Thread: Disecting his Imperial Majesty

Hi Bob,

I'm assuming it blind or it would just make things to easy.
But you could try driving the pins in a little deeper, hopefully if you can a mm or 2 you'd have a drill guide.(even if the ring isnt hardened, which I'm assuming it must be.) Or have you tried that already?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Bob,

I'm assuming it blind or it would just make things to easy.
But you could try driving the pins in a little deeper, hopefully if you can a mm or 2 you'd have a drill guide.(even if the ring isnt hardened, which I'm assuming it must be.) Or have you tried that already?

Stuart

Stu,

I haven't tried anything yet. I'm hoping Michael can drag himself out of the pool long enough to provide an answer.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

When you drilled out your single pin was the pin in a stopped or through hole?

It was a blind hole. I'll head out to the shed in a little while (after tea) and take a picture for you. As Stuart suggested I was able to knock it down a little bit to get a drill guide effect. The pin was only about 10mm deep. One thing that may have helped was that the inside of the cup was filled with Penetrene and so there was a coolant/ lubricant bath available for the drill. If you can make up a small dam it may be worthwhile doing that to prevent overheating of the drill.

Michael

PS - the only pool around here is of sweat.

So Michael,

When it comes to replacing the pin, what will you use?

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

When it comes to replacing the pin, what will you use?

Probably a piece of soft steel/ iron wire. You want something that will drill out easily. All it is doing is preventing the spindle from undoing, so doesn't have to do very heavy duty.

P1020049 (Medium).JPG

This is the underside of the top of the Kaiser. The hole for the pin is visible on the boss around 6 o'clock. The gear underneath is located on the shaft with a keyway and you can see the hole in it. The blind hole in the gear is 2.5mm deep (the gear is 3 thick) and region near the hole through the cone is 9.5mm thick. The plan is a piece of wire 10mm long. then when installed it is nicely recessed.

Michael

I must admit when I first started taking this boring head apart I thought that it was overly complex and fiddly. I still do, but at the same time it is beautifully designed and very well thought out. There is one logical way to put it together and if you don't do it that way it doesn't quite work. To put it together only 2 hex keys are needed and a small (flat) screw driver.
This is the starting point -
The first thing to go in is the driving gear. It consists of a large gear with two smaller gears either side. The small gears drive the rack on the slide, the large gear is the worm gear for the internal worm. The cluster is held in place with two pins, one from each side. These are secured using a hex key with some dog pointed grub screws (hex socket) that locate into a groove on the pin. Having seen how the head works at every opportunity I oiled parts heavily. It moves very smoothly now so I think that is one of the secrets to a working head - frequent oiling.
P1020031 (Medium).JPG P1020032 (Medium).JPG

Next part in place is the vernier scale ring. It is held on with a retaining ring and 3 screws. Does position matter? Yes! On the retaining ring there is a hole for a hex key to do up an inverted SHCS (M4x5.5). So - insert the SHCS (see first picture), position the vernier ring, position the retaining ring and do up the 3 screws that hold it on. The M4 is interesting. The one on mine was hacked around and so I replaced it. M4x6 I though, but no - it would not tighten. It had to be shortened by 0.5mm. Mine also had a slot in it in the non head end - for a screw driver I suppose. I discovered after I'd put a slot in the replacement that if the head is assembled in the right sequence this is unnecessary.

P1020034 (Medium).JPG P1020035 (Medium).JPG

The two photos above are not correct as it is not time to put the slide retainers on - they are there to show the inverted grub screw. The next thing to go on is a thin metal cover. I don't know what it does but it needs to be there. Bob pointed out the other night that if it was fitted the wrong way it would cause things to jam. It does. If you look carefully at the photo below it is of the cover sitting on the slide. The pins on the left are slightly longer than those on the right. Similarly, the relief grooves are deeper on the body for these pins. So, if it goes on back to front, the slide will not assemble properly.
P1020040 (Medium).JPG P1020038 (Medium).JPG

Once the cover is in place, the two slide retainers can go on. The one on the far side is no problem as it is just two SHCS. The one on this side has one SHCS plus the inverted one which can be tightened through the retaining plate. I did wonder at one stage whether I had the slide around the right way but the T slot grooves on the slide and the body are on the same side, and the T slotted retainer is held by the inverted SHCS, so there should be no problem.
P1020039 (Medium).JPG

Next goes on the scale ring. Remember lots of oil everywhere. It should screw onto the worm gear clockwise (RH thread). Turn it around a bit until it feels smooth. The slide should move back and forth easily. It is just over 11 turns for the slide to move from endstop to endstop on this unit.
P1020048 (Medium).JPG

More oil and the first set of balls can be inserted. There are 90 if my counting is correct. They are 2mm diameter like the others so tweezers to get them in. I also used the slightly magnitised tip of a screw driver but I'm wary of doing that as a rule because if the balls pick up the magnetism, they may also attract particles. The other thing to go on is the top gear. It needs to slide over the m27x0.5 thread but has an ID of 27 itself, so some gentle tapping. The keyway locates on a dowel in the spindle shaft. Again, lots of oil.

