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Thread: Cutting 220 chamfers
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17th May 2013, 03:02 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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19th May 2013, 09:12 AM #17Senior Member
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Hi Aaron, That cutter would be ideal while easy enough to make the grinding would be beyond my skill level and equipment. Having a beer last night i had this brainwave that i should buy a 40mm twist drill, grind it to 55deg. to cut a chamfer/countersink the correct depth, then make a brazed cutter to fit my adjustable boring head, grind this cutter to suit the concave/convex of the spring washer.
The adjustment on the b/h would allow me to creep up with the cuts which would suit a metalwork dummy like me, a rotating jig sounds a good idea with the amount wheels i will end up doing.
Included a photo of my drill press.
Thanks 003.jpg
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21st May 2013, 10:21 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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nice
that drill press is great running on a vfd something ive been meaning to do.
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23rd May 2013, 10:22 PM #19Member
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Wet blanket?
G'day all, without wanting to be a wet blanket over Whitey's dilemma, I have a feeling that alloy rims do not have countersunk holes because of the risk of fatigue cracking (stress cracking of the rim, radiating from the nuts). It may be worth checking the Aust Std for alloy wheels before launching into something quite difficult.
Now that we can see the problem (thanks for the pics Whitey), why not chuck the split cone washer for a stepped spacer? This would not involve any machining of the wheels at all - just the mfr of 220 spacers.
Regards, Daryl
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24th May 2013, 08:12 PM #20Senior Member
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Hi Daryl,
The new rim is steel not alloy, it's brand new so that's a easy mistake, I want to stay with the cone washers to avoid complications at machinery inspections, you know the old story "but sir that's what they came out with".
Thanks
Whitey
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25th May 2013, 11:40 PM #21Member
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Daryl's Mistake
Ah ... sorry Whitey for tearing off at a tangent like that. Now that I know the rimes are steel, then the cutting arbor / boring bar (well over 25 YO) I have is still available. When I bought mine, the fellow was making them at Sunnybank. I see he has now moved to Oakey.
PracTool | Super Drill
The cutters are just 1/4" and 5/16" SQ lathe tool steel - cheap enough anywhere. I see the kit now includes some spacers etc - mine is bare bones, but it works very well. I'm sure that with a tailor made spacer to suit the wheel holes, it should be able to do the job with ease.
Regards, Daryl
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27th May 2013, 06:04 PM #22Senior Member
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I think I will ask Santa for one of those cutters.
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27th May 2013, 11:47 PM #23Member
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Daryl = Santa
... but I have a cutter for you - I have two of them!
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2nd June 2013, 09:19 AM #24Senior Member
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Daryl, PM sent , well I hope it is sent could be in never/never land.
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2nd June 2013, 10:14 AM #25Member
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My Pleasure
Msg rec'd Whitey - all good. Over-n-out.
Good luck with the 40mm drill bit.
Daryl
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3rd June 2013, 02:06 PM #26New Member
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Have you tried Mullins Wheels to see if they can supply the wheel you need? They can be expensive for custom made wheels, but a mod. to a stock wheel may work out inexpensive.
Go straight to Mullin's in Adelade, they're very helpfull on odd ball rim's.
Hope this help's,
Russell
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3rd June 2013, 05:19 PM #27Senior Member
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Hi Russ.
Thanks for the info on Mullins, that new rim in my earlier post is $80 and that is the reason [price] that i'm fiddling around with it, if i had to pay $300+ for a rim it's not worthwhile and i might as well pay the $150 extra for a tube type tyre over the tubeless.
I only have 3 and a bit years before i retire which is 4 sets of tyres in that time on the old girl, i will recoop the $80 per rim with just one set of tubeless tyres as i have all the gear now except for a jig and a bit of shed time.
Thanks
Whitey
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3rd June 2013, 07:33 PM #28New Member
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Hi Whitey,
I just bought a set for a Hino, first set of tyres near payed for the rims so I know where your comming from,just an idea,
Russell
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