Thread: Extended Cross Slide Casting for Hercus

Nice work Peter. And thanks for posting the photos Ben.

Bob.

Well done Ben and Pete!

Looks great. The set screws that adjust the gibb (along the slide) has lead me to a question. Why do some slides have set screws on the gibb and some have none. My lathe does not have any. Which is better? I assume that your gibb strip is tapered?

Thanks for posting!

Simon

The Gib on the 9"/10" Hercus,Southbend,Sheraton etc are parallel.

Cant give a reason for this other than the amount of extra material that would be required for a tapered Gib.

As too which would be preferred I may have a tendency to go for a parallel Gib if there was sufficient room to be able to set the gap with feelers, unfortunately on these model/type of machines it is very hard if at all possibly,adjust is usually done by trial.

The tapered Gib adjusted with push me pull me screws is probably easier/quicker to adjust,although if there is a bruise or similar on the Gib it can be much harder as there will normally be loose/tight spots.

I didn't like the tapered gib strip on my Taiwan lathe's cross slide. It had the push-pull adjustment by way of a single screw. Its flat head engaged in a slot in the strip.
It worked well for a while but then wear developed in the slot, and it then had play, making movement alternatively too loose in one direction and too stiff in the other.
A different arrangement with two adjusting screws would have been better - one at each end, and not sensitive to wear. Or, if it were made to a better standard from good materials...

Jordan

Love your work fellas. For those who don't have the time, skills or equipment to make their own (i.e me), this bloke in England has T slotted cross-slides for about $400 airmailed to Oz. New stock expected in Jan 2013.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/boxfordtslottedcrossslide/

I have one of those. That's a good thing about Hercus lathes - parts made for Boxfords and South Bends fit straight on.
This one works on both my 9 inch and 260 Hercuses.
A difference from the SB type that Ben has is an extra T-slot in front of the topslide. The extral length restricts movement before it bumps the dial hardware on retraction, and limits the maximum swing. It also means that, if you follow Pipeclay's good advice on machining clearance for the dial, you could make a hole under the T-slot. I've been thinking of removing it on mine.
Instead of the usual engraving directly onto the slide, it has a degree wheel made of Laminex. It was supplied loose, so can be glued in place as accurately as you like.
I wasn't too impressed with it at first, but some years of regular use later it still looks new, and is much easier to read so can't complain.

Jordan

Good job well done Ben and Pete.

Not having seen a hercus lathe i have to ask, how does the compound get held down onto the cross slide? I'm guessing the 2 hard points and dowels lock onto the spigot, but is the spigot tapered or something to ensure it is pulled down?

Nice work guys (As usual Pipeclay)
That engraving looks nice what did they charge you for that Ben? Also where does one offs like that without charging like a wounded bull?

Pipeclay, How are you finding the HM52? I have been happy with mine after the few tweaks I told you about and have posted here.

Enjoy the rest of you day

Dave

Originally Posted by pipeclay

The Gib on the 9"/10" Hercus,Southbend,Sheraton etc are parallel.

Cant give a reason for this other than the amount of extra material that would be required for a tapered Gib.

As too which would be preferred I may have a tendency to go for a parallel Gib if there was sufficient room to be able to set the gap with feelers, unfortunately on these model/type of machines it is very hard if at all possibly,adjust is usually done by trial.

The tapered Gib adjusted with push me pull me screws is probably easier/quicker to adjust,although if there is a bruise or similar on the Gib it can be much harder as there will normally be loose/tight spots.

Thanks Pipeclay,

That explains it!

Simon

Originally Posted by Ueee

Good job well done Ben and Pete.

Not having seen a hercus lathe i have to ask, how does the compound get held down onto the cross slide? I'm guessing the 2 hard points and dowels lock onto the spigot, but is the spigot tapered or something to ensure it is pulled down?

There is a Spigot on the base of the Compound,around 1/2" in length,1 3/8" dia,there is a 30 degree taper starting about 1/8" up from the bottom of the spigot for a length of about 1/4".

Surprisingly for such a simple method it is very effective,I have never had the Compound move whilst being used.

The only great down fall would be when setting exact angles,with years of use the clearances in the bore and on the taper increase slightly and you have to be mindful as you tighten the screws,it does have a tendency to move off the set taper if your not careful I have also noticed this will occur with Compounds that are clamped with bolts/Tee nuts but not that common.

Originally Posted by Dave J

Nice work guys (As usual Pipeclay)
That engraving looks nice what did they charge you for that Ben? Also where does one offs like that without charging like a wounded bull?

Pipeclay, How are you finding the HM52? I have been happy with mine after the few tweaks I told you about and have posted here.

Enjoy the rest of you day

Dave

Dave I find it quite good for what it is.

At present it has done all that I need.

I still prefer to use the HM36 for most of my gear cutting,mainly due to the lower RPM,have cut a couple of gears on the 52 but not on the Horizontal as yet.

Haven't performed any of the modifications yet.

One thing that is annoying is the position of the locking thumb screw on the fine down-feed dial,I just need to take it off and re-drill and tap a hole 90 degrees further around,at the moment it is very close to the head,was yours similar.

If your asking about the Cost of the casting Ben bought them from the USA,I think the price he paid was good.

Originally Posted by nadroj

A difference from the SB type that Ben has is an extra T-slot in front of the topslide. The extral length restricts movement before it bumps the dial hardware on retraction, and limits the maximum swing. It also means that, if you follow Pipeclay's good advice on machining clearance for the dial, you could make a hole under the T-slot. I've been thinking of removing it on mine.

That's good info Jordan. I'm already finding the cross-slide travel limiting when using the Hercus milling attachment. This accessory would only make it worse.

Anyone got any tips on how I would machine out the clearance for the dial on my 260 (I don't own a mill)?. Would it be feasible to bolt the cross-slide to the pedestal drill table and rotate the table 90 degrees, then use a milling cutter in the drill?

Chris

If you have an XY table on your drill it may be do-able.

Dont know about using the mill cutter in your drill,may be possible with an adjustable fly cutter.

Could use the lathe if you have either an original Cross Slide or are able to pack the Cross Slide up on the carriage (you would need a method to be able to clamp it in place this way).

The 1st method would require an extended spigot for the Compound mount long enough to pass through the Cross Slide,it would also require a threaded hole in the end of the extension so you can clamp the Cross Slide.

Then mount an adjustable Fly cutter in your lathe chuck or collet chuck,the radius of the undercut needs to around 1 3/8",and to the length you desire.

Originally Posted by jack620

That's good info Jordan. I'm already finding the cross-slide travel limiting when using the Hercus milling attachment. This accessory would only make it worse.

Anyone got any tips on how I would machine out the clearance for the dial on my 260 (I don't own a mill)?. Would it be feasible to bolt the cross-slide to the pedestal drill table and rotate the table 90 degrees, then use a milling cutter in the drill?

Chris

Chris,

Quill radial play causes chatter when attempting to use a drill press as a mill. In my experience, a quick route to disaster. My drills are too worn. If your drill has a pinch bolt that enables the locking of the quill, you might be able to nip it up to remove the play at the price of stiff travel. Try your luck with a test piece before venturing down this risky path.

I'll have a look at my cross slide this morning. It too smacks into the dial but then I don't often use the milling attachment so I don't find this a great inconvenience. There might be a way of clamping the extended slide onto the cross slide to facilitate milling the dial recess. I'll report back.

BT