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Thread: DIY power scraper
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24th October 2011, 12:37 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Joe,
Do you have any pictures of that you have done?
If I put a "rub plate" out the front it should take most of the load off the front bush/bearing that might help the saw to last longer(not that that is a huge issue as long as bunnings doesn't change supplier. So far the only mod to the saw are the two tapped holes in the gear.)
I've just thought of another use for the "left over plate" out the front. I can mount a comffy hande on it.
Stuart
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24th October 2011, 12:45 AM #17
No Stu, no photos.... but all I've done was put a layer of bronze on the "wingtips" where they bear on the narrow ribs in the cover. I filed the bronze layer so it had as good as no play.
I think your idea of a secondary external slideway is much better still.
After using a few Biax models and the Ren, I like the idea of a leather strap over the back of the hand and intend fitting one to my Aldix. See what you can dream up in your 'Bunnix' (or is it 'XU1ix'? - I like 'Bunnix' or 'Stuix' better).
Joe
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24th October 2011, 09:51 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
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Bunnix sounds about right
Got the T-shaped slide made today. Picked up the grub screws and bolts to hole it all together.
Just have to bore the 7ishmm hole for the pin tomorrow(anyone got a 6.95mm reamer? lol)
Any extra point if you recongnise the 2,4,6 block
Stuart
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25th October 2011, 12:42 AM #19
Whoa! That IS taking shape! Great work Stu!
Do I spot a familiar looking scraped blick in use?
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25th October 2011, 10:20 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Joe,
You do indeed.
Only two things done today
1. bore the hole for the pin.
2. find out that job on day one of extending the slot in the body was a waste of time. Because I'm going to have a 12mm max stroke it isn't necessary. (yes of course its obvious now!)
Stuart
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25th October 2011, 11:07 PM #21
Almost there!
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26th October 2011, 08:33 AM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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Outstanding work Stuart. Seems I might have to start one of those projects too. I have a slightly different idea on the mechanism. Everything at work is converting lineal motion to rotary and not the other way around. Still getting my head around that. Fantastic job.
Phil
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-12.774772,130.945917
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26th October 2011, 05:58 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Phil,
The MkI was just going to be a pivoting plate with 4 fixed stroke lengths, but I'd have to take the top of to change the stroke. Lets see your idea.
Not a lot of time today. Ground the grub screws down, they need the ends cleaned up and about 1mm more taken off them.(Though one doesn't really need to be done unless I'm going to be using stroke lengths less than 2mm)
Drilled the holes in the plate to get the adjustment allen keys in.
Put it together, It works! and its easier to line things up to adjust the stroke than I thought it would be.
Now I need to put some thought into the blade holder and rotation stopper. I'm thinking while I'm at it I may as well come up with some guide the stops sideways movement as well.
Stuart
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26th October 2011, 07:05 PM #24
Stu, in mine, the sidways stiffness is actually OK. The oilite bushes at both ends of the push rod seem to do a good enough job. Because they are round, the tilting is really the only problem.
Joe
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26th October 2011, 10:13 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Joe,
I guess you're right. I dont see how you could get much of a side load scrapping. Sometimes I'm solving problems that dont exist.
I wonder if making a power flaker would be as easy as changing the flat plates I'm thinking about using to stop rotation to two opposite ramps to force a twist?( I think maybe that one can wait awhile).
Stuart
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27th October 2011, 09:57 AM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi Stuart
I am considering a pneumatic scraper. Two options are to scratch build using the ram or use the pneumatic paint scraper I already have and build a stroke adjustable head to attach to it. Soon as I get back from holidays in Darwin I will post some pics of what I have to start with.
Phil
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-12.478152,130.983446
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27th October 2011, 06:26 PM #27
Phil: Biax also make a pneumatic version.
Pneumatic paint scrapers are often (if not always) and impact tool - no movement unless there is resistance. That doesn' work for metal scraping. I have read that someone added external springs to provide that resoistance to a Bosch (electric) paint scraper successfully. That might be an optin on a pneumatic one too.
However, the person with the Bosh one had never used a Biax and had nothing to compare to. Since you have, PLEASE DO experiment a bit and give us some feedback - I'm sure there are a few people here now who would be very interested. Not everyone has Stu's capabilities and patience and 'stu's toys'...
Joe
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27th October 2011, 07:44 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Phil,
Interesting idea, keep us updated.
Not much done today, tax time
OK guys I need some more help. Whats the angle on the blade holder?
RC, still with us? lol Can you give some more info on the rubber pad mentioned in your thread on PM?
Almost ready for you Ray
Thanks
Stuart
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27th October 2011, 08:02 PM #29
On the Biax it's 20 degrees (give or take), so the angle on the biax, same measurement as in the picture of Joe's would be 20+90 = 110 degrees.
I don't think it's critical, if it's out a bit one way or the other you would just change the angle to suit the cutting action anyway.
Ready when you are....
Regards
Ray
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27th October 2011, 08:05 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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Nasty Nasty time. Tax I had a call from them today. I’m a few days late on a BAS.
15 degrees if we had to throw a number at it. I’m not big on the rubber thing. (Wishing I could come up with a Condom joke here)
Long weekend, I’m here Saturday and Monday. If you wanted to get heads together for a few hours. Bring beer. Its important to me that you guys pull something like this out of nothing. First continent to do that.
Regards Phil.
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