Thread: Current bandsaw recommendations

Hi Mick,
A little slow.
The smaller bandsaws all seem to get a pretty good wrap. Who would know who was selling which one at any one time I dont know. Even the smallest one(around $300) would handle the sizes you mention. If you do much hacksaw work you will be asking yourself "why did I not buy one years ago", as I have said before, best money I've ever spent.(mine is a little bigger but was second hand off ebay)

Stuart

This post is recent.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/best-way-cut-lathe-stock-134745/

These saws have been getting sold for 25 or more years and are the same design so you pretty well cant go wrong.
Gasweld do sell a Taiwanese one with a smaller HP motor, but from reports and looking at them they don't seem to be any better than the Chines one's.

As Stuart said, I don't know how many times I have heard people saying I should have bought one years ago, or how did I ever live without one. They are that good for cutting stock.
I bought mine second hand around 10 or more years ago and it is still going strong and it's one of the Chinese one's.
The blades can be bought from H&F's for a deal of 11 for $110 and will last a long time and even longer if you add coolant.
The only difference in the smaller size ones is the size some have a 150mm x 100mm capacity where others are 150mm x 115mm
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B002
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B009

The only problem they have is the stand, which can be fixed with a piece of angle both sides tying the the 2 legs together.

Dave

Originally Posted by Stustoys

If you do much hacksaw work you will be asking yourself "why did I not buy one years ago", as I have said before, best money I've ever spent

Thanks Stuart - Yeah I saw this comment before. I've got a compound mitre saw (for wood) that I use just about every day and is one of the best things I've ever bought. I've got a feeling a bandsaw will fall into the same category.

Originally Posted by Dave J

This post is recent.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/best-way-cut-lathe-stock-134745/

These saws have been getting sold for 25 or more years and are the same design so you pretty well cant go wrong.
Gasweld do sell a Taiwanese one with a smaller HP motor, but from reports and looking at them they don't seem to be any better than the Chines one's.

As Stuart said, I don't know how many times I have heard people saying I should have bought one years ago, or how did I ever live without one. They are that good for cutting stock.
I bought mine second hand around 10 or more years ago and it is still going strong and it's one of the Chinese one's.
The blades can be bought from H&F's for a deal of 11 for $110 and will last a long time and even longer if you add coolant.
The only difference in the smaller size ones is the size some have a 150mm x 100mm capacity where others are 150mm x 100mm
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B002
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=B009

The only problem they have is the stand, which can be fixed with a piece of angle both sides tying the the 2 legs together.

Dave

Great, thanks Dave, I had seen that thread you linked, although I have to admit I didn't recognise it was so recent. Thanks for searchng for me

The BS-4A model you linked is one I'm seriously considering. Small but the price is right.

I've also been looking at the swivel arm versions (e.g. https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=B003#), as I'm restricted for space in my workshop and thought this might be useful. But on reflection I'm not sure there's much advantage... I'd be interested in comments on this. Unfortunately none of the local shops have any in stock to fiddle around with. Or maybe it would be possible to make up a custom stand with a swivel plate that the whole saw sits on?

Cheers

- Mick

Originally Posted by Dave J

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The only difference in the smaller size ones is the size some have a 150mm x 100mm capacity where others are 150mm x 100mm.
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I think you mean 150 x 100 and 150 x 115?


Well I'm liking mine a lot.

Best thing is it's really quiet.

Next thing is unlike waving an angle grinder with a cut of wheel at a piece of steel it cuts straight and square.

I've reversed the moving wheel and handle positions so I don't have to lift the motor to move it around.

I especially like the way you can stack smaller pieces into bundles and cut multiple pieces with the same pass.

One thing bugs me and that is the blade seems to come of just a bit more easily than it should. Any ideas?

I have no idea how hard to tension the blade - I have though about twanging the balde and using the guitar tuner on my eyephone to give me a systematic measurement of tension.

Anyone have an idea what note I should be looking for?

I also have an old table saw in which I place cut off wheels and while it is a lot queiter than an angle grinder it's not as quite as the bandsaw.
Also using think cut off wheels on the table saw the thin wheels can still wander around and produce crooked cuts.

