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Thread: Fixable crack?
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28th May 2013, 12:56 PM #1
Fixable crack?
This is from my (wood) bandsaw.
Any suggestions on how I can fix this (if it's even possible) so that when the bolt is tightened to the post it doesn't open up and flex? It's made of cast bird cack so I'm not sure if I can get onto it with a propane torch and solder (or electric) or should try to make a metal strap/plate that I could tap and screw on around the bolt hole.
The crack only opens up when the bolt is tightened and whatever fix I apply would only be a short term one (and I rarely use the saw anyway) as I want to replace the whole guide assemblies with something better.
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28th May 2013, 01:04 PM #2Distracted Member
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Something easy to try would be - after sucking up to someone with a lathe - turn up a sleeve to press over the bolt boss. More like a ring I guess. It would want a heavy wall and a firm fit.
Beyond that, I'd saw the whole collar off and make a new one to bolt to the upright.
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28th May 2013, 01:13 PM #3
You could drill a hole (or cut a slot) through the flat, vertical section of the guide and thread a hose clamp through. Tighten the hose clamp on the collar and see if it is enough to stop it moving.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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28th May 2013, 01:22 PM #4Dave J Guest
For a quick fix, you could drill out a short piece of pipe to go over the part around the bolt. A nice tap on fit without the bolt in and clamped closed would be the best.
Dave
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28th May 2013, 02:38 PM #5
Bah. The piece has had it. Before I started I realised that I'd left the thing tightened on the post for too long originally and the crack didn't close any more when the bolt was removed.
I tried Bryan's and Dave's similar suggestions by drilling out a large nut to fit over the..."boss" is it?...and got a good tight fit with a little filing and easing it on in a vice (with a filler post in so I didn't deform it)
But when I put on it back on the saw I found that the crack has gone both through and around the boss on one side and tightening the bolt just peels the whole thing away from the post.
Was worth a shot.
I'll see what I've got lying around to give Bryan's other suggestion of making a new collar a go but it looks like I'll have to bump buying a new guide assembly up a list a bit.
*grumble* *mutter* *bloody broken tools* *whinge* *moan* *stupid Carter guides are worth more than the saw* *pout* *sook*
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28th May 2013, 03:59 PM #6.
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Red Shirt,
Carba-Tec in Perth had some old stock spare parts for the chintzy 30 year old 14" bandsaw that I have wasting space in the shed. The parts, which turned out to be an improvement on the original spongy castings, weren't stiffly priced.
You could wire them a photo and some dimensions. Could save you some mucking around.
Bob.
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28th May 2013, 04:06 PM #7
It shouldn't be too hard to make up a new piece if the vertical plate the round boss is part of is just a vertical rectangle shape. I have a similar repair to do to a meat saw. I have to make up the complete unit for both top and bottom guides including square sockets for the blade guide blocks.
Dean
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28th May 2013, 10:29 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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28th May 2013, 11:02 PM #9Member
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Daryl's Two Bobs Worth
G'day Red,
Here is the concept of what I would do with just basic resources. To improve the clamping effect on the (S**t Metal) alloy support, braze 1 x M8 nut on the fixed flange side to take the tightening of the M8 socket head screw.
In the spirit of NOT BUYING another one - which will still break anyway, why not opt for the stronger solution - although the next 'weak spot' may rear it's head somewhere else!!
Regards Daryl
* The only reason Mfrs make things is so that we can improve them
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29th May 2013, 01:33 AM #10
Thanks Kryn. That's awfully generous. If my next attempt doesn't look like it's going to work I may just take you up on the offer.
Daryl: That's pretty close to what I was thinking of doing...but better in the way to tighten it to the post and hold it on the vertical. Thanks for the drawing effort.
I didn't get to it today so I'll have a ferret around tomorrow and see if I can dig up a bit of suitable pipe or something I can bend to make one.
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29th May 2013, 09:13 PM #11
I dug out a bit of gal pipe today that was slightly larger than the post, split it, gave it a blast with fire™ and bent it tightly around the post. Then welded on a couple of flat bits for clamping on the vertical and have been drilling and tapping some holes for it.
It looks like I need to extend one of the flats so I can get another bolt in to stop it rocking around. It's a small area to work in and I thought the way I'd done the bolts would be enough (one all the way through and another below it only screwing into the vertical piece).
It's gotten a bit late to be making grinding noises outside so hopefully tomorrow night I'll show the results...which will either be a functioning post clamp or a pile of shattered muck
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29th May 2013, 10:34 PM #12
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30th May 2013, 11:02 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
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31st May 2013, 04:55 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Looks like a good solution. If it were me it have the front bolted ridgedly and split the back. Weld on a couple of tabs like you did the front and put a nut and clamping bolt back there.
Pete
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31st May 2013, 05:47 PM #15
All done. Well, mostly. It's mucky and how to secure the blade guard needs a bit of work, and if I had bothered to think about how to do it properly in the first place I'd have done it a bit differently, but this should do for the moment.
I shaped and welded a nut to make a boss for one of the bolts because the head was hitting the pipe and wouldn't clamp down enough. Swapped a few other bolts around so they dodged each other's heads and gave it a quick spray of paint to keep the rust at bay.
I haven't run the saw with it yet, but everything's solid so it should last until I can get some better guides.
Thanks for all the suggestions y'allEvery time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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