P1020050 (Medium).JPG

The A/P selector ring is the next thing. I put it to "P" (Plan= facing) and then gently turned it until the gears lined up and let the gear slide through. Once this is on, the next set of balls (54) are put in place (more oil). In the second photo there is a blue texta mark on the spindle to show me where the hole for the pin is when the cone is screwed in place. I put the balls in while standing the head in an ice cream container. A lot less cursing involved.
P1020051 (Medium).JPG P1020053 (Medium).JPG

With the balls in all that remains is to screw the top (in my case a cone) in place and pin it.

P1020055 (Medium).JPG

I discovered that the cone and the hole don't quite line up. Looking at the picture of the gear in my previous post, to the left of the hole is a small circular patch. This might in fact be the hole I need, with the other hole an oil retention hole. Have to think about that. However, at least it is together.
As suggested in the afternoon thread I found that the stop I made up did not fit, so another one of those is required. Bob very kindly sent over an end stop and with a bit of filing to clear a radius that should fit nicely.
I think that a correctly made T nut for the stop I made would just slide under the post on the slide retainer, so no need to remove or partly remove the retainer. Once the rest of the stop is screwed on it will stay there. Of course, if you don't like that idea (because that is probably how the stop on mine went missing) you could make the T nut a little taller and position it on the slide before putting on the retainers (screw the stop on later).

Michael

Michael,

Thank you very much for the exceptionally thorough description of the reassembly process and the accompanying photos. You efforts will certainly make the task ahead of me easier.

Have you been able to ascertain whether the clutch or feed disengagement mechanism works in the manner you previously suggested ?

I will provide you with a measured drawing of the verniered stop tomorrow.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Have you been able to ascertain whether the clutch or feed disengagement mechanism works in the manner you previously suggested ?

Not yet - while I now have a working boring head and it's the only place where I've found a spring loaded element, I haven't got the stops set up yet. The plan at the moment is to try something this weekend.

A sketch would be nice and probably worth posting here for posterity. Now that this one is assembled and working I should be able to check the critical dimensions. As the boring head I have is a very early one and yours appears to be later I wonder if the dimensions are exactly the same. The T slot nut that I made was to the sketch you provided but also needed an extra 0.1mm off here and there to fit.
Looking back through the photos that you sent in hindsight I should have picked the lack of symmetry etc. Still, it was an interesting part to make and I did need to try out the mill on something. As that needs further adjustment I guess I'm going to be trying it out again.

Michael

I have drilled out the pins to a depth of around 10mm, at that depth the bit has encountered hard steel, and with a pair of lock nuts installed on the arbor, tried to unscrew the arbor using an 18" adjustable spanner while holding the head's slide in my 8 inch engineer's vice. All I have achieved is to move my bench across the floor.

I have a two foot shifter but I'm fearful that something might break if I bring that into play.

I am at the point where I think I will abandon my desire to dismantle the head.

A soak in WD40 might loosen up the innards.

BT

I thought the arbor stayed and the ring with the pins* is unscrewed and removed?

*well the pins are no longer there of course

as per this, the big part on the right being the "ring" on yours

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...06-medium-.jpg

Stuart

p.s. Michael, I've been meaning to ask, just what sort of machine is yours meant to fit?

Originally Posted by Stustoys

I thought the arbor stayed and the ring with the pins* is unscrewed and removed?

*well the pins are no longer there of course

as per this, the big part on the right being the "ring" on yours

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...06-medium-.jpg

Stuart

p.s. Michael, I've been meaning to ask, just what sort of machine is yours meant to fit?

Stu,

I've just mutilated a pair of circlip plier tips trying to move the ring. I will contact Kaiser again for some hopeful clarification of this comment - To dismantle the head the 3 pins have to be drilled out (your suggestion was right..), so the “shank part” can be loosen like a screw.

BT

sorry about that. Sure looks like it must be two pieces. Maybe you need to make a special three pin spanner. Though if its broadly the same as Michael's wouldn't that ring also be the bearing preload?

Stuart

Originally Posted by Stustoys

sorry about that. Sure looks like it must be two pieces. Maybe you need to make a special three pin spanner. Though if its broadly the same as Michael's wouldn't that ring also be the bearing preload?

Stuart

I don't know Stu. I'm becoming despondent about this whole Kaiser thing.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I'm becoming despondent about this whole Kaiser thing.

(I added the end bit but it probably sums up your feelings on the matter)
It did take quite a bit of effort to shift mine too Bob. Then one day after the n^th attempt, it just came. If you want to send it over (you can even have this one as hostage if you like) I'll see what I can do. There were techniques used that should not be repeated in public but at one stage I was moving a 100kg bench solely using the torque from the wrench I was using.

Michael