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  1. #31
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    Just packing the car for tomorrow.

    Thanks Welder, I'll have a look. I'm not even sure yet what type of wheel I should get for my general purpose. If you happen to read this before I leave, do you know if the SG had ball bearing ways or all V? I'll plan to remove the table if it has balls.

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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  3. #32
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Hi Simon,
    A good all round wheel is a 38A 46J or K. 38A is the grit type, 46 the grit and J the hardness of the wheel, A is soft, Z is hard.

    If the wheels is too hard it will glaze and not break down meaning you have to dress more often. I think J is about right for most work.

    Removing the table can be a PITA, just shimming it up a few mm and then strapping it back down to the machine would be better. You have to make sure you undo the ram nuts first though. Also drop the head on the table with a bit off wood in between.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #33
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    Hi Simon,

    +1 for what Ewan said.

    I've been getting wheels from travers tool, http://www.travers.com/abrasives-fil...rinding-wheels

    Good luck with the move, Make sure the chains are tight!.. Check the tanks for coolant, and of course hydraulic oil that might splash out.

    Ray

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Simon,
    A good all round wheel is a 38A 46J or K. 38A is the grit type, 46 the grit and J the hardness of the wheel, A is soft, Z is hard.

    If the wheels is too hard it will glaze and not break down meaning you have to dress more often. I think J is about right for most work.

    Removing the table can be a PITA, just shimming it up a few mm and then strapping it back down to the machine would be better. You have to make sure you undo the ram nuts first though. Also drop the head on the table with a bit off wood in between.

    Ew
    Thanks Ueee, I had read that stuff about the wheel types on Nortons web site but through lack of experience could not work out which ones I may need for my use.

    I realise that the hydraulic ram will need to be removed. I assume it's a simple nut & bolt at each end but I really wouldn't know. I may take some small pieces of 5mm ply or similar, they may do the trick.

    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by RayG View Post
    Hi Simon,

    +1 for what Ewan said.

    I've been getting wheels from travers tool, http://www.travers.com/abrasives-fil...rinding-wheels

    Good luck with the move, Make sure the chains are tight!.. Check the tanks for coolant, and of course hydraulic oil that might splash out.

    Ray
    Thanks Ray. I've got quite a few heavy duty (1500Kg & 2000Kg) tie downs. I'll also take some 2x4" timber, screws and a cordless and fashion a frame on the floor of the trailer so that the base cannot slide. If the base cannot move then the only degree of freedom is to stop ANY possibility of it tipping with use of my numerous tie downs.

    I'm also taking a few empty 20L carboys which will be used to decant any liquids left in the tanks. Phil (steam whisperer) advised me about the grinding wheel resting on the table with a piece of timber so I'll look at that too, depending on whether I remove the table altogether. I've allowed the whole of Thursday to get it sorted before leaving for home Thursday arvo, so whatever I do, it won't be a rush or in a panic.

    Excited & nervous!
    Cheers,

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #36
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    On my machine its a pair of locking C nuts on each end of the ram. The just tighten up against the nuts on the other end of the table. It may pay to take some c spanners....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    advised me about the grinding wheel resting on the table with a piece of timber so I'll look at that too, depending on whether I remove the table altogether.
    Don't put a chock under the wheel it's self. All that weight would be being carried by the spindle. You want your block under the spindle housing, under the casting just behind the wheel.

    Regards Phil.

  9. #38
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    Simon I'm pretty sure it will have V ways, mine has and I just did the block of wood trick that Phil mentioned. I don't think you would lift the table off on your own
    and if ever you do use some form of lifting gear, it's much easier than two blokes.
    Will

  10. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    Don't put a chock under the wheel it's self. All that weight would be being carried by the spindle. You want your block under the spindle housing, under the casting just behind the wheel.

    Regards Phil.
    Thanks Phil I just had a moment of horror.
    Never under the wheel Simon. Place the block under the spindle housing. Phew.
    Best of luck with the move, sounds like you are well organised.

    Phil

  11. #40
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    Thanks guys. Well im here after a fun day of driving!

    This interstate driving business has fleas on it! Sydney changed a bit since I lived here 13 years ago. They got an M5 tunnel now!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  12. #41
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    I'm fairly sure that it got plain ways.
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  13. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by welder View Post
    I'm fairly sure that it got plain ways.
    The M5 tunnel or the grinder??

    Glad you made it up safe Simon, thats one hell of a drive! Melb to here was long enough on Monday.......

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  14. #43
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    Thanks Andre.

    I thought of you Ueee when I went past the turnoff. So close for a visit but so little time!

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #44
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    I would say the grinder EW.seeing as I am stuck eveytime I go near the M5 to cheap for the tunnel
    BETTER TO HAVE TOOLS YOU DON'T NEED THAN TO NEED TOOLS YOU DON'T HAVE

    Andre

  16. #45
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    Ew

    but you took a detour

    Ken

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