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13th June 2013, 10:37 AM #1
Electrolysis - A Superior Cleaning Process
This is a link to what seems to me to be a very informed view on the process laid out in layman's terms. If it is superior I am not in a position to say…..have a read and be the judge.
Electrolysis Cleaning Method
It is interesting that he says the metal is still eroded or eaten away in this process and discusses the factors that increase and decrease the rate. A lot of people in favour of this process believe that it is non destructive, vs Vinegar, molasses and commercial products which are acidic. According to this it is also going to eat away at the item.
The discussion on Hydrogen embrittlement is also interesting.
Just remember that a crack that starts on the surface will act as a stress riser. In other words stress will concentrate at the crack. After a crack starts it will propagate.
Quotes from other sources on Hydrogen embrittlement.
standard hydrogen embrittlement relief cycle for high strength steel after plating operations (including reverse plating, like electrolysis) is bake at 375 F for 24 hours within 4 hours of plating. If you have an oven that big, have at it. BTW, the time and temp are critical. Too hot and you ruin the temper, too cold or not long enough and you wont drive off (enough) hydrogen.
I agree, would be much better off to bead/sand/shot blast to remove the rust. Shot blasting is the only one that will provide any benefit from a cracking standpoint.Rust leaves jagged pits in metal. These pits are surrounded by uncorroded metal. These pits themselves can act as stress concentrators, just like a nick or scratch. This is independent of any embrittlement resulting from the chemical changes adjunct to the corrosion.
From a 'planar' viewpoint, the plane which contains all of the rust pits, perhaps a few thousandths thick, is no longer contributing significant stiffness any more, since this plane of the metal is not continuous, but interrupted with pits.
Your best bet is to just carefully grind down past the pits and then re-finish to prevent future corrosion. Abrasive blasting will get the steel 'white' again, but cannot get the surface smooth and free of pits.
Here's a hot tip: DO NOT ever put springs into the electrolytic rust removal bath, or you will find out about "Things that go "snick!" in the night."
Hydrogen embrittlement. The electrolytic bath, and judging from your results the phosphoric acid bath also, infuses hydrogen into the steel. Deadly to springs under tension.
If the steel is a tool steel like high-carbon steel or an alloy steel, I gently bake the hydrogen out in the kitchen oven on 220 deg for 20 minutes after removing the item from the electrolytic bath. Not too hot or you'll draw the temper !
Others say they just leave the tool steel items out in the mid-day summer sun to bake off the hydrogen after electrolysis. This would probably work best in the sunbelt.
P.S. This is absolutely not necessary if the item is cast or wrought iron. Hydrogen embrittlement only happens to certain steels. (Not that you are likely to find anything made of true wrought iron that's less that 100 years old.)
It is all very interesting stuff!…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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13th June 2013 10:37 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th June 2013, 11:58 AM #2
Electrolysis is very interesting, i had 3 hand planes i wanted to de-rust but i didnt have a car battery charger to use. While i was looking for one i also came across this product
Evapo-Rust Australia Home Page
a solution that you soak the metal in over a day or two. Then the rust just washes away. Very effective stuff. I should de-rust another piece and post a WIP
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13th June 2013, 12:02 PM #3
Interested to see that WIP. What is the active ingredient in the product?
Evapo-Rust™ is the only chemistry in the world employing selective chelation for rust removal. Evapo-Rust™ is sewerable in neat form and works at a pH ranging from 6 delivered to 7 as a spent solution.
Light rust is removed in as little as 5 to 30 minutes. Medium rust up to 6 hours, and heavy rust takes up to 24 hours.
The chelator is too expensive to use large quantities in the finished product. An organic chemical that easily loses sulfur to form ferric sulfate was added to remove iron from the iron-chelator complex. This allows the chelator to remove more iron from iron oxide. The sulfur-bearing compound is much less expensive than the chelator and makes Evapo-Rust™ economical to use.Evapo-Rust™ has a chemical carrying capacity of 300grams of pure, dry rust per 5 litres.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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13th June 2013, 12:28 PM #4.
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The hydrogen embrittlement possibilities in ordinary home electrolysis is a complete phurphy.
Hydrogen embrittlement requires either very high temperatures or pressures or both, neither of which are happening in ordinary electrolysis.
The reason your callipers broke was almost certainly that there was already a small crack present and the electrolysis cleaned out the crack enabling it to propagate - this is a reasonable common event and for folks to blame hydrogen embrittlement.
The removal of metal is possible if;
- the wrong electrolyte is used - acids work great but they should not be used.
- electrolyte is left in the tank too long and exhausted
- nonferrous metals are being treated.clearly
- the article being treated is connected to the wrong electrode which may completely dissolve the metal item.
