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Thread: The Deckel has landed
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11th August 2013, 09:10 PM #1
The Deckel has landed
Greetings,
The Deckel has finally arrived, The photos below show it sitting on the shed floor waiting for attention.
mill 003.jpg
In front of the machine is the lifting bar I had the vendor fabricate for me. Bolted to the table top is other part of the rigging gear for the lifting. Two solid steel bars to help hold the slings apart when lifting. They also acted as tie down points during transport.
mill 001.jpg
This is the universal swivelling and angling table, the table extension for the fixed table is below it. I have the angle head sitting on the top of the table. The rolling stand is probably a Deckel supplied item.
Plenty of small issues to fix. Below you can see where part of the rear cover has been cut away to allow better access for changing belts, etc. A valuable modification I would recommend to all Deckel owners The removed leg had only one allen screw holding it to the chasis. Bet that didn't rattle in use, much.
I pulled the fan cover off the back of the motor and discovered there were only three blades left on the fan
mill 004.jpg
Some bits and pieces came with it, here is some of them sitting on my granite surface plate. Ok so it's a kitchen bench offcut. There are two gib looking things I have not identified yet, a 1" horizontal arbor that I'm happy to have as I have some cutters for that, a grease gun, an unknown handle, a bodged up drawbar spanner that has been welded to a "Dowidat" spanner.
mill 009.jpg
These four unknown items??? the two smaller ones at the back are split tapered sleeves, from what I have no idea. The larger two????
mill 010.jpg
I have a couple more photos that I need to take so I can get help with identifying the items.
I have spent part of the weekend slowly cleaning it and getting familiar with the controls. I need to stop that and get on with finishing the shed.
So.... If I paint it bright yellow and black with Carbon Fibre accents, will it go faster????
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke
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11th August 2013 09:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th August 2013, 10:00 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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I bet you are a happy camper, now get a roof on!
That rear panel supports the weight of the side panel by a piano hinge, both aluminium, the panel that has all the controls is cast iron. So with a missing leg it would make the whole thing a little more sloppy .. I admit the belts are a real pain to get to but come on, seriously!....... heathens .
-Josh
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22nd August 2013, 04:34 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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22nd August 2013, 05:01 PM #4
That handle looks like the one that goes on the one-shot oiler... The two long blocks look like the ones that go along underneath the head,
They **might** have been removed to fit the Y axis DRO, but I'm not sure about that... have a look where the Y axis DRO scale goes and see if that's where it's from.
Regards
Ray
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22nd August 2013, 06:17 PM #5Product designer retired
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- Heidelberg, Victoria
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Nice acquisition
Hey Brob.............
Please show us some snaps of your new shed, ......type of construction, size of slab, material costs etc.
I ask as I'm badly in need of a shed and don't like the crappy part prefabed ones that are on the market.
Ken
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22nd August 2013, 08:05 PM #6
Brain drain
Hi Stuart,
Please excuse the brain fart, it's actually wired up 415V star. I have looked at it a dozen times. I do know the difference, believe it or not! Conversion to run from a 230 volt three phase VFD arrangement should take all of 5 minutes. However, given the array of other issues I have discovered with the machine, that 5 minutes is quite a ways off!
The Beryl Bloke
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22nd August 2013, 08:23 PM #7
Ah ha
Hi Ray,
Thanks for the info. My oiler looks entirely different to whats on the drawings and seems to operate differently from the way the manual suggests as well, so it could be left over from the conversion from the original.
I have removed the DRO along with the "Y" and "Z" axis scales as there will be some serious machining to be done of the column and the DRO and associated wiring just make life more difficult at this stage. I'll move the head out on the "Y" axis and see if they fit under the head. They don't seem to fit where the "Y" axis scales were. They do have a dovetail shape about them and there aren't many other dovetails on the machine.
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke.
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22nd August 2013, 09:23 PM #8
Aussie attitude beats German engineering
mill 022.jpg
Above is what happens when poor attitudes meets excellent engineering.
The above part sits on the main drive shaft with the chain running down to the feeds gearbox, behind it sits the pulleys for drive from the motor and in front of it sits a bearing embedded in the back of the column casting. The top surface in the photo is what sits against the bearing. You can see the layout more clearly on some of the recent photos Josh has posted.
Notice the very nice curve on the face. Very pretty. Expensively pretty in fact. However, that face sits against the inner race of a bearing that supports the rear of the main drive shaft going into the gear box. Inner bearing races are flat on the ends as a general rule. So this sleeve should have a nice square shoulder on it. I contacted Josh who confirmed that their machine has a nice square shoulder. Both the sleeve and the bearing inner race should turn together with no movement between them. The sleeve can only develop this nice expensive curve from wearing against the bearing inner race. A spinning shaft and a stationary inner bear race are not a good combination as it implies the bearing has seized. This combination will end in tears. Either shaft wears in the inner race or the outer bearing race will turn in the column casting. If you are really lucky you get both!
