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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    3,925

    Default

    Here's a crew-in tang at arc euro trade:

    Drill Chuck Arbors - Arc Euro Trade
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    ringwood vic
    Posts
    251

    Default

    G'Day Fellas,
    Most live centres have a sealing screw in the end, replacing it with a short cap screw overcomes the ejection problem.
    Regards,
    Martin

  4. #18
    Dave J Guest

    Default

    I found this one on ebay from RDG
    LONG NOSE 2MT REVOLVING LATHE CENTRE MYFORD LATHE | eBay

    Dave

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    My latest cunning plan fell through -
    I had the idea that it may have been possible to buy a spare tip from Piper and change the tip in my U302 live centre, turning it into the extended nose version. Talking to them on the phone it appears that would not work because they use different bearings to cope with the load being "further out".
    It's a pity I haven't got a centre grinding capacity, as given the price difference between a live centre with standard tip and the extended version, disassembling and regrinding (or making from new) would be a relatively cheap way around the problem. Regrinding an existing tip would even get around the increased load issue that concerned the Piper guys. Given that this is for home use and is lightly loaded, a reshaped standard tip to give better clearance for 1/2" carbide holders would be all that was needed.
    The screw-in tangs and for that matter the screws that have been suggested may solve my ejection problem (stop sniggering you in the back row!). However, I would need to tap the back of the taper as it's centre drilled and not a thread. This will then depend on whether the taper is hardened or not.

    Michael

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    3,566

    Default

    How much is the distance between the ejector and the tool taper,if possable put something in the bore to lengthen the ejector for tool removal.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Lower Lakes SA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    2,557

    Default

    ... Or tap the end of the leadscrew to take a cap head. It is the end of the screw that does the bumping right? Would mean sacrificing the centre...

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    3,149

    Default

    The end of the lead screw does the bumping, but if I add a screw to the end, it means all the other things that do have tangs (drill bits for example) will then require the tail stock to be (say) 10mm further out.
    I guess another option is very carefully TIG a steel block onto the back of the taper to act as a tang. I have a few second hand drill bits that need to be repaired that way before I can use them, so one more for the list...

    Michael

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney
    Age
    64
    Posts
    3,566

    Default

    Put a ball bearing or piece of brass,etc in the tailstock and push it out.

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