Thread: Elliot 8-18 Surface Grinder

Originally Posted by simonl

Anyone know what these are for?

got a picture of them the other way up?
Sure look like old style keyless drill chucks to me.(or at least the body of them)

Stuart

I'm thinking they might be some sort of wheel puller to crack the hub off the spindle taper. Is that thread anything like the thread on your wheel hubs or spindle? If they are what I think they are, they would normally have a jacking screw out of sight down the guts.

That Mimik hydraulic unit, may have belonged to the grinder, I can sort of remember them being used as a profile dressor for things like radius's and tapers.

You dont seem to have the work head slide with it.

Regards Phil.

Originally Posted by Machtool

I'm thinking they might be some sort of wheel puller to crack the hub off the spindle taper.

Well your idea sure makes a lot more sense

A wild guess, but locking collars for a balancing shaft?

Dean

Hi Phil, Stuart & Dean. I should have taken another pic of the end. There is a thread one end and some internal jaws. At first my uneducated, untrained eye thought they were a puller of some sort but my only question would be why do I need 2?

Simon

Originally Posted by welder

Well that sound like fun, the grays boys were helpful I thought you would get a free forklift for sure.
. When I picked up my 750 kg mill with a 6x4 I almost fillped the car. Atleast you have an adequate towing vehicle.

Hi Andre, been meaning to reply to your post. I would have been in a similar situation if I used a single axle trailer. Being a tandem, the weight is not simply pivoting over one axle. You must have had a tow ball weight of 75Kg (if the mill was loaded in correct spot) but if you had the mill a tad closer to your car, too far forward of the axle then your ball weight can easily blow out to way over 100Kg. That's a lot of weight at the rear most point of any car let alone a small car.

I choose a tandem for this reason. I rang a few places that had single axle trailers that said they were capable of the weight I was carrying but I didn't want to chance it. Any dead, concentrated weight over about 1/2 tonne I would use a tandem (unless it's very close to home). Different if you are carrying sand, soil or crushed rock where the weight is homogenous and evenly distributed from front to rear of the trailer and your ball weight reasonable works out to about 10% of the load purely because of the geometry of the axle and trailer.

Cheers,

Simon

Those bunnings trailers are good value, i have used them twice now. The only pain is they will not hire them out on the weekend.

WRT you possible pullers there, be very careful when putting a wheel on that you do not over tighten the bolt. Mine have the bolt captured with a steel ring pinned to the bolt. Lossen the bolt and back it out and it pulls the arbor off the taper. I have sheared several of the pins trying to get wheels off. In the end removing the wheel off the arbor and using a 3 arm puller had been the only way to get the arbor off the taper. Now i only just nip the wheel up lightly.....

Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

Those bunnings trailers are good value, i have used them twice now. The only pain is they will not hire them out on the weekend.

WRT you possible pullers there, be very careful when putting a wheel on that you do not over tighten the bolt. Mine have the bolt captured with a steel ring pinned to the bolt. Lossen the bolt and back it out and it pulls the arbor off the taper. I have sheared several of the pins trying to get wheels off. In the end removing the wheel off the arbor and using a 3 arm puller had been the only way to get the arbor off the taper. Now i only just nip the wheel up lightly.....

Ew

Thanks Ueee,

I have removed the wheel, it was held on with three cap screws however, the arbor is still on. I have no idea how to remove it yet and I'm not sure whether it's a common setup since it's my only ever sg. I will take a pic and post it to show. This thing is a whole new ball game to me. It seems quite complex and if I just willy nilly take stuff off without documenting then there is not a hope in hell I'll ever get it back together. I'm attempting to remove the cross ways as I want to give all the moving parts a good clean. The hydraulics are "attached everywhere" and the whole thing seems like it's typical english, you have to be a contortionist to get things apart!

Simon

Heres a pic of the arbor after removing the wheel

Cheers.

Simon

Originally Posted by simonl

Thanks Ueee,

I have removed the wheel, it was held on with three cap screws however, the arbor is still on. I have no idea how to remove it yet and I'm not sure whether it's a common setup since it's my only ever sg. I will take a pic and post it to show. This thing is a whole new ball game to me. It seems quite complex and if I just willy nilly take stuff off without documenting then there is not a hope in hell I'll ever get it back together. I'm attempting to remove the cross ways as I want to give all the moving parts a good clean. The hydraulics are "attached everywhere" and the whole thing seems like it's typical english, you have to be a contortionist to get things apart!

Simon

Hi Simon,

Take some pictures of the arbor... there should be some moveable weights in there somewhere for balancing ( usually 3 ) makes me wonder about the 3 cap screws ( )

The arbor assembly and wheel should go together onto a balancing rig.

Ray

Heres the exploded diagram.


Simon

Interestingly, The rack rack and pinion setup for the table is adjustable. Well adjustable to some extent. The bush that houses the needle bearing for the shaft of the pinion is eccentric. Rotating the eccentric bush effectively moves the closer or further away from it's meshing rack. The rack under the table is bolted on with ground spacers. I assume that if the ways are ever re-ground or scraped, the rack and pinion meshing clearance can be adjusted by either grinding the spacers or rotating the eccentric bush. I would have thought either one or the other would be sufficient, how much wear can a machine sustain before it's a throwaway?

Funny, the wife came out to the shed today and asked to look at my latest "pride and joy" and I showed her. She asked if i was happy with it and I said I dunno… yet. Ask me in another couple a months!

Simon

Simon,
it doesn't look like your drawing is anything like your actual arbour. I believe the round nut in the centre with two pin holes and LH thread arrow is what's holding the arbour on the spindle taper. No clear in the photo is if there is an inside thread in the arbour aroudn the outside of that nut. If there is, then a puller screws into that and a pointed end screw pushes the arbour off the the taper when you tighten it. You may have to make one of those on your lathe....
The three weights Ray mentioned are shown in the diagram and would be on the back of the arbour.

I had an Elliott 618 which I resurrected from a basket case, it turned out to be a very nice grinder but I left it with a friend when I moved from Perth.

The wheel hub on yours is a bit different from the 618 but the fixing to the spindle could be the same. Is there an internal thread in the body of the hub? On the 618, when the securing nut (the one for the 2 pin spanner, LH thread) was removed, I made an extractor with an external thread to match the hub thread then a pointed bolt to engage the centre on the spindle shaft. Perhaps you could do the same?

Peter