Thread: Not a DRO - An indicator instead.

Hi Bob,
Just a thought,
If your clamp is wide enough, could you do a stepped hole with the 3 sizes in the one clamp? This way it could be put away for use latter on if you have a stuck one.

Dave

Excellent suggestion Dave. Thank you.

Bob.

All my "stuck" styluses became unstuck by simply holding the the stylus between the aluminium keepers on my bench vice and carefully rotating the indicator. Of course, I don't possess the required M2.5 x 4.5 tap and die to make an extension. Found an Osborn tap in Sydney on Ebay and being keen to avoid postal delays from the States, decided to take my chances on a Czech CZ die from Bulgaria. Might sound obscure but I've purchased quite a few taps and dies from this seller. Bit of luck, it might roll up before I head off.

BT

BT you might like to try my man Georgi Zaharov in Ukraine also. He's got the inside track on that funky ex-USSR stuff as well as some German.

Grigor Q.

search George Zaharov on ebay. I 'd link it but I'm on my iPad

I had thought an indicator fitted with an extension that enabled the straddling on the travel stop would be a worthwhile improvement. The Mahr's plunger is a delicate 4mm in diameter and with a 50 mm extension affixed, the setup becomes precarious. Some form of protection was needed.

I made the half sleeve from 1045. I discovered that the 8mm hole I had bored in the original cast iron holder was skewed. It was not apparent without the extension in place. Could have caused me some dimensional grief down the track if I fitted a long travel indicator. I bored the 8mm hole out to 9.5 to suit my Mitutoyos and made a slit brass reduction sleeve to suit the Mahr and Compac indicators. I will make a new extension with the knurling outboard of the sleeve.

It's amazing how easy it is to find time consuming piddly little jobs that facilitate procrastination. I had intended to lay some bricks yesterday, now maybe tomorrow. Procrastination is easy, the bricklaying is required under the lounge wall.

BT

Hi BT,
Great work, looks like it came from the factory like that.

Why do you need to make a new extension?

"time consuming piddly little jobs" at least you finish yours.

Stuart

p.s. have you shown us the inside of the stop? I assume the Tee bolt has a hole through it.

No magic Stu





I will make a new extension because that one is a sloppy fit. I bought an adjustable 2.5mm die, made by Totem in England from a Ebay seller in Denmark this morning. Hopefully less slop and a more positive fit. I've realized after using these machines for a few years, that if something can turn to shi# when in use, it will.

BT

Thanks BT, keeping that one.

Stuart

Hi BT,

Beautiful work, I see what you mean by time consuming and fiddly... nice knurls... wish I could do knurls like that...

Regards
Ray

It's not difficult Ray.

I reckon good wheels are a prerequisite for a reasonable result.

The knurls are English, made by WDS and purchased from Blackwoods for about 30 dollars a pair maybe five years ago. You can find top quality American knurls on Ebay for a lot less.

The knurled items are 4140. The handle on my knurling tool provides sufficient leverage to bite into it. There is no way that the little Hercus could cope with the load involved in single wheel knurling.

BT

p.s. Another plug for a rear tool post. You can see what you are doing.

Originally Posted by Greg Q

Bob, Pete has been submerged in work lately, and if he's like me, in a deep funk of fear and loathing. (Not in Las Vegas )

Yep, I was still around, just crazy busy. Very nice work as per usual Bob. I like the reference to "Young" Pete, it was only when Greg made the comment that I realised you were probably referring to me

Where do you guys get the steel blackening materials here in Oz? Any idea of price? I typically just powder coat parts like this, but I guess that's not very traditional of me.

Pete

Hello Young Pete,

The details are here - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/bl...cookup-124959/ http://www.blackfast.com/distributor...ntry=Australia

There are times when powdercoating would be my prefered option. The durability of the coating certainly beats the sprayed finishes I've applied. Obviously, there are also times when chemical blackening is the most suitable finish as it does not result in dimensional change or alter the temper of the steel. The stainless button head screws didn't colour up well in the Blackfast solution so I resorted to heat and sump oil. My intention is to replace then with countersunk screws. I bought a long 90 degree spotting drill on UK Ebay yesterday to enable the countersinking of the holes.

BT

Thanks BT,

I Appreciate the tips.

I have started shopping on ebay for better knurls... Form Rol GKS128 Knurl 5/8" x 1/4" Straight Teeth | eBay

I should make a better tool holder and practice a bit..

Regards
Ray

Hi Ray,
I was taught to make the diameter to be knurled a multiple of the pitch of the knurls
Seems to work for me

Phil