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Thread: Douglas Shaper
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26th February 2012, 02:38 PM #16Dave J Guest
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26th February 2012 02:38 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th February 2012, 02:54 PM #17Dave J Guest
Hi Eric,
Your model is a clutch model like mine, so you can make a handle up with a pin drilled across it to go into the centre of the large pulley to wind it over after the clutch is disengaged. It has a a hole in the clutch cover so I am presuming it's for that.
To use you ram scale you have the ram at the rear position and it will give you the accurate stroke length.
Dave
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26th February 2012, 03:23 PM #18.
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Mine is a clutchless ball bearing model. It has a warning in the form of a paint splattered transfer stating that No. 2 Fibre Grease must be used in all ball bearing spindles NOT OIL. The serial number is B/171/1710.
I should pull my spindles apart and relube them, but with what?
I wonder if Jordan has any more modern lubrication information for his Hercus 270. That's assuming Hercus retained the same bearing configuration in their reincarnation of the little Douglas.
BT
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26th February 2012, 03:52 PM #19Dave J Guest
Hi Bob,
Maybe your handle came from an earlier model and was mixed up getting them out of the TAFE's ?
I have mine down at the moment, it started off as a repaint before Christmas but has now grown into a major transformation and repaint. I am about halfway though so will post when it is tried and tested for anyone else to copy if they want to.
I have been through the bearings and they are only standard unshielded ball bearings, but I have now decided I am now going to replace them all. I just used wheel bearing grease as I don't see what harm it could do to the ball bearing. It's funny they have small screws in both housing which looks like oil holes, but it states not to use oil.
Dave
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26th February 2012, 06:14 PM #20Member
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- Jul 2011
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- Adelaide
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Dave great shaper pr0n But then Bob also made sure I could see his original vice in his photos. I am envious already.
I did just have a go at cutting some aluminium (unknown material) the surface is a little rough but then I think the tool is in a lathe tool holder and I have no actual idea about what geometry it should have.
I am hoping you guys can point me at some sources for cheap tool holders and the like. Also some advice on what I am going to need for the basics (one of my plans is to build a Jacobs gear hobber for which I have the castings so I want to do dovetail slides)
It is a mesmerising machine It tool a lot for me to walk out of the shed and come for dinner.
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26th February 2012, 06:44 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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26th February 2012, 08:40 PM #22GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2003
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I reckon you guys with motorised shapers are spoilt.
This is my armstrong model and that is why it doesn't get a lot of use.
I think it is an Adept No1 or a copy as there are no markings on the castings.Cheers,
Rod
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26th February 2012, 08:45 PM #23GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Rod,
At least your's will stop if you fall asleep
Does it have autofeed? I only ask because crossfeed hand wheel seems to be on the wrong side......
Stuart
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26th February 2012, 10:03 PM #24GOLD MEMBER
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What type of erganomic handle would you consider exceptable Eric,maybe one of the gerry shops might have something suitable.
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27th February 2012, 12:07 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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27th February 2012, 01:31 AM #26Member
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- Jul 2011
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- Adelaide
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I am going to look around the local machinery places for something like a milling vise handle tomorrow
I have been watching videos of other shapers online. It seems that the clapper box is supposed to lift on the return stroke. Mine is far too stiff to do this. Is this a problem ?
BTW I spent 6 hours watching it work tonight. I need another one now.
Regards
Eric
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27th February 2012, 07:36 AM #27GOLD MEMBER
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The Clapper should move freely,knock the Tapered pin out,there maybe some crap on it or there may be something binding the Clapper on the side.
In regards to tooling the Lock tool holders or similar can be used.
If you purchase this type of holder you will need to make sure that the width of the tool holder is no more than 1/2" otherwise it might not fit through the Lantern post.
Another choice would be to just use pieces of Tool Steel direct in the Lantern,if doing this I would suggest not to use less than 3/8" and prefferably 1/2",as the smaller pieces will not have the strength when cutting.
You could of course make up a new Lantern with a wider slot to accomadate a thicker shank tool of upto 5/8".
You could also make your own tool holders as others have done,this in particular is normally needed when doing Internal work.
When you fit your cutting tooling into your Lantern make sure that the cutting tool is seated at the rear of the holder against the heavy washer and any packing piece is at the front clamped by the screw.
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28th February 2012, 12:00 AM #28Member
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- Jul 2011
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- Adelaide
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@Pipeclay thanks for the directions, the tapered pin knocked out easily a tiny burr on the clapper was the problem now it is very free.
Have you got a URL to anything suitable ?
I have no heavy washer clearly I need to be making one. Does anybody have the approximate dimensions of the original ? or a clear photo I can scale from?
Regards
Eric
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28th February 2012, 12:16 AM #29.
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If nobody beats me to it, I will photograph some of the Lock tool holders that Peter mentions and measure the washer, tomorrow night.
BT
ps. Here is a photo showing the large washer.
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28th February 2012, 10:35 AM #30.
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- Perth WA
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The tool post washer on my Douglas has an OD of 56.5mm, an ID of 32mm and is 7.3mm thick.
BT
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