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4th September 2014, 06:46 AM #61
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4th September 2014 06:46 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th September 2014, 08:04 AM #62
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Enjoy
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5th October 2014, 08:31 PM #63
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I haven't butchered the LED disc Stu, I'm afraid of ruining it. I finished machining the brass bits this afternoon and fortunately I had the foresight to cut a couple of notches in the internal sleeve before I parted the thing off. Parting off with a carbide insert meant that I spent and hour or so fettling the thread with needle files before it would screw in easily.
Should have used the HSS in the rear tool post.
I have gained about 8.5mm of working space under the scope, all I need to do now is blacken the brass then move on to making a plug and socket.
BT
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5th October 2014, 09:32 PM #64
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Looks great Bob, but it makes the PCB look even uglier than I remember it
You wouldn't be able to mask off the LED's and give it a coat of matt black for me would you?
A tub of black cardboard might be needed through the hole in the PCB to the poly.
Stuart
p.s. The DC to DC converters work(shouldn't really came as a surprise). Though as yet I haven't bothered to test how long it runs for. Maybe one day if I ever get around to Marcel MkII
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11th October 2014, 08:04 PM #65
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Up and running well. Thank you Stu.
I thought that lamp reflections off the polycarbonate might have been an issue but there are none. The illumination is even and I'd say intense enough even at 9 volts. I have had it on for about 60 minutes and the poly is still cold so I don't reckon there will be a heat issue either.
The socket to replace the wire hanging out of the body is a bit of an issue though. To accommodate a screw-in 2.1mm socket the ferrule has to be pretty large. I had been thinking that I could possibly reverse things and have the plug mounted on the scope inside a sleeve..........
Attached are photos of an Isoma mounted on a Schaublin centring attachment. The plug looks like it could be used on a toaster. I was keen to come up with something a bit more restrained.
BT
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12th October 2014, 12:46 AM #66
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Hi BT,
Whats the dia of the the hole in the bezel(?) you currently have? Could a clever fella like yourself make this fit?
Is a 3.3mm socket. Body about 19mm long. small dia 7.6mm large dia 7.9mm.
Stuart
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12th October 2014, 08:08 PM #67
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The diameter is appealing and the length tolerable. Hmmmm. From where did you procure it Stu?
I have to have some way of not twisting the wiring when the socket is screwed into the scope body. Here's my latest idea based on a threaded 2.5mm socket I picked up at Altronics this afternoon. They had no stock of the lookalike 2.1mm socket. The thread is weird, 305 thou OD and 32 TPI. I thought HTF am I going to screwcut an internal thread that size. Then I remembered I had some tiny German made 55 degree boring bars. I would remake the socket housing from brass so that I could colour it to match the nose.
The drawing will hopefully suggest my current thoughts. The socket screws into a bush which is held in place in the socket housing with a pretty small grub screw. There is enough room within the scope around the mirror tube to conceal a couple of inches of wire.
BT
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12th October 2014, 09:49 PM #68
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Its just cut out of an inline socket.
Couldnt you just let the "pcb" hang, allowing it to spin while you screw the socket in?
I'll see if I have a smaller one.
Stuart
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12th October 2014, 10:37 PM #69
Hi Guys,
Not been around for a while, but have tried to catch up with this thread.
Just a wild idea ! Could you use something like a pair of jumper pins and a header socket on the end of the power cable to make a connection. Similar to the way wires are connected to the circuit board in a computer ?
thumbnail_Ext-2700-081.jpg
These are very cheap and plentiful. You could also use the audio lead from a computer with the sockets already fastened on.Best Regards:
BaronJ.
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