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  1. #1
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    Default Making a Drawbar

    Hi Guys,
    I need to make a draw bar and just wanted some tips. It seems very straight forward, but I have a few options, wondering if I can get some expertise on the best way forward.

    My draw bar is currently an M14, but most of my tooling is M16 so I need to make an M16 threaded draw bar.

    Option 1 is to purchase some threaded rod, M16 and weld a Nut to the top of it

    Option 2 is to purchase some oversize Mild steel (too soft?) and turn it down on the lathe, and cut the thread into it, and then Mill the hex/square head onto it.

    Cheers

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Option 1 works just fine, option 2 looks more professional but that's just my opinion and no one else ever sees it anyway. To do option 2 properly you need to start with a round or hex bigger than 16mm so you can have at least 20mm spanner flats. 1018 or 1020 mild steel will be fine.

  4. #3
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    I would use 4140 thread both ends and use a hex coupler either pinned ( roll pin,spring pin sellok pin or dowell ) or if needed welded.

    If a hex coupler of correct thread size can not be found then a normal hex nut.

    I would not be using mild steel for the draw bolt/bar.

  5. #4
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    I had the same problem with my mill. I turned a length of rod down to suit, welded some threaded rod (16mm) to one end and machined the other end to take a thick washer I made and a nut with the thread drilled out. The original drawbar is used for the drill chuck rarely (I mostly use collets) and the supplied 75mm face mill never since my first attempt. I made the nut for the new drawbar the same size (16mm) so I didn't have to find different spanners. The nut was welded on at the end. This drawbar has performed perfectly for a long time now. One thing I found was the washer should fit inside the external spline. I had to turn it down a bit, later. It limited the Z axis movement. It took a long time before I realised tho. I try to keep the extension of the quill to a minimum. I have bought a 50mm boring head which only came with an MT3 taper so needs an adaptor. Naturally, being only MT3 it had a 12mm drawbar thread. Now I have to make a drawbar to fit this.

    Dean

  6. #5
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I made mine (m16) from 16mm black bar threaded on one end, and a bit of 30mm bar drilled and then welded onto the other (weld on top). I then turned the 30mm bar for about 5mm to the correct size to center it in the mill spindle, then shoulder to tighten against and finally machined in the hex. There are pictures on the forum somewhere i'm sure.....
    One thing i figured was i'd rather use soft steel for the bar, that way if something was going to strip it would be the bar, not the expensive toolholder!
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  7. #6
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Here we go, looks like i welded both ends of the "cap" on.
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...36#post1640436
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #7
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    They all seem very fancy compared to mine ... I use ISO40 tooling and just made up drawbar out of M16 threaded rod with a nut welded to one end. It has a second loose locking/tightening nut and I also made up a collar that centres the rod. Very simple and very effective.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vernonv View Post
    They all seem very fancy compared to mine ... I use ISO40 tooling and just made up drawbar out of M16 threaded rod with a nut welded to one end. It has a second loose locking/tightening nut and I also made up a collar that centres the rod. Very simple and very effective.
    I am way too tight to use a full length of threaded rod!

    I like the sound of the locking nut. Now if you could design an unlocking nut for the taper!

    Dean

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    I am way too tight to use a full length of threaded rod!
    Must be expensive were you come from. I actually bought a 2.4m length of it - use it for lots of other projects as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldneweng View Post
    Now if you could design an unlocking nut for the taper!
    Yes, it's called a hammer. A gentle tap dislodges the ISO/NT40 taper pretty easily.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
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  11. #10
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    Option 2 seemed appropriate when it came to making additional bars for the 13. I used 4140. I did later read on another forum that a bloke had made a drawbar with interchangeable threaded ends. Initially I thought it was a neat idea but I reckon there would be nearly as much work making something like that as there would be making three bars. And ongoing fiddling around changing ends.

    BT

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  12. #11
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    I made a M12 drawbar for a slitting saw holder I purchased from ebay. Not as good as Anorak Bob's but I did make in about an hour or two.

    It's made from bright mild steel bar which turned down and cut a thread on with the lathe and then I welded a cut off bolt head to the top. I drilled out the bolt head took it home and worked out the length in-situ, took it back to work and welded it together. It's a bit rough but works great.

    Ben.
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  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    I would not be using mild steel for the draw bolt/bar.
    Why not?

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    Why not?
    Goodness me Pete the answer is so obvious.. A mild steel thread will strip when you use the three foot cheater bar on the spanner...

    I am always amused by these threads.. I have made heaps of drawbars over the years.... There is no mystical incantation needed to make them. No chicken sacrifices.. They are a long bolt whose sole job is to stop the tool from dropping out..
    Light red, the colour of choice for the discerning man.

  15. #14
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    Yep, 4140 is the go.
    Will wear better and not deform the thread when knocking tools out of the quill.
    Built to last.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Goodness me Pete the answer is so obvious.. A mild steel thread will strip when you use the three foot cheater bar on the spanner...

    I am always amused by these threads.. I have made heaps of drawbars over the years.... There is no mystical incantation needed to make them. No chicken sacrifices.. They are a long bolt whose sole job is to stop the tool from dropping out..
    Agreed, nothing wrong with using 4140 if that's what floats your boat, but I see no reason to use a high tensile steel in something as mundane as a a drawbar. You don't get anywhere near the yield point of the steel, even the cheesiest black bar. I can see the potential argument about the threads if you're using the bar incorrectly, but the drawbars only need to be backed off a few turns, then whack the top to release the taper and then continue to undo them by hand. I've never deformed any threads and I've whacked on some bars far harder than I'm comfortable with considering there's some precision bearings on the other side of the equation!!!

    When I make drawbars I normally single point some threads on the end of the appropriate size rod and then bore some hexbar for the rod. I've found by case hardening the hexbar it isn't damaged by the hammer, although I have copper hammers these days for stuff like that. I just Loctite the hexcar to the rod with stud lock. Brazing would obviously be better but I haven't had a drawbar head secured by Loctite come off yet.

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