Thread: Disecting his Imperial Majesty

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Err... Well done!

Michael

lol, The first picture had me wondering for a second.

Now to get it clean and back together.

How do you go picking up small bearings with tweezers? Not a huge issue I guess but I bought a couple of these things the other day.......... some sort of bone removing tool I believe lol. They would hold bearings well but might be a little on the large side for getting into tiny places.

Stuart

I just knew you wouldn't be beaten Bob.
Outstanding.

Phil

Congratulations Bob!
Glad you got there. How much force did it take in the end? And did you drill the holes bigger (part-way)?
Now I'm looking forward to the blog on making spindle adapters for MT3 and Cat30....


PS: thank you for the phone call today and the offer of the Waldown table. As I said - if someone travels between Perth and Melbourne one day, I do really appreciate the offer! In the meantime, my repair is now almost complete and will do for now.

As a matter of interest Bob, were your holes 1mm or 1.5mm? You mentioned 1mm at one stage but that sounded too fine to me (even for the Swiss).

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

As a matter of interest Bob, were your holes 1mm or 1.5mm? You mentioned 1mm at one stage but that sounded too fine to me (even for the Swiss).

Michael

1.5mm Michael. Not sure where I plucked 1 from.

I made some progress today. The stiffness in the vernier ring was due to the impact damage. The damage the seller reckoned he hadn't noticed on the ring he said rotated freely, 360 degrees.. The ring was wedged up so that only two points were making contact with the body. I pared most of the high spots off on the lathe while mounted in the hand turned chuck then used my scraper to expand the area of contact. I removed the travel limit stop (6 x 1.5mm) and now the thing rotates as it should, 360 degrees and smoothly.

I replaced the three M3 slot head screws used to retain the vernier's retaining plate with turned down cap screws as per your suggestion. The heads are 4.7mm in diameter and the thread length is 4.6mm. I have dismantled everything bar the pinion gear. I'm wondering about the auto feed release too ??.

I made a set of replacement collar pins. Re-purposed a 2mm bullet head nail. They are stepped, 1.9 down to 1.6mm. The collar is 5.5mm thick, the attached gear, 3mm. My pins are 7.5mm in length. I had had a go at boring the collar holes out to a larger diameter when I was at the spanner in hand stage, thinking I'd left some of the original pins behind. The larger diameter was the result of a failed attempt at a rebore, at a depth of just over 2 mm the bit would progress no further. To facilitate the removal of these pins I centre drilled the fat end with a tiny bit.

With the collar off I will make up another "ring spanner" , one this time that doesn't require a selection of various size drill bits for it to work.

BT

ps. Joe, the collar came off without excess force, the handle of my pin spanner is only about 150mm long.

Brilliant Bob!
What an interesting blog between Michael and you. I bet this becomes the 'go-to' instruction manual for Kaiser boring heads on the 'net.
Just an idea: what if you could use partially threaded pins in the collar say M2 or M2.5 - maybe with a slotted head or even a proud thin series Allen screw? Then you could open the boring head at will for cleaning and maintenance, rather than having to drill out the pins again.
Thanks for showing your progress in such detail.

Good work guys.

You can get extractable dowel pins in 4mm with M3 thread.
DP040-010-CH-1E Pins - Dowel - Extractable

Bob, a partial refund sounds fair to me. Like maybe half.

Clutch theory no. 2
The only part that I did not take apart was the gear cluster. It is joined with 2 screws and two dowels. I'm now wondering whether there is a friction clutch in there that when the head is over loaded the inner and outer gears spin in respect to one another.

In the mean time I'm wondering whether I should remove the conical top from mine and replace it with a threaded collar a little like Bob's. The top is hardened so it's not going to be easily cut down with what I have in the shed but without the sides putting it in say an ER collar would be far simpler. With something soft(er) I could do what Joe is suggesting - perhaps I could use a dog point grubscrew. The biggest question is whether I can cut an internal M27x0.5 thread to a pseudo Swiss standard...

Michael

Well Done Bob & Michael on this very exacting & time consuming piece of work.
Many others, I would guess, like myself, have been watching progress, & sometimes wondering if it was going to be accomplished.
Patience & perseverence have won !
regards
Bruce

Originally Posted by Bryan

Good work guys.

You can get extractable dowel pins in 4mm with M3 thread.
DP040-010-CH-1E Pins - Dowel - Extractable

Bob, a partial refund sounds fair to me. Like maybe half.

Bryan,

Handy to be aware of the existence of removable pins. Thank you.

The 3 holed collar is hardened, I could not drill deeper than a couple of millimetres before I destroyed the bit. I think Kaiser utilised the pins as a "don't touch, return to Kaiser" feature. A simple screw to lock the collar would have certainly facilitated user repair and maintenance.

Other than some slight corrosion, the internals, excluding the vernier ring, look to be in near perfect condition. While comments have been made regarding the complexity of the head, I reckon it is simpler and it has less parts than a Wohlhaupter, based on the photos I've seen of a dissected UPA-3.

Buying something that was not as described me off. Because the vernier ring was damaged I desperately wanted to dismantle the head. Based on suggestions here and their confirmation on the Swiss Yahoo site, I was able to open the thing up but more importantly, modify the vernier ring. And then there is the satisfaction of being familiar with the intimate workings of the device, any device for that matter. That's hard to beat.

I will post some of my photos on Practical Machinist so the seller will be aware of what he sold and the errors in his description. I will not mention who he is. You can bet other PM members either viewed that auction or bid on it. Pete " the Phantom " F did both, probably why I paid so much for the bloody thing.

BT

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I will post some of my photos on Practical Machinist so the seller will be aware of what he sold and the errors in his description. I will not mention who he is. You can bet other PM members either viewed that auction or bid on it. Pete " the Phantom " F did both, probably why I paid so much for the bloody thing.

BT

That should be entertaining. Please post a link here when you do....

PDW

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

And then there is the satisfaction of being familiar with the intimate workings of the device, any device for that matter. That's hard to beat.

That knowledge will help keep it performing in the years to come.. I'll keep an eye out for the PM posting too

Ray