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Thread: drying a motor

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wimmera Jack View Post
    40 degrees in Ballarat tomorrow Phil. Just clean her up and leave the sun do the rest while you are at work.

    Hooroo

    John.
    Great idea John. Actually, the way it's looking I could leave it out for a few days.

    Phil

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    I used mineral turps in my engine cleaning spray gun on my 10EE DC drive motor...
    Then a bit of metho on top of that....
    It not usually a problem on a hot dry day but would not recommend metho or any volatile liquid on cooler humid days for drying something with too may nooks and crannies. As the volatile liquid evaporates it can condense water out of the atmosphere and you can end up with more water than you started with.

  4. #18
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    Default cleaning motors

    Hi Phil
    Give it a final flush with HOT water and leave it in the sun to dry out.

    Roger

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    It not usually a problem on a hot dry day but would not recommend metho or any volatile liquid on cooler humid days for drying something with too may nooks and crannies. As the volatile liquid evaporates it can condense water out of the atmosphere and you can end up with more water than you started with.
    The other reason I'd avoid things like meths or other solvents is that it could remove or partly dissolve the lacquer that is already on the wire.

    Michael

  6. #20
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    Turps is ok... Isn't it??

    Phil

  7. #21
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    Yes Phil. Just take a litttle longer than petrol.

    Hooroo.

    John

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Turps is ok... Isn't it??

    Phil
    2$ cans of Aussie Export degreaser from supercheap are much better - the glycol esther doesn't attack paints/laquers nearly as much as even turps (I buy it in boxes of 12 cans at a time - I have one in the washup sink for washing my hands with if i'm greasy). Spray with degreaser, work with paint brush, rinse with water, dry.

  9. #23
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    Spot test by rubbing a little bit of cleaner you are going to use on the winding enamel, if its friendly then you are safe to proceed. I would use citrus based degreaser along with a paint brush to scrub clean. Then air dry with compressed air.

    The magnets in the motor(if there is) are sensitive to high heat. Do not bake higher than 80C.

  10. #24
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    Mmmmm another bulk-buyer of the all too handy cheap degreaser!

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by forp View Post
    Spot test by rubbing a little bit of cleaner you are going to use on the winding enamel,
    snip
    The magnets in the motor(if there is) are sensitive to high heat. Do not bake higher than 80C.
    like the spot test idea, and the multitude of approaches to drying.

    My contribution is minimise physical abrasion On windings when cleaning..... insulation needed for healthy motor.

    No permanent magnets in Phil's induction motor, but useful heat warning for dc motors.
    cheers
    David

    ------------------------------------------------
    A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they’ll never sit in. (Greek proverb)

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by HavinaGo View Post
    like the spot test idea, and the multitude of approaches to drying.

    My contribution is minimise physical abrasion On windings when cleaning..... insulation needed for healthy motor.

    No permanent magnets in Phil's induction motor, but useful heat warning for dc motors.
    Time to put a few myths to bed..

    The enamelled copper wire used on motor windings is not going to be damaged by high pressure water.. for that matter, I've never found a solvent that would dissolve that stuff, when you are tinning enamelled copper wire to make connections, the easiest way to get rid of the enamel is to burn it off, failing that, scraping with a sharp knife works as well.

    The varnish dip that's used after winding, is more to hold the windings in place, nicely bundled. That stuff is sometimes thermosetting, and could be softened by heating, but keep the temperature down while baking and should be no problem.

    There are no permanent magnets in an induction motor, as such it's not a problem, but just for completeness, you won't damage a magnet by heating unless you get above the curie temperature, which for typical magnets like alnico is over 700C, for Neodymium it's 300C or so and for iron its over 1000C which, by the way is a good test to remember for when you are heat-treating something, that is you heat till the iron becomes non-magnetic, that is a magnet won't stick, that way you know you are above the curie point then quench..

    While on the topic of magnets, you can damage magnets, in things like stepper motors, by removing the poles and, just removing the armature in a stepper motor can be a tricky business because of loss of magnetism in the permanent magnets.... another topic altogether.


    Ray

    PS.. Just thought of something that might be misleading, the connections inside the motor are not usually soft soldered, as might be implied by my reference to tinning, they are generally twisted and brazed.

  13. #27
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    Well I did what ya said
    Well sort of. What I thought was a container of Mineral turpentine was actually Kerosene.
    I made an executive decision and used that in the degreasing gun then immediately followed by degreaser also in the gun.
    Then rinsed and refilled the gun with water and rinsed it, twice.
    I then used compressed air to dry it out until the neighbour over the back complained about the noise from the compressor running.
    I sat it out in the sun for the next two hours. It's pretty damn hot here at the moment.
    I might even take it to work tomorrow and stick it on top of the boilers. It's even hotter up there .

    Phil
    DSCN1267.jpg DSCN1269.jpg

  14. #28
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    Hi Phil,

    Looks pretty good... today got to 43, same tomorrow.. no need for ovens.

    I sometimes forget to switch off power to the compressor, and with a slow leak, it cranks up at 3 in the morning... then it's my wife complaining, and I have to get up and switch it off.

    Ray

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi Phil,

    Looks pretty good... today got to 43, same tomorrow.. no need for ovens.

    I sometimes forget to switch off power to the compressor, and with a slow leak, it cranks up at 3 in the morning... then it's my wife complaining, and I have to get up and switch it off.

    Ray
    Yes. I am wondering why people are talking about ovens. Not much point at this point in time.

    I also leave the compressor on and guess who complains. I cannot complain too loud tho cos she often turns off the shed light when I forget.

    I would have suggested pressure cleaning, but then that is what I am doing at work at the moment. Last week, this week and the 3 or 4 weeks before the Xmas break. I have been working outside since coming back to work. In and around a tank farm. 175kl insulated tanks so lots of glare, but some shade at least. There are worse jobs than pressure cleaning in this weather. Today I took a small SS thermos with ice and water. I hung it inside an empty tank (most of them at the moment) and then noticed that the brine (chilling) was running on the tank across the aisle so swapped tanks. Now I have a 175,000 litre fridge to keep my water cold.

    Dean

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Time to put a few myths to bed..

    The enamelled copper wire used on motor windings is not going to be damaged by high pressure water.. for that matter, I've never found a solvent that would dissolve that stuff, when you are tinning enamelled copper wire to make connections, the easiest way to get rid of the enamel is to burn it off, failing that, scraping with a sharp knife works as well.

    The varnish dip that's used after winding, is more to hold the windings in place, nicely bundled. That stuff is sometimes thermosetting, and could be softened by heating, but keep the temperature down while baking and should be no problem.

    There are no permanent magnets in an induction motor, as such it's not a problem, but just for completeness, you won't damage a magnet by heating unless you get above the curie temperature, which for typical magnets like alnico is over 700C, for Neodymium it's 300C or so and for iron its over 1000C which, by the way is a good test to remember for when you are heat-treating something, that is you heat till the iron becomes non-magnetic, that is a magnet won't stick, that way you know you are above the curie point then quench..

    While on the topic of magnets, you can damage magnets, in things like stepper motors, by removing the poles and, just removing the armature in a stepper motor can be a tricky business because of loss of magnetism in the permanent magnets.... another topic altogether.


    Ray

    PS.. Just thought of something that might be misleading, the connections inside the motor are not usually soft soldered, as might be implied by my reference to tinning, they are generally twisted and brazed.
    Thanks for the corrections. always thought care was needed around the enamel but obviously tougher than I thought.

    Phil's clean up looks good.
    cheers
    David

    ------------------------------------------------
    A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they’ll never sit in. (Greek proverb)

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