Thread: Douglas Shaper

Originally Posted by lamestllama

Hey Bob


Also how do you guys inch these things over when doing setups ?(there is no easy way to do it by hand that I can find)

Eric

Hi Eric,
Your model is a clutch model like mine, so you can make a handle up with a pin drilled across it to go into the centre of the large pulley to wind it over after the clutch is disengaged. It has a a hole in the clutch cover so I am presuming it's for that.

To use you ram scale you have the ram at the rear position and it will give you the accurate stroke length.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Is your shaper a bearing model Bob? I have parts here from a earlier bushed model and there are differences in the parts.

Dave

Mine is a clutchless ball bearing model. It has a warning in the form of a paint splattered transfer stating that No. 2 Fibre Grease must be used in all ball bearing spindles NOT OIL. The serial number is B/171/1710.

I should pull my spindles apart and relube them, but with what?

I wonder if Jordan has any more modern lubrication information for his Hercus 270. That's assuming Hercus retained the same bearing configuration in their reincarnation of the little Douglas.

BT

Hi Bob,
Maybe your handle came from an earlier model and was mixed up getting them out of the TAFE's ?
I have mine down at the moment, it started off as a repaint before Christmas but has now grown into a major transformation and repaint. I am about halfway though so will post when it is tried and tested for anyone else to copy if they want to.

I have been through the bearings and they are only standard unshielded ball bearings, but I have now decided I am now going to replace them all. I just used wheel bearing grease as I don't see what harm it could do to the ball bearing. It's funny they have small screws in both housing which looks like oil holes, but it states not to use oil.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Hi Bob,
I am wondering about that, my machine came with a aluminium cast hand as in the picture below. It's also the same one that is pictured in the online manual.
The ram locking handle is also solid cast brass on mine and looks like the one pictured in the manual.

Dave

Dave great shaper pr0n But then Bob also made sure I could see his original vice in his photos. I am envious already.

I did just have a go at cutting some aluminium (unknown material) the surface is a little rough but then I think the tool is in a lathe tool holder and I have no actual idea about what geometry it should have.

I am hoping you guys can point me at some sources for cheap tool holders and the like. Also some advice on what I am going to need for the basics (one of my plans is to build a Jacobs gear hobber for which I have the castings so I want to do dovetail slides)

It is a mesmerising machine It tool a lot for me to walk out of the shed and come for dinner.

Originally Posted by lamestllama

It is a mesmerising machine It tool a lot for me to walk out of the shed and come for dinner.

It's too late Eric it seems it's got you. I will put your name on the rapidly growing list of us who need counseling.
If woodlee hasn't finished with the wandering stick yet I can easily do another one.

Phil

I reckon you guys with motorised shapers are spoilt.
This is my armstrong model and that is why it doesn't get a lot of use.
I think it is an Adept No1 or a copy as there are no markings on the castings.

Hi Rod,
At least your's will stop if you fall asleep
Does it have autofeed? I only ask because crossfeed hand wheel seems to be on the wrong side......

Stuart

What type of erganomic handle would you consider exceptable Eric,maybe one of the gerry shops might have something suitable.

Originally Posted by Stustoys

Hi Rod,
At least your's will stop if you fall asleep
Does it have autofeed? I only ask because crossfeed hand wheel seems to be on the wrong side......

Stuart

Manual feed. It's possible it was assembled on the wrong side as I'm cack handed.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

What type of erganomic handle would you consider exceptable Eric,maybe one of the gerry shops might have something suitable.

I am going to look around the local machinery places for something like a milling vise handle tomorrow

I have been watching videos of other shapers online. It seems that the clapper box is supposed to lift on the return stroke. Mine is far too stiff to do this. Is this a problem ?

BTW I spent 6 hours watching it work tonight. I need another one now.

Regards

Eric

The Clapper should move freely,knock the Tapered pin out,there maybe some crap on it or there may be something binding the Clapper on the side.

In regards to tooling the Lock tool holders or similar can be used.

If you purchase this type of holder you will need to make sure that the width of the tool holder is no more than 1/2" otherwise it might not fit through the Lantern post.

Another choice would be to just use pieces of Tool Steel direct in the Lantern,if doing this I would suggest not to use less than 3/8" and prefferably 1/2",as the smaller pieces will not have the strength when cutting.

You could of course make up a new Lantern with a wider slot to accomadate a thicker shank tool of upto 5/8".

You could also make your own tool holders as others have done,this in particular is normally needed when doing Internal work.

When you fit your cutting tooling into your Lantern make sure that the cutting tool is seated at the rear of the holder against the heavy washer and any packing piece is at the front clamped by the screw.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

The Clapper should move freely,knock the Tapered pin out,there maybe some crap on it or there may be something binding the Clapper on the side.

@Pipeclay thanks for the directions, the tapered pin knocked out easily a tiny burr on the clapper was the problem now it is very free.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

In regards to tooling the Lock tool holders or similar can be used.
.

Have you got a URL to anything suitable ?

Originally Posted by pipeclay

When you fit your cutting tooling into your Lantern make sure that the cutting tool is seated at the rear of the holder against the heavy washer and any packing piece is at the front clamped by the screw.

I have no heavy washer clearly I need to be making one. Does anybody have the approximate dimensions of the original ? or a clear photo I can scale from?

Regards

Eric

If nobody beats me to it, I will photograph some of the Lock tool holders that Peter mentions and measure the washer, tomorrow night.

BT

ps. Here is a photo showing the large washer.

The tool post washer on my Douglas has an OD of 56.5mm, an ID of 32mm and is 7.3mm thick.

BT