Thread: Condensation problem!

Originally Posted by Ben Dono

Thanks guys!
I feel a little better knowing that I'm not the only one with this problem! Dave, I know you take real good care of your tools so I will take all that on board.

At the moment I have it oiled and wrapped in old sheets with the lamp on the inside.. Hopefully that will provide just enough heat!

I was quite upset about it yesterday... Water was dribbling off everything. It's not a cold today so I think I have a few days to sort it out!

Hi Ben, thanks for the complement. I do my best to keep them all in good nick.
It sounds like you have it really bad at the moment,
The light is mainly to warm the machine itself, and just as Simon said, just make sure there is no chance of any fire with it.

It is upsetting to walk in and find surface rust on our machines. I stress over it as I don't have the money to buy more and like to keep the shinny bits shinny.
I see machines like mine advertised on ebay that are stored in carports etc and are covered in surface rust. My lathe is 8-9 years old and still looks new, but I do have a few small pits in a couple of spots where I hadn't been in the shed for a few months and it started.
If it's long term I would also recommend grease and I have done this myself. Even if you oil the vertical ways the oil will run down leaving the top part dry and prone to rust, where the grease stays put. Even for short term like Bob does if you don't mind wiping it off as you don't need it real thick.
Also with bench top mills the heads only come down so far, and the Z axis way is not all used, these parts can be painted with the cheap paint as well to keep them and like I said above, it can be removed easy if needed.

Dave

A canvas tarp will not condensate underneith as much as a plastic/poly tarp (try chucking something in a plastic bag and see what happens).

Have been using lanolin spray on the mill on non critical surfaces with reasonable success.

Sealing a conc floor, cant say I had thought of that.

When I built my shed I got a quote from a concreter to do a slab. He gave me a really good deal as he knew me and allowed me to labour for him. What I didn't tell him was that I had planned on putting black plastic under the slab. I didn't think it was a big deal but it means the concrete takes heaps longer to cure (apparently). Needless to say, they first started pouring the slab at 8 am and he was still working the bull float at 10pm! I don't think I was very popular. Great job though. I also put a clear sealer on top. Lanko stuff from memory. I did it so that spill would wipe up easily but I never thought about it keeping the moisture down. Bonus!

Simon

Condensation can be a pain.

I can only echo Simon's and others comments about water proofing the concrete slab. Mine has black plastic under it.

I have a friend whose ancient cottage did not have water-proofing under the concrete floor - they added 2" of concrete with a water proof layer. Huge difference to liveability.

I'm amazed how garages down here are still built with out a damp course under the concrete. I did not realise the plastic affected the curing of the concrete - probably explains why my effort in the shed looks like the ocean blue -- but it is dry now!

OK my shed is also lined and insulated.
Nicely Comfortable

The amount of moisture released from a concrete slab is amazing, try this: Place a largish piece of flat steel plate on the floor, lift it after a few days and have a look, if it hasn't been sealed and conditions are right, the concrete will be darker. Even after concrete has "cured", it will still soak up moisture given the right conditions and expel it again when conditions are right. I can remember when I was living in Perth, I had occasion to unbolt my vice stand and remove it to another area, the base of the plate was badly pitted with rust and the concrete under was laden with moisture, this was 4 years after the shed had gone up..

I think one of the tricks that they use in the UK is small stick on resistance heaters that are left on overnight (bit like the light bulb only not as hot = less fire risk).
Resistance Technology electric surface heating, trace heating
The other option I can think of is if you can seal up your shed properly, there are dehumidifiers available. If you ran one of those on the colder nights it would suck the moisture out of the air before it could condense on you rmachines.
X-Dry Home Dehumidifier | Desiccant X-Dry Dehumidifier
Both these ideas use power though.

Michael
(have never done either of these and have no relationship to these companies)

Must be lucky where I am,usually 2 to 3 frosts a week in Winter,open shed none of this surface rust on machines.

My slab has plastic under it and the roof has foil, I have only had condensation on the machines once in five years. The skylights drip after a frosty morning, there is enough oil on the lathe ways to repel that, the other machines are not in the drip zone. The open sides are the problem blankets are the easiest solution with plenty of way oil, for longer term there is a lanolin spray which is good at repelling water.

Heat trace would work even if it is overkill.

A slow combustion heater slowly cranked in the corner and left on low overnight would be safe, keep the place warm and probably fix most problems. It's a nice project using some truck brake drums, or buntings sell coonara's. The smallest they sell is only about $700.

I find that the only problem with the cold weather is when I want to paint something. It never dries when using a brush and if I spray paint, if gets a peeled, almost hammered look. The can does say not to use below 10 deg! I drag out an electric heater and warm the parts and the paint up first if I want to paint. PITA

Simon

Bunnings, not buntings! Stupid computer....

Hi,
When i lived down the coast as a teen i had no end to problems with rust but here i have never had any rust except maybe where a drop of sweat might land on a bright clean surface. I do have plastic under the slab, the concreter hated me for it, like Simon said it took ages to go off, i think that concreters like to be home for lunch..... I also have complete insulation, roof and walls, but it normally doesnt get above 10 in there at this time of year. Actually often it is warmer in the walk in coolroom than out......