Thread: Connection Suggestion - A Centring Scope Wiring Question

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Great to see its pointing where it should!

You could use surface mount LEDs and likely not need to use any Z if you think its needed.
If you use a light you'll need a circle and a donut(though it wont matter at all if the donut is poly)

I have plenty of clear 1mm ploy if the glass doesnt pan out.

Stuart

Stu,

When I started fiddling I just touched a tiny centre drill I had collet mounted in the spindle on some brass sheet that I'd Artline blued. Through the scope the touch measured 0.25mm in diameter, a crater. For illumination I used the halogen lamp I have mounted on the mill. It cast shadows in the crater that initially made me think the scope was out of alignment. Aligning the scope with a tiny dot that was only just larger than the intersection of the crosshairs and rotating the scope 180 degrees confirmed that the mirror was as it should be. I like the idea of an independent ring light. There are plenty on eBay but they tend to be pretty large with IDs around 60mm.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I like the idea of an independent ring light. There are plenty on eBay but they tend to be pretty large with IDs around 60mm.

I was thinking you could fit the leds inside what you have. The donut was just to stop any reflection. Thinking about it a little more, as the LEDs would take up so little space you could likely just stick a short length of black tube to the glass/poly.

Whats the Dia?
I was thinking start with something like this.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50-60LM-7...8e3a8dd&_uhb=1
The picture is good enough the see the tracks on the pcb. You just need to move the 4 inner Leds. Assuming they are powerful enough.

Stuart

Hello Bob,

I would agree the SM leds would be good for lighting ! But not those, unless you want to go blind.

I was going to suggest that you could use the body of the scope as one terminal and make an insulated pin for the other. Then you could use a terry clip to supply power to the bulbs or leds. If you use leds you could put the ballast resistor in the supply lead, that way you wouldn't have to worry about fitting it inside the housing or having a short circuit do damage to the power supply or the lead.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

But not those, unless you want to go blind.

??
What the?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

??
What the?

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

Those are the led assembly's for GU10 50 Watt replacements. At close range they are so bright that they blind you. Also there is no point in trying to run them at a reduced voltage because they become more and more yellow as the current falls.

One way of getting cheap white led's is out of a dollar torch, the ones that have three led's in them and run on three AAA cells.
Now having said that you can also get replacement led bulbs that will replace the incandescent bulbs in that centring scope.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Stuart,

Those are the led assembly's for GU10 50 Watt replacements. At close range they are so bright that they blind you. Also there is no point in trying to run them at a reduced voltage because they become more and more yellow as the current falls.

One way of getting cheap white led's is out of a dollar torch, the ones that have three led's in them and run on three AAA cells.
Now having said that you can also get replacement led bulbs that will replace the incandescent bulbs in that centring scope.

Thanks Baron,

I just looked - E5 Midget Screw Base LED Light 12 Volt DC Low Voltage - Automotive LED Lights - Other LED Lights - LEDLight

Unfortunately this seller has a $250 minimum order for international sales so I will continue looking.

Bob.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Those are the led assembly's for GU10 50 Watt replacements. At close range they are so bright that they blind you. Also there is no point in trying to run them at a reduced voltage because they become more and more yellow as the current falls.

Hi Baron,
I'm always a little skeptical about the powers claimed but people selling leds so I tend to round up a little. Happy to take your word for it though. Could make something up only using 6 of the leds easy enough, but that might still be to much?

How about this one? or have I gone to far in the other direction now?
1X 40mm BMW Angel Eyes 12 SMD LED Ring CAR Light White BAW | eBay

40mm is a little to big I think(I thought my first link was smaller than 48mm ). might be able to turn it down.

Hi Bob,
those bulbs remind me I have to do something about the lights on the Wickman.


Stuart

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Thanks Baron,

I just looked - E5 Midget Screw Base LED Light 12 Volt DC Low Voltage - Automotive LED Lights - Other LED Lights - LEDLight

Unfortunately this seller has a $250 minimum order for international sales so I will continue looking.

Bob.

Hi Bob,

Yes those were the things that I was thinking of. If you are feeling brave you could always make your own.

