Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 25 of 25
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    texas, queensland
    Posts
    1,239

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    What brain dead idiot idea that is, a SAFETY disaster waiting to happen.

    ANYONE who jerry rigs any tool to do something that its not supposed to do is a statistic waiting to happen.
    you could be right on the brain dead thing , it was a builder that told me thats the way he did it , and a lot ( i am told ) did it that way in the 70s.
    'If the enemy is in range, so are you.'

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    2

    Default

    For $69 I was tempted to get the Ozito twin cutter to see how well it worked but I read that the depth of cut was only 28mm which wouldn't be deep enough for the fence profile. You can get 185mm twin cutters but they seem to be a lot more expensive and not as easily available.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,340

    Default

    The steel cutting blades have been reasonably commonly available for the past 5 years or so, and I think trying to run a conventional blade backwards is just asking for trouble in my opinion. As I mentioned, the main thing you'll notice when looking at the metal cutting blades is the massive chip limiters, of lesser note is the lack of hook on the teeth.

    Be prepared for a bit of a sticker shock when you look at the metal cutting blades, they will probably cost around the same as the twin cutter. However from what I've seen, all carbide is not the same, and I'd expect a quality saw blade to far outlast the twin cutter's blades. The latter of which provides no great advantage I can see over a regular saw for this purpose. If you do buy a saw blade just be careful of any plastic guards as the chips they throw are quite hot. Not red hot or anything, but will burn skin on contact. Also be careful of using them on anything like welds (for another job), as the localised hardening on the weld tends to blunt the blade very quickly. On regular metals however they seem to last quite well.

    Thanks for the heads-up on the up profile of material Bob, I've only ever used my nibbler on flat stock and didn't know about that. I was very surprised at how fast they cut however, far faster than I imagined.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    What brain dead idiot idea that is, a SAFETY disaster waiting to happen.

    ANYONE who jerry rigs any tool to do something that its not supposed to do is a statistic waiting to happen.
    I am not commenting on this use of a tool in any way, but if you read your post it looks kinda funny. First you very strongly abuse the idea of using a tool for unintended purposes, then your signature line says "The person who never made a mistake never made anything". A bit contradictory from my position.

    Dean

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,381

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I am not commenting on this use of a tool in any way, but if you read your post it looks kinda funny. First you very strongly abuse the idea of using a tool for unintended purposes, then your signature line says "The person who never made a mistake never made anything". A bit contradictory from my position.

    Dean
    Not really, think about it, a mistake is unintentional, to deliberately set out to do something wrong is not a mistake, it is intentional
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Far West Wimmera
    Age
    63
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    Not really, think about it, a mistake is unintentional, to deliberately set out to do something wrong is not a mistake, it is intentional
    That is one point of view. Nobody ever designed something new without using different methods either.

    ANYONE who jerry rigs any tool to do something that its not supposed to do is a statistic waiting to happen.
    Thats a bit harsh. I guess it depends on your definition of "supposed to do". I call it thinking outside the square.

    Dean

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Country West Oz
    Age
    77
    Posts
    201

    Default

    I have used a nibbler, good on flat sheet but difficult on corrugated.
    One of those sheet metal blades that fit a circular saw, had it for about 30 years, works well but doesn't give as clean a cut as I would like and also makes a huge amount of noise.
    A twin blade cutter, this thing is by far and away the best for cutting corrugated sheet, it is quick, light to handle, no kickback and mine at least has no trouble with depth of cut for trimdeck.
    Regards
    Bradford

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    920

    Default

    I lay roof sheeting on the grass lawn for cutting.
    More stable than off the ground, small risk of harm to lawn and blade, a bit quieter.

    A 1mm metal cutting blade in a 125mm angle grinder is my current tool of choice. In theory the heat generated damages the protective coating, but the thin blade doesn't seem to cause any discolouring, if that's any indication. Filing the burrs off is a good idea, as it discourages rusting too.

    Jordan

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    696

    Default

    If 'n yer want my advice, go hire the tool ya want given from all the advice above.
    If'n ya don't want my advice, just crack open ya 8th stubbie and think about what you wanna do, then say I'll do it 'morra


  11. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    That is one point of view. Nobody ever designed something new without using different methods either.



    Thats a bit harsh. I guess it depends on your definition of "supposed to do". I call it thinking outside the square.

    Dean
    Yeah... it's what we do, and this forum has many posts regarding re-purposing machine parts to perform a different task
    As for using the blade in the saw backwards, I have seen that done in the past and it works, in a rough manner, but I would use the blade that I mentioned earlier as cutting colorbond is exactly what it is designed to do and they work extremely well

    shed

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Cutting Colourbond Sheet.
    By STAR in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 11th August 2008, 03:50 PM
  2. Accurate cutting of panels
    By Eightball in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 15th August 2007, 07:15 PM
  3. Cutting Large Panels on the Table Saw
    By Knurl in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 25th May 2007, 09:48 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •