compound slide off the guage on the lathe and got on with it. Blueing looks to be fine on it too, but I assume youll be buying the nut.