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  1. #16
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    Jul 2010
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    Default

    To the guys that have the books. Are there any reasons given for this set up?
    Looking at it, it scares me a little. I know some lathe owners live in fear of spinning a drill in the tailstock taper, so maybe that's it?(though I'm not sure I'd use my live center if I was running that drill through in one go)
    If you were step drilling I guess it would make changing drill faster.


    Why not use a boring bar?(assuming your not making 20off)

    Stuart

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  3. #17
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    Jun 2007
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    From my lack of experience I would think that the type of setup with the parallel section with internal M/T would be suited to a lathe that may have either no M/T in there tailstock or if a M/T drill 2 sizes above the tailstock taper was to be used.

    I have used a lathe dog attached to a M/T drill to give better drive when drilling large holes when a smaller than desired pilot is used.( So the drill does not spin in the tail stock taper.)

    Cant comment on why a boring bar would not be used except for the common reasons.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    530

    Default Flex

    On jobs with a deep hole of say around 13-16mm diameter I've found boring bars flex too much. When using a drill, providing you use a centre drill and drill slowly to the shoulder, there is minimal flex.

  5. #19
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    Jan 2009
    Location
    perth wa
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    112

    Default Drill holder

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    The tool that H & F sell can be bought much cheaper on Ebay $20 --$30

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Richmond
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    18

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post


    I assume the only reason to do this is if the drills taper or shank doesn't match the tails stock ie is larger. Looks a bit dangerous to me, same as the Americans' idea of holding a piece of stock by hand and drilling against those morse taper Vee blocks in the tailstock.
    When we see some setups the first thoughts are that it could be a bit dangerous. The method shown above is a recognised method of holding/driving a drill in a lathe and is still shown in most text books. Here is a page from an old text book explaning how it does work with safety even on through holes. Hope it helps. All these old NSWGR Apprentice text books come in handy at times!! Worth looking for them at flea markets.
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  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    On jobs with a deep hole of say around 13-16mm diameter I've found boring bars flex too much. When using a drill, providing you use a centre drill and drill slowly to the shoulder, there is minimal flex.
    But we would seem to be dealing with drills much larger than 16mm and at least the one in the picture is not what I would call a deep hole

    Quote Originally Posted by OldRustyToolie View Post
    The method shown above is a recognised method of holding/driving a drill in a lathe and is still shown in most text books.
    You do notice there is an important part in the sketch that is missing in the above picture?

    Stuart

  8. #22
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    May 2015
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    Richmond
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    But we would seem to be dealing with drills much larger than 16mm and at least the one in the picture is not what I would call a deep hole


    You do notice there is an important part in the sketch that is missing in the above picture?

    Stuart
    What part would that be to save us from a guessing competition?!

  9. #23
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    Oct 2006
    Location
    Armidale NSW
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    He is probably talking about the forcing bar ... however you could use the saddle (crossslide and toolholder/post) to provide a rearward force.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  10. #24
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    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    I'm guessing the lantern tool post is supposed to be acting as the forcing bar??

    Whether this setup is adequately safe or not it still looks like it has a margin for error greater than having a drill in the chuck or using a boring bar. So I can only assume it is a speed thing??
    ..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vernonv View Post
    He is probably talking about the forcing bar ...
    He is.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vernonv View Post
    however you could use the saddle (crossslide and toolholder/post) to provide a rearward force.
    Maybe you could, you could do a lot of things.. but that's not what the picture is showing.

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I'm guessing the lantern tool post is supposed to be acting as the forcing bar??
    Then it could be argued its in the wrong place. If it is being used as a force bar, why the bar/rest parallel to the bed?

    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    So I can only assume it is a speed thing??
    So far thats my best guess. Though I have to assume you're making a lot of them and you dont have a (large)drill press.(which is fine, we don't all that camel backs... I'm just trying to find out why someone would use such a setup...... hey I might even be talked into using it myself)

    Thinking about it a little more step drilling with this setup could be out(I would think) as starting the drill could be some what tricky in a large hole. Could be wrong though.

    Stuart

    p.s just because its in a book doesn't make it a great idea. One of my books says to get the hardest possible result quench tools in Mercury.

  12. #26
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    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by DSEL74 View Post
    I'm guessing the lantern tool post is supposed to be acting as the forcing bar???
    Yes, that's what I was getting at also.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Then it could be argued its in the wrong place. If it is being used as a force bar, why the bar/rest parallel to the bed?
    No, the actual lantern post provides the rearward pressure, not the bar in the lantern post ... you would do so by manually holding the saddle handwheel so that the lantern post is being pushed towards the tailstock. Pressure would have to be adjusted as the tailstock is extended.

    It would provide the same function as the forcing bar, however if it was me I would have the lantern post closer to the drill holder.
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    Then it could be argued its in the wrong place.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vernonv View Post
    No, the actual lantern post provides the rearward pressure
    Quote Originally Posted by Vernonv View Post
    however if it was me I would have the lantern post closer to the drill holder.
    It would seem we agree IF the lantern post is being used in place of the forcing bar then it is indeed in the wrong place.

    The reason I say IF is because my guess as to why the long flat bar is being held in the lantern holder is that the carriage isn't being moved.
    If you move the lantern in you're then supporting the bar in the wrong place.................at least so says the sketch.

    Stuart

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    It would seem we agree IF the lantern post is being used in place of the forcing bar then it is indeed in the wrong place.
    It would now appear so ... the only difference being you say "wrong", I say "less than ideal".
    Cheers.

    Vernon.
    __________________________________________________
    Bite off more than you can chew and then chew like crazy.

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