Thread: Dial vernier calipers ?

Originally Posted by morrisman

Hi

The mitu dial caliper is here , nice bit of kit

Question, the pointer is at 3 o'clock when reading zero. Is that due to wear? And, is there any way of adjusting the pointer to the 12 o'clock position ?

Mike

The rack and pinion are out of whack Mike. Have a look here - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mi...1/#post1311049

I'll take a photo of the copper "wedge" supplied with my gauge when I bought it new in '82.

Bob.

ps. I found the original instructions. The copper is about 0.1mm thick. The end projection is about 0.8mm wide and 2mm long.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

The rack and pinion are out of whack Mike. Have a look here - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mi...1/#post1311049

I'll take a photo of the copper "wedge" supplied with my gauge when I bought it new in '82.

Bob.

Ah ! Good info again Thanks

Hi Bob

This particular model I have is complicated by the mechanical digital readout in front of the dial . The thin strip you pictured will not push pass the gear that rotates the digital mechanism .

Apparently Mitu used a few different methods of calibrating these dials

Mitutoyo 101 adjustment?


In my case, I may have to remove the little bar that sits across the very end and slide ( the 8" end ) the whole 'head' assembly off the rack , then re install the head with the dial lined up correctly

Mike

Thanks for that link Mike.

I did notice the push in pin version in one of my catalogues. I thought yours may have been similar to mine. My favourite 8" dial Mitutoyo didn't bounce off the concrete and now suffers from non repeatability. Pretty terminal for any measuring instrument. If I can work out a way of popping of the crystal, I'll gut the thing in hope of finding the cause of its erraticism. Resurrection may be possible. The Nikon will be at hand.

BT

I have one of the push pin types but thought BT was on the money so didnt mention it.
one thing not mentioned in that thread is there is a screw that needs to be undone(at least on mine). I dont think its the one you can see in the picture its down near the jewel lock screw.

I'll snap a picture when I get out to the shed

Stuart

Stu,

My non bouncing, non digital vernier shares the same basic configuration as Mike's whizzo version. Hence the push in pin type gloss over. I'm keen to see a photo or two of yours.

Mitutoyo was prolific in their design of variations. In their 1978 catalogue they feature the Digit Dial Caliper with a diamond cross sectioned main beam. The outer edges of the beam are vees. This beam section had been available for some time, it is included in my 1968 catalogue. By '86, it was no longer available as a Digit model. The catalogue illustration shows a caliper similar to Mike's.

BT

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Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

My favourite 8" dial Mitutoyo didn't bounce off the concrete and now suffers from non repeatability. Pretty terminal for any measuring instrument.

My "every day" verniers are sometimes dropped, and it never has broken the dial. It doesn't have one!
When I were a young'un, I spent a huge amount on a dial caliper. My heart broke when it did, probably why I rarely use them now. I do have a Mitutoyo dial type, scooped up for peanuts at a garage sale.

Jordan

Hi BT,
Here you go.

My 300mm vernier doesnt have anything in the instructions about adjustment.

Originally Posted by nadroj

My "every day" verniers are sometimes dropped, and it never has broken the dial. It doesn't have one!
When I were a young'un, I spent a huge amount on a dial caliper. My heart broke when it did, probably why I rarely use them now. I do have a Mitutoyo dial type, scooped up for peanuts at a garage sale.

Jordan

I do use my little bi lingual Mitutoyo dial-less vernier too. My favourite is the 300mm Etalon. You blokes would hear me wailing if I dropped that.

My daughter is studying industrial design at RMIT and one of the lecturers recommended that she obtain her own vernier for workshop use. Naturally she leaned on me hoping I'd post over one of mine or buy her something. I thought of a Mitutoyo dial but thought there were too many risks involved. When I was a student at WAIT there was a plastic vernier available for communal use in the 3D Design workshop. It worked well enough and could be bounced off the floor. It was Swiss.

So I bought Beck this. She loves it. I've been tempted to buy one of my own.

BT

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Been reading this thread with interest . Been doing some concreting today , the wheel barrow method - keeps one fit but makes you

Anyway , I am trying to figure out how to remove the little bar across the end of the instrument, so I can slide off the main head . The hold down screws or whatever they are, that secure the bar, are tiny little things , not sure if they are supposed to be undone . Does anyone know ?

Originally Posted by morrisman

Been reading this thread with interest . Been doing some concreting today , the wheel barrow method - keeps one fit but makes you

Anyway , I am trying to figure out how to remove the little bar across the end of the instrument, so I can slide off the main head . The hold down screws or whatever they are, that secure the bar, are tiny little things , not sure if they are supposed to be undone . Does anyone know ?

Careful Mike,

On mine they are plastic plugs, an integral part of the black bar stop. I too thought they were tiny cap screws. With a jeweller's screwdriver you can prise the bar up and off.

Enjoy your barrowing.

BT