I think the swivel would be handy if you are thinking of angle cuts. I am planing to convert mine over to something similar to this this one.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...tockCode=B008A
As I find it a pain the do angle cuts with having to set the vice back up again.

I was going to buy one like in the link, but after seeing it in person it is a big saw and more suited to cutting solid, where these smaller suit what I do and are you can get fine of coarse blades cheap ready made from H&F's. That larger saw is $20 a blade and 14 teeth is the finest tooth count supplied from them, where the smaller ones are 18tpi and are ideal for RHS.

Dave

Originally Posted by BobL

I think you mean 150 x 100 and 150 x 115?


Well I'm liking mine a lot.

Best thing is it's really quiet.

Next thing is unlike waving an angle grinder with a cut of wheel at a piece of steel it cuts straight and square.

I've reversed the moving wheel and handle positions so I don't have to lift the motor to move it around.

I especially like the way you can stack smaller pieces into bundles and cut multiple pieces with the same pass.

One thing bugs me and that is the blade seems to come of just a bit more easily than it should. Any ideas?

I have no idea how hard to tension the blade - I have though about twanging the balde and using the guitar tuner on my eyephone to give me a systematic measurement of tension.

Anyone have an idea what note I should be looking for?

I also have an old table saw in which I place cut off wheels and while it is a lot queiter than an angle grinder it's not as quite as the bandsaw.
Also using think cut off wheels on the table saw the thin wheels can still wander around and produce crooked cuts.

I fixed the size up Bob, thanks for picking that out.
The blade should be really tight, they say as tight as you can get the adjustment knob by hand. Having the looser like you have found will make the blade jump off and also end up breaking.

Dave

I will agree that as tight as you can get it is the way to go but only because I read this a couple of days ago on web. I tightened mine up (second Hand, no manual) last weekend and broke one of the guide bearings soon after.

I have a plan to fit a new and much stronger base to the saw and it includes a drip tray so coolant can be used and collected below. I was testing my temp coolant setup which consists of a plastic bottle inverted and suspended above, a 3mm drip watering valve for adjustment and 3mm poly pipe sloted to fit over blade. I do not know why the bearing broke. Maybe something to do with the coolant carrying chips.

I had researched the net because I was having problems with the blade coming off after I started trying coolant. There are a lot of mods available on net for these saws. I was very surprised at the versatilty that can be added with improved clamping methods etc. Just google it.

Also just ordered a set ot 10 replacement guide bearings from USA for about $A15.50 including postage on EBay. They are for a "gas scooter", whatever that is. Will see if they are any good as the bearing that SWMBO picked up today was $5.80 locally.

Any info such as addresses that are required let me know I will look them up.

Dean

Originally Posted by Dave J

I think the swivel would be handy if you are thinking of angle cuts.

So how much of a pain is it to reset the mitre vice on these things? Is it worth $200+ extra to get into this league? I suppose maybe 10% of my cuts would be mitres.

Originally Posted by Dave J

I am planing to convert mine over to something similar to this this one.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...tockCode=B008A

Nice looking machine that... I notice it has a "double mitre swivel head" which sounds mighty impressive. Does that mean it does compound mitres (i.e. in 2 axes) or just that it does from +45 to -45 degrees in one (horizontal) axis?

Originally Posted by Dave J

where the smaller ones are 18tpi and are ideal for RHS

I hadn't thought of this aspect - I'd assumed bigger was better - this is good info, since the majority of my stuff is thin walled section.

I just came across your thread for bandsaw coolant too which is interesting.

Cheers

- Mick

I have broken a couple of bearings on mine over the years and I think it is old age and being Chinese bearings to start with.
Did you order your bearings through VXB bearings?
Ceramic,Miniature Ball Bearings

I ran my saw for probably 6-7 years without coolant and after adding it I found the blades lasted longer, but it cut a little slower for some reason, which I have heard from others as well after switching to coolant.

