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Thread: Deckel FP2LB

  1. #181
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    Josh,
    If the NPT thread is a problem i have some spare BSP ones from the kit. There is lots of Loc-line stuff on ebay, shipping seems a bit much on one item but if they combine it could work out pretty well. I find its handy to have a range of nozzles for different work. For slab milling i use a t and 2 wide flat nozzles, for small endmills a little 1/8 nozzle is great, and then there is everything in between. I just change as i need to.

    Ew
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  3. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian View Post
    Weather has been horrible for paint,
    Been pretty nice up here.... Nights get a bit chilly down to 12C or so.... Days nice at 26C... Heavy dews in the morning but they dry up to great painting weather.... My single pack paint has been drying very well... he he he....

    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  4. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Been pretty nice up here.... Nights get a bit chilly down to 12C or so.... Days nice at 26C... Heavy dews in the morning but they dry up to great painting weather.... My single pack paint has been drying very well... he he he....


    Good to hear but it is a nice enough here this afternoon to put a coat on, well maybe

  5. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian View Post
    Good to hear but it is a nice enough here this afternoon to put a coat on, well maybe
    Did no one ever tell you Josh, your supposed to put a coat on when it gets cold......
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  6. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Did no one ever tell you Josh, your supposed to put a coat on when it gets cold......


    Turns out I did put a coat on as soon as it started getting colder, I left it a little late in the day, and as the light was failing I got a few runs, if the runs sand out ok then that will be the last coat of epoxy. then it is onto some polyurethane.

    Some notes on my experience with the Dulux GPE epoxy paint. The A part paint is super super thick, about the consistency of peanut butter. It needs to be thinned considerably for spraying or brushing and covers extremely well, I have put three coats on the three panels ~6sqm and only used about 1/4 of the can. The quickturn hardener cures it to sandable in about 24 hours with my temperatures ranging from 2C to 15C.

    When spraying, more attention needs to be given to edges, but overall it is pretty forgiving stuff, it did not build as well as I would have expected, leaving small divots in the small casting defects, but experimenting on the last coat yesterday these can be corrected if noticed with a heavier coat and a little more thinner. Sags and runs have a tendency to level due to the high surface tension of the paint.

    Finish off the gun is a nice semi gloss, nice enough to be a top coat.

    Sanding is difficult and will quickly wear out WD if it is left too long before sanding.

    -Josh

  7. #186
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    Beryl bloke was asking about the main drive shaft, so here are some picture, it also may interest others.



    DSCN3314.jpgDSCN3321.jpgDSCN3320.jpgDSCN3319.jpgDSCN3318.jpgDSCN3313.jpgDSCN3317.jpgDSCN3316.jpgDSCN3315.jpgDSCN3322.jpg

    Josh

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    Though I would try some easy to remove paint on one of the handles before I got to carried away with the scheme. Opinions?
    DSCN3324.jpg

    Ignore my crappy masking

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    Looks smick to me.

    Michael

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    Default Looks good

    Quote Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian View Post
    Though I would try some easy to remove paint on one of the handles before I got to carried away with the scheme. Opinions?
    DSCN3324.jpg

    Ignore my crappy masking
    Looks like a good choice.

    Cheers

    The Beryl Bloke

  11. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brobdingnagian View Post
    Beryl bloke was asking about the main drive shaft, so here are some picture, it also may interest others.



    DSCN3314.jpgDSCN3321.jpgDSCN3320.jpgDSCN3319.jpgDSCN3318.jpgDSCN3313.jpgDSCN3317.jpgDSCN3316.jpgDSCN3315.jpgDSCN3322.jpg

    Josh
    They are beautifully made, I can't help but admire the care and workmanship that goes into these machines.A proudly Teutonic specimen. J

  12. #191
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    I was in the process of pulling down the Siemens motor for the Deckel for a re-lube, clean and paint and one side of the rear bearing cap was cracked off, after a little cleaning the opposite side was also cracked but has not given way just yet. not my damage...

    1. Any Idea on cause?

    2. What are the groves on the inside for? is there meant to be a seal there?

    DSCN3327.jpg

    DSCN3330.jpg

    -Josh

  13. #192
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    1. Looks like the bolts have been torqued up too much and the flange is not supported underneath. Should there be a gasket there or rubber pad? Was it CI? Might be better as MS.
    2. I'd vote for seals

    Michael

  14. #193
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    I would think the grooves may be supposed to be full of grease, to catch any incoming objects...

    I have seen them a few times on older electric motors.. Excess grease squeezes out there maybe?
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

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    As this is the rear bearing cap is there any chance of impact from the front of the shaft causing this?

    What is the condition of the shaft where the grooves are?

    Dean
    Last edited by Oldneweng; 17th August 2013 at 07:22 PM. Reason: Added stuff

  16. #195
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    Hi Josh,
    the grooves may have been for felts.

    Phil

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