Thread: Drill Arbor Query

I would give Mick Moyle's Enginers Supplies in Summer Hill, Sydney a try BT. Their phone number is 02 9799 8444, and they are generally pretty good price wise, but the last drill arbor I got there was Chinese, I don't know if that is likely to be a problem for you or not. Nothing wrong with your own efforts from what I've seen Bob.
Rob.

Bob, do you mean that the chuck has a 3/8" threaded end or hole?
I would think that turning your own arbour between centres would be the go - with one of the centres into a chucked 1/4" dia female centre held by the mounted chuck itself.
ALternatively, someone here with a cylindrical grinder oruniversal tool and cutter grinder could grind one between centres the same way....
Cheers,
Joe

I will probably be going to Mick Moyles tomorrow if I do I will see if they havje an arbor.

Originally Posted by jhovel

Bob, do you mean that the chuck has a 3/8" threaded end or hole?
I would think that turning your own arbour between centres would be the go - with one of the centres into a chucked 1/4" dia female centre held by the mounted chuck itself.
ALternatively, someone here with a cylindrical grinder oruniversal tool and cutter grinder could grind one between centres the same way....
Cheers,
Joe

Hi Joe,

There is no thread. The arbor is simply a round bar with a Jacobs taper on one end. I'm chasing a metric arbor because amongst the ISO 30 collets Charles Stroom sent me from Holland, is a 10 and a 12mm collet. I don't think these collets collapse the way ER collets do and I'm not prepared to wreck one trying to find out. If I have no luck finding a commercial arbour, I could have a crack at a home made version using some PG 4140.

I had to go up to the shed to look at my dividing head. I had the camera. Here is an 0-1/8" Albrecht with the original 3/8" J0 arbor on the left. The sensitive attachment is from Royal in the States, a tasty morsel GQ procured for me.

Bob.

Originally Posted by welder

I will probably be going to Mick Moyles tomorrow if I do I will see if they havje an arbor.

Hello Andre,

If you do happen to find yourself at Mick's and don't mind asking about the 12mm arbor, I'll be grateful.

Bob.

I am afraid that Mick Moyles didn't have a straight arbor. They said to try Blackwoods or turn down a mt2 arbor.

Thank you Andre.

I imagine you bought something to add to your burgeoning collection.

Bob.

All the adapters out there seem to be imperial for the jacobs taper or metric with a B taper.

How about a 1/2" and turn the straight shank down 12mm between centres?

Nev

Nev,

I looked at the Albrecht German website and it is as you have stated, B taper for a metric cylindrical arbor. I might be safer four jawing a bit of ground bar and turning a J1 taper on the end. I could even fool around for a day and a half with my tool post grinder and grind the taper.

Bob.

Originally Posted by Anorak Bob

I might be safer four jawing a bit of ground bar and turning a J1 taper on the end.

Bob, I would expect better concentricity from turning between centres.

Depending on how good the T&C grinder is, it may be easier to set up a 1/2 " arbor on centres and grind it down to 12mm. Trying to set up a J1 taper could be difficult without several trial pieces.

Michael

Originally Posted by Michael G

Depending on how good the T&C grinder is, it may be easier to set up a 1/2 " arbor on centres and grind it down to 12mm. Trying to set up a J1 taper could be difficult without several trial pieces.

Michael

Bobs just looking for a good excuse to crack out his new sine bar!