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Thread: Deckel FP2LB
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6th August 2013, 08:44 AM #121Senior Member
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Deckel did spec a 10 wt oil for some of their spindles - and never bothered to update the literature. An equivalent to velocite 6 in an old standard was tellus 10, which may have morphed into Morlina...a call to the tech line might provide confirmation?
Greg Q possibly has some (a lot!) of that excess to requirements nearby, from a past discussion on here, still have 20l of the stuff here too.
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6th August 2013 08:44 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th August 2013, 10:04 AM #122
Deckel only used oil on their plain bearing spindles which changed in 1952. Your vertical spindle should have needle roller bearings which would take Klubėr Isoflex NBU15 grease. I have some that I can spare. Phil F also stocks it. It sells for silly money...around $1/ gram
And yes, I do have enough Morlina 10 weight oil to float a boat. It is free this month with every FP1 purchase, even the plastic model FP1.
GQIt's all part of the service here at The House of Pain
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6th August 2013, 12:28 PM #123SENIOR MEMBER
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I have 3 manuals for the FP2LB and only one of them give the specific weights for all the lubricants, I'll put up an image of the charts, as its always nice to have an pre ISO equivalent chart. and yes it calls out for the awesomeness das ist Klubėr Isoflex, ohhh jaa.
-Josh
Edit added chart:
DSCN3288.jpg
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6th August 2013, 01:36 PM #124SENIOR MEMBER
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Picked up the side panels for the column from the sandblaster this morning at $60 to get the lot done its a finish that's hard to beat. The castings looks great, only one small inclusion that I can see.
DSCN3286.jpg
Paint tuned up today as well.
Only problem is that they gave us the wrong primer, It should have been the zinc phosphate stuff, no matter they said they would swap it over for us.
DSCN3289[1].jpg
Now I just need to setup a small spray booth, and pick up a better respirator and spray suit then I can start shooting some epoxy.
-Josh
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6th August 2013, 04:30 PM #125SENIOR MEMBER
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Nice finish - that's why I have a sand blaster. $60 for that lot is a good price too. I wouldn't have done it for you for $60, I hate sand blasting even in a booth with dust extraction etc. You would have had to spend a couple hours mowing the grass instead as I hate doing that even more.....
PDW
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6th August 2013, 09:54 PM #126SENIOR MEMBER
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Bob,
2000 rpm, I did a little extra reading, I'm pretty sure now that the 10cSt oil is for the high speed fine boring head.
Greg,
We already have some Klubėr (left over from the T&C grinder rebuild).
I might hold off on the getting any spindle lube for the time being and wait till I pull apart the spindles and check what it is actually running. ie not make a $120 guess.
-Josh
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7th August 2013, 08:30 PM #127SENIOR MEMBER
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Knocked over one of those little piece of the puzzle today, the coolant pump. Its just a small gear pump and just needed to be pulled down and the swarf and rust pulled out, a re-grease, a little lapping a coat of paint and some new bolts. Pictured here ready to go back on a plumbed in if I can find the hose from the tank.
DSCN3300.jpg
It might also need a new seal, but I won't know for sure until I can run it up to speed with a closed discharge.
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7th August 2013, 08:40 PM #128
Hi Josh,
How long are you letting the paint dry before you re-assemble? I find i need a good week, even with the parts near the fire or in the sun, before the paint is hard enough to not damage it, even with a 2 pac. Love the colour.....have the feeling i've seen it before.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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7th August 2013, 09:16 PM #129SENIOR MEMBER
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Ewan,
We have a little drying oven for small parts and circuit boards. This is not the epoxy paint but some quick dry RAL6011 car touch up paint that Ray got to do the Meca RT. But to answer the question with the oven about 1 hour and another hour to cool and fully harden. the weather has been to horrible to consider painting with the epoxy.
With the epoxy the literature says full cure after 7 days (as long as the temp is above 5C).
-Josh
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9th August 2013, 04:18 PM #130SENIOR MEMBER
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The zinc epoxy turned up late yesterday, so with the sun shining we were keen to get a coat on.
DSCN3301.jpg
The spray booth/drying box is an old pump test tank tipped on to its side. I have a tarp so that I can seal the opening after spraying and get the temperature up to about 20C to hasten the curing. Once the parts were dry enough to handle I brought them inside the workshop so that they did not have to suffer the overnight cold and dew.
DSCN3302.jpg
I will leave them a couple of days before a light sand, and then a run over them with some light polyester filler to smooth them out. The next coat is the other non zinc epoxy and will add some colour.
I have also ordered up some replacement push buttons for start/stop as the exiting ones are on their last legs. I went for some sealed illuminated flush stainless steel ones.
75 (1).jpg
I have done away with the existing electrical enclosure and re-run all the wiring as that was on its last legs as well as I found a nice little hide away inside the column's casting that is a nice size for a small VFD (thinking Danfoss FC51), a circuit breaker and enough room for a half a dozen 2pole relays, and a cooling fan.
-Josh
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9th August 2013, 06:59 PM #131SENIOR MEMBER
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Push Buttons:
DSCN3304.jpgDSCN3306.jpg
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9th August 2013, 08:19 PM #132Pink 10EE owner
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9th August 2013, 08:25 PM #1331915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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9th August 2013, 09:17 PM #134SENIOR MEMBER
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10th August 2013, 12:09 AM #135Senior Member
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Josh,just a query where did you obtain the s/s switches.Got a sick ELU saw here with same type of switches Unobtainium from OEM, but that depicted switch looks like could be a goer. Cheers John. and a mighty fine effort you are doing with the mill. Only 1 problem is its latitude positition is 60 miles north of Newstead.
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