You should be able to buy white 5 mm led's locally for around 30 cents apiece. Carefully crush out the glass from a bulb and solder the led into the screwed part of the body. I've done this with mes bulbs. The trick is to clear the solder from the centre pip and drill a 1 mm hole in the base between the pip insulator and the bottom thread. Feed the led leads through, making sure that you get them the right way round. I make the pip the positive feed. Then just before you solder the leads, a tiny dab of epoxy resin, araldite in my case, placed into the case, then push the led in place and leave to set. Solder the leads and test. Don't forget the ballast resistor. Anywhere between 470 to 1200 ohms will do. I'm lazy and use a 3 volt 2032 battery without a resistor to test. This works because the current is limited by the battery.

If you get stuck shout out.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Baron,
I'm always a little skeptical about the powers claimed but people selling leds so I tend to round up a little. Happy to take your word for it though. Could make something up only using 6 of the leds easy enough, but that might still be to much?

How about this one? or have I gone to far in the other direction now?
1X 40mm BMW Angel Eyes 12 SMD LED Ring CAR Light White BAW | eBay

40mm is a little to big I think(I thought my first link was smaller than 48mm ). might be able to turn it down.

Hi Bob,
those bulbs remind me I have to do something about the lights on the Wickman.


Stuart

Hi Stuart,

I don't know about those. Brightness is relative, you wouldn't get that close to them in normal use so I would think that they may be too bright. The thing to do would be to setup some sort of test rig. I did try one of those led GU10 4 Watt bulbs as illumination on the mill. It was so bright that I was left seeing a remnant image of the led's for ages. The other thing I found was the individual led's reflected from the work surface creating bright spots. They also get quite hot. Not as bad as a 50 W bulb but hot enough not to want to hold them for long !

Just out of interest I was reading an article recently about the use of these led lights on cars where the lights are used to transmit and receive data from the vehicle. The article described the use of this to enable the police to trigger a kill switch to stop a car that was been pursued.

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hi Bob,

Yes those were the things that I was thinking of. If you are feeling brave you could always make your own.

You should be able to buy white 5 mm led's locally for around 30 cents apiece. Carefully crush out the glass from a bulb and solder the led into the screwed part of the body. I've done this with mes bulbs. The trick is to clear the solder from the centre pip and drill a 1 mm hole in the base between the pip insulator and the bottom thread. Feed the led leads through, making sure that you get them the right way round. I make the pip the positive feed. Then just before you solder the leads, a tiny dab of epoxy resin, araldite in my case, placed into the case, then push the led in place and leave to set. Solder the leads and test. Don't forget the ballast resistor. Anywhere between 470 to 1200 ohms will do. I'm lazy and use a 3 volt 2032 battery without a resistor to test. This works because the current is limited by the battery.

If you get stuck shout out.

Sounds like a good idea. I have tiny globes in dash of my cars. 3mm diameter 12v with leads. They come on plastic holders with the leads just wrapped around the base to make contacts. Easy to replace the globe, but I have not found replacements anywhere. They cost $5 from Ford and $9 from Toyota. I plan to use LEDs in future.

The heat created by LED lights is produced by the driver/heatsink. This can usually be located elsewhere. The newer DOB (Driver on board) type not so easy.

Dean

Well I've rolled the dice on the $1.79 one .
I'll see how it goes.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

Sounds like a good idea. I have tiny globes in dash of my cars. 3mm diameter 12v with leads. They come on plastic holders with the leads just wrapped around the base to make contacts. Easy to replace the globe, but I have not found replacements anywhere. They cost $5 from Ford and $9 from Toyota. I plan to use LEDs in future.

The heat created by LED lights is produced by the driver/heatsink. This can usually be located elsewhere. The newer DOB (Driver on board) type not so easy.

Dean

Hi Dean,

Don't be deceived thinking led's don't get hot ! Ones like the GU10 on the aluminium PCB certainly do. I've had my fingers burnt several times holding them whilst testing. The heatsink is designed to get the heat away from the led and dissipate it into the air. The small ones don't get anywhere near hot enough to burn you.

When you make the replacement bulbs for your car, don't forget to include the ballast resistor ! It's needed to limit the current into the led. For the small ones 10 to 15 milliampere is common. I don't know the type of bulb you refer to but you should be able to put a surface mount resistor inside the plastic bit, in series with one lead.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Well I've rolled the dice on the $1.79 one .
I'll see how it goes.

Stuart

Hi Stuart,

When you get it let me know. I would be very interested in your experience with it.

Thanks:

Hi Bob,

Did you get any further with the wiring for your centring scope ?