Thread: Douglas Shaper

The Original handle is only around 6" long,so the one you have should not be a problem.

The Crosslide screw should be firm but not overly tight,the most resistance you should feel should be from the weight of the table.

Similarly the Vertical screw for the table rise/fall should have resistance when raising due to the weight of the table but when lowering with support plate/guide not in place it should be virtually free with no resistance.

A couple of things you could check are,

At the far end of the table Crosslide screw there are 2 nuts and usually a brass spacer,if these nuts are too tight the will put resistance onto the Crosslide screw,(there needs to be a little backlash here) if you want loosen them and see if you can feel it free up.You may even want to traverse the Table from one side to the other and check that there is no foriegn material on the thread.If you do decide to strip the Table tp check the Nut be careful not to missplace,lose or damage the Paper shim that is attached or fitted to the Bottom keeper plate on the table.

With the Vertical travel you can check that there is no swarf built up at the base of the nut where the Vertical screw passes through.Also when you have the Table traversed all the way to the Left when standing at the Front of the Shaper check the 2 Bevel gears that transfer the Horizontal shaft to Vertical shaft,swarf cab build up here making in very hard to turn the Screw.If there is swarf in this location it can be fiddly to remove,if you use any type of cleaning solution try and use something that will Air dry.This will normally remove any oil or grease from the swarf and allow you to easily remove any swarf with either a small magnet,pick,screwdriver or similar small tool.

Hopefully David would of allready made these adjustments and cleaning,as I think he states ready for use.

One other thing to check with the Vertical is that the Clamp for the Table is loose,the clamp is located opposite your feed regulator ( if there is no clamp there check to see that it hasnt been replaced with a Set Screw or similar) .

Eric,

The original handle is fabricated, not cast. It would be easy enough to replicate. I will post some photos shortly.

Bob.

Nice

I would have bought that if it was closer . The cost of moving it

Mike

Originally Posted by morrisman

Nice

I would have bought that if it was closer . The cost of moving it

Mike

It cost me only $150 to get it from Sydney to Adelaide. The seller dropped it of at a transport depot. I used Craig Arthur Transport to get it from there to Adelaide. Then $20 trailer hire to my place.

So $170 for transport is not so bad given how much it weighs.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

The Original handle is only around 6" long,so the one you have should not be a problem.
.

Other than it is absolutely not ergonomic

Originally Posted by pipeclay

The Crosslide screw should be firm but not overly tight,the most resistance you should feel should be from the weight of the table.
.

It is very very stiff It is very hard to get it to move.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Similarly the Vertical screw for the table rise/fall should have resistance when raising due to the weight of the table but when lowering with support plate/guide not in place it should be virtually free with no resistance.
.

I found the slide lock on this and this is much freer and iI suspect there is some swarf in the gears making it a little notchy.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

A couple of things you could check are,

At the far end of the table Crosslide screw there are 2 nuts and usually a brass spacer,if these nuts are too tight the will put resistance onto the Crosslide screw,(there needs to be a little backlash here) if you want loosen them and see if you can feel it free up.You may even want to traverse the Table from one side to the other and check that there is no foriegn material on the thread.If you do decide to strip the Table tp check the Nut be careful not to missplace,lose or damage the Paper shim that is attached or fitted to the Bottom keeper plate on the table.
.

I have about half a turn of backlash on the cross slide handle. I can see the space between the nuts and collar on the end of the crossfeed leadscrew grow and shrink as I change direction (in fact during this change of direction the leadscrew is very free to turn) so I dont think it is foreign material on the thread.

I would love to avoid disassembling this right now as I aready have another machine in parts. I was hoping to use the shaper to fix some of those parts.

Originally Posted by pipeclay

With the Vertical travel you can check that there is no swarf built up at the base of the nut where the Vertical screw passes through.Also when you have the Table traversed all the way to the Left when standing at the Front of the Shaper check the 2 Bevel gears that transfer the Horizontal shaft to Vertical shaft,swarf cab build up here making in very hard to turn the Screw.If there is swarf in this location it can be fiddly to remove,if you use any type of cleaning solution try and use something that will Air dry.This will normally remove any oil or grease from the swarf and allow you to easily remove any swarf with either a small magnet,pick,screwdriver or similar small tool.

