Thread: Connection Suggestion - A Centring Scope Wiring Question

Enjoy

Originally Posted by Stustoys

See how it goes Bob.
If it will make it fit, cut the outside track twice, move a resistor and add a wire, you can remove the red area of the CB(those wire saw blades do a pretty good job on CB) . If it would suit the running of the figure 8 wire better, you could move all the cuts etc around 90 degree and remove the bottom section instead.

Failing that I have more LEDs in the post.



Stuart

I haven't butchered the LED disc Stu, I'm afraid of ruining it. I finished machining the brass bits this afternoon and fortunately I had the foresight to cut a couple of notches in the internal sleeve before I parted the thing off. Parting off with a carbide insert meant that I spent and hour or so fettling the thread with needle files before it would screw in easily. Should have used the HSS in the rear tool post.

I have gained about 8.5mm of working space under the scope, all I need to do now is blacken the brass then move on to making a plug and socket.

BT

Looks great Bob, but it makes the PCB look even uglier than I remember it
You wouldn't be able to mask off the LED's and give it a coat of matt black for me would you?
A tub of black cardboard might be needed through the hole in the PCB to the poly.

Stuart

p.s. The DC to DC converters work(shouldn't really came as a surprise). Though as yet I haven't bothered to test how long it runs for. Maybe one day if I ever get around to Marcel MkII

I thought that lamp reflections off the polycarbonate might have been an issue but there are none. The illumination is even and I'd say intense enough even at 9 volts. I have had it on for about 60 minutes and the poly is still cold so I don't reckon there will be a heat issue either.

The socket to replace the wire hanging out of the body is a bit of an issue though. To accommodate a screw-in 2.1mm socket the ferrule has to be pretty large. I had been thinking that I could possibly reverse things and have the plug mounted on the scope inside a sleeve..........

Attached are photos of an Isoma mounted on a Schaublin centring attachment. The plug looks like it could be used on a toaster. I was keen to come up with something a bit more restrained.

BT

Hi BT,

Whats the dia of the the hole in the bezel(?) you currently have? Could a clever fella like yourself make this fit?
Is a 3.3mm socket. Body about 19mm long. small dia 7.6mm large dia 7.9mm.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi BT,

Whats the dia of the the hole in the bezel(?) you currently have? Could a clever fella like yourself make this fit?
Is a 3.3mm socket. Body about 19mm long. small dia 7.6mm large dia 7.9mm.

Stuart

The diameter is appealing and the length tolerable. Hmmmm. From where did you procure it Stu?

I have to have some way of not twisting the wiring when the socket is screwed into the scope body. Here's my latest idea based on a threaded 2.5mm socket I picked up at Altronics this afternoon. They had no stock of the lookalike 2.1mm socket. The thread is weird, 305 thou OD and 32 TPI. I thought HTF am I going to screwcut an internal thread that size. Then I remembered I had some tiny German made 55 degree boring bars. I would remake the socket housing from brass so that I could colour it to match the nose.

The drawing will hopefully suggest my current thoughts. The socket screws into a bush which is held in place in the socket housing with a pretty small grub screw. There is enough room within the scope around the mirror tube to conceal a couple of inches of wire.

BT

Its just cut out of an inline socket.
Couldnt you just let the "pcb" hang, allowing it to spin while you screw the socket in?
I'll see if I have a smaller one.

Stuart

Hi Guys,

Not been around for a while, but have tried to catch up with this thread.
Just a wild idea ! Could you use something like a pair of jumper pins and a header socket on the end of the power cable to make a connection. Similar to the way wires are connected to the circuit board in a computer ?
thumbnail_Ext-2700-081.jpg

These are very cheap and plentiful. You could also use the audio lead from a computer with the sockets already fastened on.