Preliminary investigations show about 5mm of end play and about .5mm of axial play. If I turn the shaft by hand, sometimes the inner bearing will turn and sometimes not. Guess I got really lucky! Not.
Not sure what has caused the failure, although lack of proper maintenance comes to mind. A bit of good old aussie "she'll be right" attitude perhaps??
Now I'm no expert on machinery (I might be when I finish fixing the Deckel, at this rate), I didn't check it out before I bought it and even if I had, I doubt I would have picked this up. The machine was disconnected from power and the belts would have been taking up play in the shaft.
Moving forward, this means I'll be taking the column off the bed and stripping out the gearbox to allow machining of the bearing bore. Thus the DRO is off the machine as a start. I am fortunate in that we used to have two machine shops in the area, one hit a financial rough spot and went under. The other got bigger, built a larger building, bought several CNC machines and now has about 10 employees. The young bloke who owns the shop is happy to have a go at boring out the damaged casting and confident he'll get it right.
The one advantage to such a serious strip down is that it should uncover any other faults in the machine.
It will have to wait a bit as I need to get some more roofing and walls on the shed along with some bench space to carry out the tear down.
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke
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22nd August 2013, 09:42 PM #9
Shed.
Hi Ken,
I am assuming you are referring to me rather than Josh......
I started a thread on my shed a few months ago and it is badly in need of updating... https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/e...c-shed-169981/
I think that link will work???
It's hard to get a good photo of it. The issue is that I can't get far enough away to get the whole thing easily into the shot. One step too far puts you off the edge of the house pad and down the side of the hill.
I elected to not go with the kit shed route. Kit sheds are cheaper and one friend of mine said that allowed him to spend more money on what is inside the shed. It's horses for courses. The other end of the spectrum from a kit shed is tilt up panel or Besser block.
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke
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22nd August 2013, 09:50 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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"I need to stop that and get on with finishing the shed.
So.... If I paint it bright yellow and black with Carbon Fibre accents, will it go faster????
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke" (Quote)
Is that in reference to the shed getting finished How big is the shed, could do with a roof though.
Kryn
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22nd August 2013, 10:21 PM #11
Hi Ken,
Whilst i don't want to hijack Berylblokes thread, One thing i was thinking when i put my shed up was to buy a kit with no walls. Just the frame and roof. Then fill in the walls with either weatherboard or bessa blocks (that was the preferred idea). You can set up a small gantry crane off the block walls, and not effect the shed structure at all. Mezzanine? The same....The kits are crazy cheap compared to buying the raw materials, you may as well make use of the price.
The Deckel looks a bit lonely all on its own there, i do hope you find it some friends! Hope you don't fine any more major problems.
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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22nd August 2013, 11:36 PM #12
Shed size
Hi Kryn,
The shed is roughly 225 square metres of floor, plans are afoot for a mezzanine of 27 square metres and a 10 metre extension on one side to hold all the useful junk. The peak of the roof is about 7 metres high.
Ideally it's a reference to both! I will take 2 weeks off at the start of September to finish the roof and order the wall frames.
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke.
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22nd August 2013, 11:47 PM #13
Friends for the Deckel
Hi Ewan
Ideally a Hardinge TM/UM mill will be arriving soon to keep the Deckel company while the later recuperates from it's previous life!
When I get the walls up I'll be moving the Sherline mill in as well. Plus some Festool stuff.
Perhaps I should obtain a lathe to round things out??? Anyone know where I can get a Monarch 10EE??? Rumour has it there is one just down the road from me!
The other lathe that interests me is the Hardinge HLV-H or TFB-H, neither are readily available in Aus.
If anything turns up in the feeds gearbox or leadscrews then I think CNC will be the go, however I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Cheers
The Beryl Bloke
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23rd August 2013, 09:59 AM #14Pink 10EE owner
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- Aug 2008
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- near Rockhampton
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Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.
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23rd August 2013, 11:38 AM #15
I mentioned lining my shed with particle board in a recent thread. Something to do with water and machines IIRC. Last night I had a shot at painting the first cutout sheet. Had a 10 litre tin of paint got cheap years ago. Wrong colour mix or something. Meant to be greyish according to SWMBO. Imagine my shock when opening the lid and seeing right on top......you guessed it. Red. This paint may be a light red colour. This is not just one machine, but the whole shed. Just waiting to check it dry and in daylight now. I am not sure if I am manly enough to have my entire shed painted in light red.
Dean
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