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Thread: Drill press mods
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16th August 2014, 11:21 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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Your Waldown looks great, amazing what a bit of lateral thinking can achieve.
Nice work on the conversions, it's great to see unused equipment being recycled.
I'm jealous of your abilities.
Kryn
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16th August 2014 11:21 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th August 2014, 07:00 PM #17
Turned up a table dog for the DP out of ally using an old Triton work table knob (found four on a table in a skip bin, was expecting the plastic type but these ally ones are a winner) to make it easily removable. For those lazy holes in longer stuff where you want to hold it by hand instead of clamping and could do with something to rest it against for if the bit grabs.
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19th August 2014, 07:12 PM #18Mechanical Butcher
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That's a new one to me. Better than relying the column.
Bonza!
Jordan
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19th August 2014, 08:14 PM #19
Can't take credit for it unfortunately but after seeing a kid smash his fingers against the column last year when he was holding in to close, a bit grabbed and he didn't let go I thought it was a real simple yet effective idea.
Works well with clamps as well as they are designed for downward not lateral pressure, just clamp with the piece resting against the dog then you don't have to screw it down so hard.
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20th August 2014, 10:03 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
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20th August 2014, 12:04 PM #21.
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I use a budget level cross slide vice for most metal work.
For wood work I leave the cross slide vice where it is and clamp a wooden table into the vice.
The table is an old veneered cupboard door about 400 x 600 mm with a full length piece of 50 x 75 pine batten screwed into the back of the door and it is the batten that is clamped into the vice.
This means any metaliferous oily swarf on the DP table and in the cross slide vice does not come into contact with the wood and the table itself can still be driven around using the cross slide vice screws. I've used a DP table with a fence but find t easier to clamp a piece of wood to the table to act as a fence and then drive the table and pseudo fence into position rather then fiddling with moving the fence on a fixed table.
To convert back to metal drill I just remove the wooden table.
Also on the wooden table is an adjustable height toggle clamp *that blue thing) that slides up and down on a steel post bolted into the wooden table. I rarely used the clamp but I often use the steel post as a dog. A set of holes drilled through the wooden table means the position of the clamp post can be changed to suit the situation.
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20th August 2014, 04:30 PM #22.
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I have a Waldown and I reckon there is not much that can be improved on. I'm lazy and seldom change the belt position which deems the installation of a VFD superfluous and I find the 1 horse motor attractive and powerful enough not to warrant replacement. The drill was in a pretty poor state when I bought it. Some plonker ( or plonkers ) had tried to chain drill the table in half necessitating a replacement. The table elevating handle had been welded to the pinion gear because the original grubscrew had been misplaced which required repair. The only real "improvement" IMHO was replacing all the handles and the motor adjustment plates with 316 versions. Oh, and a lick of paint.
I do like Chris' quill lock. Worth doing if the lock doesn't smack into the capstan handles. My little Tough drill features a quill lock as standard but the lever is located on the left hand side, collision free.
BT
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20th August 2014, 08:47 PM #23Cba
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Hi Bob, I do not remember why I decided to put the lever to the right and not to the left. But there is plenty distance to the capstan handles. See pics below. The nut is an Aluminium Bronze turning (simply because I have a few billets of the stuff handy). It is an interference fit into the quill casting. It takes a couple hammer smacks to press it in (or knock it out with a punch to take the pic). The reason is obvious, to prevent the nut from spinning when tightening the lever. Thread is M8. The handle itself I bough in the 80's for a job, kept a few just in case one day they come handy.
1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg
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20th August 2014, 09:39 PM #24.
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Hello Chris,
It is even easier for me to fit a handle because the casting is already threaded. A handle a bit shorter than the table clamping lever shown and a sharper angle would do the job.
Bob.
009 (Large).JPG 005 (Large).JPG
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20th August 2014, 10:14 PM #25Cba
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Your Waldown must be a newer model, I see quite a few improvements. This is my nameplate, no idea how old the machine is, maybe someone can tell?
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It must be quite old. It would have taken the previous owner(s) decades to almost gang-drill the table in two:
6.jpg
I could not find a spare table in better condition. And if there was, it would probably be too expensive. So I used JB weld to at least get back to a flat surface. It seems to hold up pretty well, because I did the "restoration" in 2006 and have been using it a fair bit since. At some stage some brute had even welded some jig to the tabletop.
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20th August 2014, 10:40 PM #26.
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Mine is a 3M Chris. The only similarities with the 8SN would be the pinion gear and capstan, incorporating the superb depth stop, and the tin belt guards.
Bob.
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20th August 2014, 11:00 PM #27GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Bob, have you fitted a 3 phase motor and inverter to your drill press as I notice that it has variable speed and a reversing switch?
Kryn
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28th September 2014, 05:46 PM #28Cba
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I bought this miniature Accupro keyless drill chuck NOS for AU$33 shipped, because the seller said it had seized up and nobody made a bid. I took a bit a risk, as it could have rusted or worse. And it said "made in Spain", not exactly famous for chucks.
0.jpg
Here a size comparison, left an Albrecht 10mm, right the Accupro 0.4-3mm
1.jpg00.jpg
The box also contained these handy instructions. TIR is guaranteed 0.04mm or less.:
2.jpg3.jpg
This was the problem. The leadscrew had seized, because it was stored a very long time with closed jaws.
4.jpg
Cleaned off the gunked up original oil, re-lubed with Superlube synthetic Tefon grease, its as new.
5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg
I thought you may be interested how such small chucks are made inside. It will be a perfect addition to my small Toyo drill press. When I come around to make the arbor, its a #0 JT. They still make this chuck, but slightly different sleeve design. But gee, its US$228 new: http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/87369419
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28th September 2014, 08:46 PM #29
A couple of questions for the Anorak Bob with the Waldown DP s if you would indulge me,please?
Question 1 Is the column hollow?
Question 2.On the one with the belt tensioner toggle arm, does the handle move within the swinging block ?
I really like the idea of a, rapid change of belt ability.
Question 3. Is there a mechanism for tensioning the the second set of belts?
The refurbish of the drill presses is magnificent. I would say it would have to be better than new from the factory.It is a wonderful argument for Old Iron as the yanks call it.
thanks for posting it.
Grahame
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28th September 2014, 09:17 PM #30.
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Hello Grahame,
Thank you for your kind words. I only wish I had the enthusiasm to refurbish a few more of my machines. I have to keep my piebald sky blue and green Hercus mill covered because I'm embarrassed about its appearance!
The columns are hollow - https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...61#post1376461
If you are asking about the intermediate pulley tensioner, the handle rotates with the block - https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...18#post1746218
The second set of belts ( intermediate to motor pulley ) is adjusted by moving the motor on its sliding mount pictured below. The mount slides on guides cast into the head and is locked with a 1/2" cap screw. Simple.
Bob.
3M.jpg
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