- High voltages and currents are used - in the eastlink article he recommends 24V which is WAY too high as this will generate too high a current which will in turn break may down the electrolyte into things that harm the metal and generate large volumes of hydrogen gas. He also reckons 4 A is too low whereas I reckon anything higher than 5 A is too high. Sure it takes longer at lower current but it is much safer to do this. I have left many things for two weeks under electrolysis and nothing has happened. All that happens (usually within a couple of days) is the anode gets covered in slime and the current stops flowing. High voltages and currents are also inherently dangerous since this greatly increases the likelihood of sparking which may ignite any hydrogen.
The guy on the eastlink article is not a chemist and some of what he has written attests to this (he also says he had to refer to a relative who is a chemist for advice) so I would treat anything he says with some degree of skepticism.
The reason he uses such large voltages and currents is because he is treating large objects and is finding it hard to get electrolysis happening all over the object. However, instead of increasing the voltage he should use more electrodes and space them equidistant around the and even inside the objects being treated.
Provided low currents <10A and preferably <5A are used, the solution is soft alkaline, and no nasty chemicals or metals are used the process is relatively safe to use on ferrous materials.
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13th June 2013, 03:43 PM #5Senior Member
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I've done this a few times very successfully but never really found an anode I was happy with... steel fouls very quickly so requires constant cleaning and apparently stainless will kill you. Anybody had success with any other materials?
For the power supply I use a modified computer power supply which is a good option because they are capable or quite high current at 12V and can generally be found for free.
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13th June 2013, 04:11 PM #6.
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Yep, carbon arc welder rods work well. Normally you can only buy a 20 pack of these so they can be expensive but if you know a really old school welder he will probably have a few laying around his shed that he no longer uses. They are also often coated withe copper which should be dissolved off otherwise the copper will end up on the cathode.
For the power supply I use a modified computer power supply which is a good option because they are capable or quite high current at 12V and can generally be found for free.
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13th June 2013, 04:17 PM #7
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13th June 2013, 05:34 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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I think you should nut n' bolt all your terminals to reduce the risk of this LiveLeak.com - Checking for a gas leak the right way
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13th June 2013, 05:58 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Depending on your power supply. Just put a jumper on the pins in this link.
Howto: Hotwire a PC power supply(you can use a switch if you like, I just used a bent wire.)
You will likely need a load on 5V line for the power supply to keep running, I just used a dead HDD, I replace it with a 220ohm(?) resistor.
If you felt it was worth the trouble you may also be able to dig out the trim pot to let you control the output V. I can just get mine up to 13.8V as I was using it to float a battery. It wont switch on set that high though.
Stuart
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13th June 2013, 08:15 PM #10Senior Member
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Re: Electrolysis - A Superior Cleaning Process
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13th June 2013, 08:52 PM #11.
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13th June 2013, 11:30 PM #12
They just had to be round legs too, didn't they.
I run off a 5a, 12v switchmode driver. Works well, takes a few days but will clean just about anything off. Although the lead may not be recommended imighttry a bit.....Will the waste water kill the out of control ivy at the back of the shed? The weak caustic/washing soda mix hasn't......
Cheers,
Ew1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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14th June 2013, 12:18 AM #13.
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No it won't affect plants that much.
Lead is a cumulative poison that affects mental health and IQ at low levels well before gums start receding and teeth and nails fall out, then it takes a lot more to cause internal bleeding and death. Did you know that when we were still using leaded petrol we were about 1/4 of the way along to the lead levels the ancient romans experienced and they were applying leaded salts as makeup and spreading lead acetate jelly on bread because it tasted sweet. The Swiss did some interesting research that showed that prisoners have higher levels of blood than the general population but then so do people from inner city suburbs. Inner city areas and 1960s suburb soils are seriously lead contaminated from the used of leaded paints and the fallout from leaded petrol. Fortunately the rain is not that acidic and current soil chemistry locks that lead in the top 50 cm or so of the soil. However, as we burn more coal and the atmosphere becomes more acidic the increasingly acidic rain will dissolve that lead and send it into the aquifers. This is one of many interesting environmental time bombs hanging over us.
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14th June 2013, 05:55 AM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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14th June 2013, 08:52 AM #15
I keep wondering about the green paint that is constantly flaking of my roof into the gutters and mostly removed by the filter before it gets to the rainwater tanks that provide all of our domestic water. I have a friend at work who is allways coming up with new disasters like lead etc. It can be scary. I don't believe everything he says but there is still alot of stuff that is going to bite us one day.
One thing that I keep thinking about is that our society is mining products that have been concentrated in small areas over millions of years and now we are slowly dispersing these products all over the surface of the planet. Homoginising so to speak. How much metal etc is laying on the sea floor?
Dean
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