I am pretty sure you are on the money with this axis. I can see the bit of swarf making this notchy now. I just have to get it out

Originally Posted by pipeclay

Hopefully David would of allready made these adjustments and cleaning,as I think he states ready for use.

One other thing to check with the Vertical is that the Clamp for the Table is loose,the clamp is located opposite your feed regulator ( if there is no clamp there check to see that it hasnt been replaced with a Set Screw or similar) .

The clamp is a bit agricultural looking (lever welded on to a bolt) but it is there.

Thanks for the reply. It solved half my problems

Regards

Eric

The original handle is definitely agricultural. An alternative could be a Hercus T42 ( as shown ) or T43 handle or a mill vise handle found on Ebay to suit a 5/8" square shaft.

Eric, if you would like a rough sketch of the original handle, I'd be happy to oblige.

BT

Hey Bob

Brilliant !!! You where not kidding when you said the original handle was a bit agricultural

I don't have welding facilities atm so I will probably scrounge up a Hercus handle (it is a pity they sold all there stock they are about 5 minutes from me).

I also realise that the ram position and tool eccentric handle is 3/4 inch hole (i don't have one of these either) was this just a spanner or did they have a handle?

Also how do you guys inch these things over when doing setups ?(there is no easy way to do it by hand that I can find)

Eric

Hi Eric,

Nice looking machine.

Congratulations on joining the shaper club... you do realise of course that there is a support group for this affliction..

If you find youself turning on the shaper, and being mesmerized just by watching it run... then you are hooked..

There is a USB stick doing the rounds, courtesy of Phil (Steamwhisperer) that has a collection of shaper books and tooling... I think it's in Katherine at present.. talk to Kev (woodlee).

Regards
Ray

Originally Posted by lamestllama

It cost me only $150 to get it from Sydney to Adelaide. The seller dropped it of at a transport depot. I used Craig Arthur Transport to get it from there to Adelaide. Then $20 trailer hire to my place.

So $170 for transport is not so bad given how much it weighs.

That is a bargain ..the transport mobs here charge like a wounded bull .

Mike

Originally Posted by lamestllama

Hi All

I have just acquired a Douglas Shaper. Something I have long wanted.

DOUGLAS / HERCUS SHAPER | eBay

Yeah the price was a bit steep but they don't come up that often.


Unfortunately I need some advice and some parts already.

Besides having a very flimsy non original vise I am also missing the handle needed to lift the knee and manual cross travel (the machine came with a modified box spanner). I will be willing to pay any reasonable sum for an original vise and/or an original handle. (I won't be holding my breath waiting for offers but I did have to try).

My other question is how much effort should be required to either lift the knee or use the cross travel manually. With the supplied box spanner (about 6 inches of leverage) I can only just manage to do the cross traverse. Is this what I should expect or do I need to pull this apart?

Regards

Eric

Hi,
Just check your gib adjustments as it sounds like they are tight as well. From factory they came with a wax type paper between the gib and table under the 4 bolts.

Dave

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Eric,
ps, ps You might have been asking about the ram. I carefully move mine by pulling on the vee belt.

Yes I did mean the ram. Pulling on the vee belt works ok but is a bit uncouth

Eric

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

Eric,

The original handle is fabricated, not cast. It would be easy enough to replicate. I will post some photos shortly.

Bob.

Hi Bob,
I am wondering about that, my machine came with a aluminium cast hand as in the picture below. It's also the same one that is pictured in the online manual.
The ram locking handle is also solid cast brass on mine and looks like the one pictured in the manual.

Dave

You've got me there Dave. I just had a look at the parts diagram and low and behold, there's your handle, not the bush mechanic's version I have. I will undertake some investigation.

A disillusioned BT

Originally Posted by lamestllama

Yes I did mean the ram. Pulling on the vee belt works ok but is a bit uncouth

Eric

Perfectly stated!