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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Newcastle NSW
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    Default how to fabricate old table saw mitre slot inserts?

    Hi all,

    After a bit of advice if possible. Straight up let me say my knowledge of working with metal is very low, so I apologise if this comes off as a stupid question, please be gentle.

    I have been restoring an old English table saw (https://www.woodworkforums.com/f163/s...ration-157563/) and I have reached a point that I need to make some table inserts for the mitre slots, and more importantly a shorter, say 500mm section to add to the base of a mitre guage. You can't buy them (as this is a 1955 saw, and the mitre slots are now square, not dovetailed).

    I have worked out that a piece of 40mm x 8mm flat bar will do the trick, but the problem is getting the 30 degree angle cut, basically the picture below is what I need, with the final base width being 1 1/2" (it would have been imperial back then).

    dovetail2.jpg

    I have asked around (started at metal supply place, and then metal fabrication shops), but the suggestions seem to be milling, but they stop when I mention I need the long ones to be about 1100mm long, although to be honest, I get the feeling that the guys I am talking to have more important jobs to complete, and they are not interested in such a small job.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on a place say Newcastle to Sydney who could and would tackle the job, what I might expect to pay, or suggestions on how I could achieve it at home, although my metal working tools consist of a 125mm grinder, 8" bench grinder (10" in the process of being restored), metal cutting disk chop saw, arc welder and metal files (so not a well equipped workshop for metal).

    Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Camo

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,794

    Default

    I don't see why you need to use such a long piece of dovetail when here is so little upward force on mitre slide or other holders.

    At most a couple of pieces of dovetail about 1/2" long attached strategically along a rectangular section of slider bar is all that is needed.

    Most mitre slides that use a T-slot only uses a washer that fits widthwise into the slot and the rest of the slider is just rectangular.

    You could do the same and just lightly grind, emery cloth and even polish the necessary shape onto the side of a big washer or other suitable piece of metal.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
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    3,149

    Default

    The way that I would do that on a smaller mill is to make up a jig to hold the flat at 60 degrees and then just mill small lengths at a time (that is, mill a section, wind the cutter back, index the material along and repeat). You might have better luck finding someone to do the job if you explained that you can take out any small steps with a file if they needed to do it in smaller sections as if someone approached me with a request like that I would be wary as I would think they wanted it all done in one long length.

    Michael

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
    Posts
    775

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I don't see why you need to use such a long piece of dovetail when here is so little upward force on mitre slide or other holders.
    Umm....I guess it's just because that is how it originally came, thanks for helping me look outside the square. I think I will look at doing that for the table inserts, I would still like the section for the mitre gauge to be one complete dovetail, as this allows me to draw the mitre back past the table, so your suggestion takes out the issue of it needing to be so long, which is what seems to have been the problem.

    Thanks,

    Camo

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