Thread: fly cutter tool shape

Generally in a workshop enviroment maybe 30 mins.
In a home workshop you could get a long while,depends on too many things.

Originally Posted by morrisman

Not that deep a cut , probably about 2mm or a bit less .
.

Hi Mike,

If it's just finish you are after. Try dropping the speed to 900 and decreasing the DOC to 0.1 mm slowest feed you can set, and keep the coolant up to it.

If you still aren't getting a good finish, and you don't want to waste inserts, try taking them all out except one, and on that one insert, carefully hone the edge, but don't change the relief angle or nose radius, just touch up lightly on a diamond wheel if you have one, or a silicon carbide wheel will do as well.

Either that or put in new inserts.

Regards
Ray

Your choice for answer here.
I would take the smaller cut on the finish,probably run at top speed or next down with a feed of around 40 to 60 mm/min,I wouldnt be running coolant,this is only for your face cutter not the fly cutter.

Ok on the info

I am thinking I am really pushing uphill with the present setup . The noise from the motor and or gearbox is a problem, and there are little bang noises going on in there somewhere. The motor is out of balance . A normal single phase motor should run relatively quietly, this thing sounds like it has shot bearings or similar .

I might try recording it and posting a wav. file here .

Mike

The geared drive mills are noisy when running even if not under load.
Noise seems to be more pronounced when running at high speeds with a reasonable cut,more so if it is an interupted cut rather than continuos.
The type of cutter being used can also influence the noise generated (tipped).
If End mills or Slot drills are used gearbox noise is usually minor.

the finish using the face mill with 5 tips

Sort of OK but not perfect .

MIKE

Looks pretty good to me.
Just a tip, I see you only have milling lines one way instead of a criss cross pattern, meaning you tram is out ever so slightly, so the surface would be slightly concave. When you get milling lines both front and back you know your tram is spot on.
Saying that I always find I will get them with the table moving one direction, but less the other way, so it's also the pressure on the cutter, quill, quill bearings, head etc, etc as well.

Still looks good as far as surface finish. Some people have it out of tram slightly to have only one set of lines on there job.

Dave

Originally Posted by Dave J

Looks pretty good to me.
Just a tip, I see you only have milling lines one way instead of a criss cross pattern, meaning you tram is out ever so slightly, so the surface would be slightly concave. When you get milling lines both front and back you know your tram is spot on.
Saying that I always find I will get them with the table moving one direction, but less the other way, so it's also the pressure on the cutter, quill, quill bearings, head etc, etc as well.

Still looks good as far as surface finish. Some people have it out of tram slightly to have only one set of lines on there job.

Dave

Hi Dave


Yes and OK on the tramming

When I first got the machine running , the tramming was terrible ( despite what the the worthless bit of paper with the inspectors report in it said ) . It was cutting a 5 thou deep cut on the back of the face mill as it traversed along . I have adjusted it and also levelled the table with a spirit level, but not to the same degree as a precision level would do it .

It's much better now , but probably out by half a thou still. I used the dial and ran it over the table , it seems close enough for me ..

thanks for the advice

Mike

Hi Mike,Please don't take that as any criticism as it was not meant to be. It doesn't matter about the table being level other than setting up jobs on the table using a level, but it's just the tram you have to worry about.Like I said it would only be a slight concave, but on some jobs it might be an issue.It's a pain doing the tramming, but once you have done it a few hundred times it will become easier and quicker. You will also find out what locking bolts will move the head a curtain way when you tighten them. and then use them to your advantage.I always leave the indicator touching the table on one side and watch it as I do up the head bolts, you can get it pretty spot on that way knowing where you are.Some Chinese mills have slop where the head pivots, so you also get an up and down movement when doing it up. This makes tramming even harder, and is something you could check if ever you take the head off.Dave
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