Thread: Cutting RHS lengthwise

How long was the wood packer? it shouldn't be necessary to use timber for the full 6" length of the RHS to prevent the blade from falling through once the initial cut of the top surface was completed, less than an inch at one end would be ample.

Originally Posted by Gavin Newman

How long was the wood packer? it shouldn't be necessary to use timber for the full 6" length of the RHS to prevent the blade from falling through once the initial cut of the top surface was completed, less than an inch at one end would be ample.

yeah it was full length !
It was the first time I had done this and didn't know how much would be needed - next time I will know.

OK - I'll get back into the corner and my usually mumbling.

Originally Posted by BobL

Greetings all,

I needed to make some "U shaped pieces" that were 75 mm wide, 100 mm tall and 125 mm deep (6 mm thick).
To do this I cut 125mm long pieces from some 125 x 75 RHS and then cut them lengthwise as shown using my trusty little horizontal bandsaw.

So that I could leave it cutting unattended, to stop the blade just falling through the gap in the middle I packed the gap with a piece of wood.
What surprised me was how long it too cut through the wood, and the resulting fine soggy wet sawdust clogged the filter on my coolant return line so that the coolant/lube came close to overflowing the return tank (a length of household guttering).

I'm just wondering what else can be use in this situation.
I could have stood the block up onto its narrow end but then my saw wouldn't have done it in one pass and I would have had to flip it over.
Thanks

Hi Bob,
I would have thought it could be set up so that the 100mm was vertical, and cut through both sides at once, a block inside the RHS would help with support.
Regards
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Hi Bob,
I would have thought it could be set up so that the 100mm was vertical, and cut through both sides at once, a block inside the RHS would help with support.
Regards
Kryn

Yeah that would work. This is why I like these forums.

I don't even need a block - I already have a spreader already built into the t vice.

Originally Posted by BobL

Yeah that would work. This is why I like these forums.

I don't even need a block - I already have a spreader already built into the t vice.

Bob, when I was referring to the block, it was meant that the block be inside the RHS, as per one of your first pics. That will stop the RHS vibrating and jamming the blade DAMHIKT. Regarding your spreader, I would put it on a slightly longer plate, not the jaw, as a stronger grip will be achieved, particularly if cutting round bar or pipe.
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Bob, when I was referring to the block, it was meant that the block be inside the RHS, as per one of your first pics. That will stop the RHS vibrating and jamming the blade DAMHIKT.

OK - I understand - thanks

Regarding your spreader, I would put it on a slightly longer plate, not the jaw, as a stronger grip will be achieved, particularly if cutting round bar or pipe. Kryn

I thought that might be the case but after 2 years of use including a lot of round bar up to 75 mm I have not found it to be a problem.

Fair enough, just a comment, going by what I've read.
Kryn