Thanks: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 9 of 9
Thread: Correct way to make this
-
24th April 2014, 02:33 PM #1
Correct way to make this
I had a go at making a sander mill as per big shed. I turned the part that will take the pen barrel first, got it to the perfect diameter for slimlines and then chucked this part to turn down the part that will go into the drill, lathe etc. i ended up with approx 7 to 8 thous of runout at the end. I could not get a live centre into the end, the toolpost kept getting in the way. I'm only an occasional user, what would be the best way to turn something simple like this?
sander mill.jpg
-
24th April 2014 02:33 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
24th April 2014, 02:36 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
You used a three jaw chuck?
Stuart
-
24th April 2014, 02:38 PM #3
Yep.
-
24th April 2014, 02:40 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,775
Do you have a 4 jaw small enough to grip it and a DTI?
-
24th April 2014, 03:18 PM #5
-
24th April 2014, 03:25 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 2,951
Hi Tiger,
I'm assuming the runout has come from the fact that you turned one part and then removed it from the chuck, re-chucked the newly turned part and turned down the other sections?
If this is the case then that's the issue. Once you turn something in a 3 jaw and remove it, you will loose concentricity. On some parts where the tolerances are "big", it will not be an issue but when you are turning small diameters to within "reasonable" tolerances, you need to re-think you order of operations.
There are a couple of ideas, you can turn the large diameter part, and then hold that end in a collet, in the lathe. This will hold your workpiece within greater tolerances (less runout) and then go about turning the smaller, longer diameter. I think you will still need to support the end with a tailstock since it's very small and will otherwise flex. Even so, you will need to take relatively light cuts to avoid this all the same. If the tool post is getting in the way, maybe start with a longer piece of material, turn down to required diameter and to length and then cut to length.
Other option is to do all operations with it in the 3 jaw and without removing it. You will need more material to allow the amount of "stuff" held by the chuck. The other benefits (although minor) to the above ideas are that the workpiece will not be marked with the 3 jaw chuck.
Others here may come up with a better idea, I'm still learning, but these two ideas were the first that came to my head.
Good luck!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
-
24th April 2014, 03:30 PM #7
I would always try to turn something like this between centers. If the tail stock or live center is getting in the way, overhang the tool some more, or grind a hss tool or buy a diamond shape insert tool so you will clear the live center. Or you can make the part 1/2" too long, and when you drill your centers turn the first 1/2" down to a little less that the finished size. That way your center clearance is not a problem. Once all the turning is done you can cut the extra bit off. As long as your centers are clean and have no run out the job should be perfectly concentric.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
24th April 2014, 10:39 PM #8
Thanks all, must have been a bit of flex, cutter is pretty short so couldn't extend it much. You've given me some ideas though about what i can do and appreciate that.
-
25th April 2014, 12:49 AM #9
It just so happens i was faced by this problem this arvo, making a 1/2" tapered mandrel. Drilled and turned the ends down to .480" for .750". Plenty of room for the cutter and the drive dog.
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
Similar Threads
-
What is correct?
By Wombat2 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 3Last Post: 2nd October 2012, 10:54 PM -
What is the correct RPM
By Pappy in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 1Last Post: 4th June 2012, 11:30 PM -
Want to know the Correct Speed
By Fugley in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 10Last Post: 5th August 2008, 10:58 PM -
Want to make some furniture in Mordialloc and make some money.
By Lignum in forum ANNOUNCEMENTSReplies: 8Last Post: 23rd April 2007, 12:04 AM -
The correct chuck?
By Happy Chappy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 9Last Post: 19th December 2005, 12:35 PM