I run my coolant nozzle on the blade after the cut to wash away the chips and find the coolant gets carried around the blade, as it runs down the face of the job on the infeed side.
I just used a piece of down pipe with one side cut out and it needed a small gutter on the end to catch the drips coming off the blade as it goes around the wheel. I also put a piece of sheet metal under the vice slot to catch any drips.
For the stand I used 2 pieces of angle and they hold the coolant tank as well. The original shelf is now used as a coolant catch tray which just clips on and is held by a piece of wire off the length stop. Other than the angle I didn't need to drill any holes and the gutter is held on by the stand bolts.
I mounted a switch in the motor switch cover so I can either have coolant on when the saw is running or coolant off.
To catch the swarf I mounted a round magnet near the hole in the tray and fly wire as well as another round magnet in the funnel. I also put one in the tank but find nothing seems to get down that far. The fly wire is mainly to catch aluminium and plastic shavings.
These pictures where just on my computer and it was filthy dirty at the time.

Dave

Originally Posted by Oldneweng

There are a lot of mods available on net for these saws. I was very surprised at the versatilty that can be added with improved clamping methods etc. Just google it.

Thanks Dean, I'll do that... I guess I wan't to make sure I don't buy a saw that has got some fundamental deficiency that can't be modified/retrofitted later. I just don't know enough about them to know what is the best base model.

Cheers

- Mick

Originally Posted by WelderMick

So how much of a pain is it to reset the mitre vice on these things? Is it worth $200+ extra to get into this league? I suppose maybe 10% of my cuts would be mitres.


Nice looking machine that... I notice it has a "double mitre swivel head" which sounds mighty impressive. Does that mean it does compound mitres (i.e. in 2 axes) or just that it does from +45 to -45 degrees in one (horizontal) axis?



I hadn't thought of this aspect - I'd assumed bigger was better - this is good info, since the majority of my stuff is thin walled section.

I just came across your thread for bandsaw coolant too which is interesting.

Cheers

- Mick

I was typing while you where posting.
It's not that hard to reset the vice jaw I just use a square resting on the jaw and eye up the blade and it's set.

I think that maybe a miss print about double mitre as I am sure it's single. This one is double mitre but is only in one axis, so it doesn't do compound cuts.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=B063

I cart my saw outside to cut 6-8mtr lengths up as I don't have the room in my 7 x 7mtr shed. For smaller stuff for the lathe it's fine inside. Just the other week I cut 150mm round and it took around 50 minutes for each cut. I don't usually time it, but after questions on different forums about how good they are I decided to.
With the 5S saw it would be good along a wall as the saw swivels not the work. It just depends on your situation, if you don't mind angling the work into the saw or angling the saw to suit the work on angle cuts, the 4A will be fine and you could get a mixture of 20 blades for the $200 extra which should do you for several years.
Also they do sell a wood work blade for these saws as well and you can pick any of the blades in the buy 10 get one free for $110 from H&F's.

Dave

Originally Posted by WelderMick

Thanks Dean, I'll do that... I guess I wan't to make sure I don't buy a saw that has got some fundamental deficiency that can't be modified/retrofitted later. I just don't know enough about them to know what is the best base model.

Cheers

- Mick

The most common is the BS4A and the BS5. I have seen a few people around with the BS5S but not many. You will also notice the BS5 is only 1/3hp where the BS4 is a 1/2hp, the same as the 5S.
I would just look around for a good deal off someone and go with that, as almost everything is adjustable.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

The most common is the BS4A and the BS5. I have seen a few people around with the BS5S but not many. You will also notice the BS5 is only 1/3hp where the BS4 is a 1/2hp, the same as the 5S.
I would just look around for a good deal off someone and go with that, as almost everything is adjustable.

Dave

I was starting to come to the same conclusion - just gotta get one and see for myself. For $300 it seems it would be hard to regret the decision for the BS-4A. Undoubtedly I'll be back asking questions once I've got the thing in my garage. Cheers - Mick

Originally Posted by WelderMick

So how much of a pain is it to reset the mitre vice on these things? Is it worth $200+ extra to get into this league? I suppose maybe 10% of my cuts would be mitres.

Mick,
I think its mostly about how and were you plan to set your bandsaw up. If you want to back it up to a wall and have some sort of infeed table/rolls/rack along the wall, to cut mitres you have to move the whole saw to the angle you want. That would get painful. If the saw is out in the open and you can move the stock around to the angle its not so bad. $200 would almost buy you another saw, one for mitres one for square.

Stuart